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KevinMc
Joined: 10 Sep 2023
Posts: 22
City/Region: Venice
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2006
C-Dory Model: 23 Venture
Vessel Name: Sea~Dory~Able
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 Posted: Sat Jun 22, 2024 4:39 pm Post subject: Solar panels mounting |
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| Has anyone mounted solar panels on their cabin top, I am thinking about two rigid panels attached to the s/s,fore/aft hand rail. Seems better than drilling holes in the roof,any suggestions would be appreciated. |
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Marco Flamingo
Joined: 09 Jul 2015
Posts: 1163
City/Region: Seattle
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2004
C-Dory Model: 16 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Limpet
Photos: Limpet
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Avidmagnum12
Joined: 23 Mar 2013
Posts: 717
City/Region: Ocklawaha
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2011
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-Otter
Photos: C-Otter
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| Posted: Sat Jun 22, 2024 7:16 pm Post subject: |
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You can keep the usefulness of your railings and still mount solar panels. I used 7/8 inch motorcycle handlebar risers to clamp on the railings. Then attached aluminum L brackets across each pair of risers. Then bolt Solar panel to the L brackets.
You can always change panels easily. If you drill mount thru top and the panel breaks you may not find the same size panel and have to drill new holes.
I have a 250 watt panel on my 25 and it’s been great. Still have room for radar and a place to tie extra gear on top.
_________________
Tom and Joyce Schulke
2011 CD 25 "C-Otter" 07/2015 to present
2011 CD 25 "My Girl" 06/2015 renamed C-Otter
2004 CD 22 Commuter "Out2C" 03/10 to 06/15 |
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localboy
Joined: 30 Sep 2006
Posts: 4673
City/Region: Lake Stevens via Honolulu
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: 'Au Kai (Ocean Traveler)
Photos: 'AU KAI
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| Posted: Tue Jun 25, 2024 5:45 pm Post subject: |
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I took my a different route. 110w semi flexible panel held to the top with 6 simple nylon web straps that go around the grab handles (with snaps) Takes 2 minutes to remove the panel and store it standing in the head when not needed.
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"We can go over there...behind the 'little one'....."
Wife to her husband pointing @ us...from the bow of their 50-footer; Prideaux Haven 2013 |
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thataway
Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 21354
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
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| Posted: Wed Jun 26, 2024 10:35 am Post subject: |
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| localboy wrote: | | I took my a different route. 110w semi flexible panel held to the top with 6 simple nylon web straps that go around the grab handles (with snaps) Takes 2 minutes to remove the panel and store it standing in the head when not needed. |
Were the flexible panels held against the roof, or was there air circulation under the panels?
_________________
Bob Austin
Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
Caracal 18 140 Suzuki 2007 to present
Thataway TomCat 255 150 Suzukis June 2006 thru August 2011
C Pelican; 1992, 22 Cruiser, 2002 thru 2006
Frequent Sea; 2003 C D 25, 2007 thru 2009
KA6PKB
Home port: Pensacola FL |
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localboy
Joined: 30 Sep 2006
Posts: 4673
City/Region: Lake Stevens via Honolulu
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: 'Au Kai (Ocean Traveler)
Photos: 'AU KAI
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| Posted: Wed Jun 26, 2024 11:00 am Post subject: |
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| I used a section of clear green house panel under the solar panel. About a 1/4” of space for air circulation. |
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robhwa
Joined: 04 Dec 2013
Posts: 295
City/Region: Anderson Island
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2003
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Marcia C
Photos: Problemadela
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DayBreak
Joined: 16 Jul 2017
Posts: 1012
City/Region: Monmouth, Or.
State or Province: OR
C-Dory Year: 2018
C-Dory Model: 23 Venture
Vessel Name: DayBreak
Photos: DayBreak
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| Posted: Thu Jun 27, 2024 4:46 pm Post subject: |
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As I read this post, I am getting the hint that there is a need for air space under a solar panel for a cooling factor. We are using a Renogy 100w flexible panel and it has been trouble free for six years. The controller shows power at about 18 to 19 volts in full sun. We simply lay it on the roof and it works well without spacers placed under the panel. Is this because a C-Dory roof is not exactly flat that it performs well for us? I love this panel because when not in use, it stores easily on the port side under the settee. Any thoughts for the need of spacers in our current use would be appreciated.
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Gary F
DayBreak, 23 Venture, 2018 - present |
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colbysmith
Joined: 02 Oct 2011
Posts: 4916
City/Region: Madison
State or Province: WI
C-Dory Year: 2009
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-Traveler
Photos: C-Traveler and Midnight-Flyer
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gulfcoast john
Joined: 14 Dec 2012
Posts: 1040
City/Region: PENSACOLA
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2010
C-Dory Model: 255 Tomcat
Vessel Name: Cat O' Mine
Photos: CAT O' MINE
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| Posted: Thu Jun 27, 2024 9:18 pm Post subject: |
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If you want the cheapest, fastest, easiest 100w panel solution that extends your anchoring out nights from one to two without starting the engines:
Renogy 100w semi-flexible panel ($149 with free Home Depot shipping before 10% military discount and 5 year Renogy warranty)
Victron MPPT controller
Blue Seas 15A breaker
20ft Ancor 10g tinned DC cable
½ sheet Home Depot “plastic cardboard” corrugated PVC rec’d by Renogy for insulation
1 tube Gorilla Structural Adhesive (not Renogy’s rec’d)
Clean and alcohol wipe roof area
Slap adhesive on the roof and place plastic cardboard
Slap adhesive on the cardboard and place Renogy panel on it over curved section, aft to the end of roof to minimize radar and Coleman AC shadowing
Replace solid copper Renogy wiring cables with Ancor tinned stranded 10g cable, which bends MUCH easier and is Code approved for use on boats
Install Controller and Breaker (a 100w panel will generate enough DC power to arc when disconnecting
Cover panel with a towel before installing the breaker to prevent arcing
If no other DC ‘eaters’ are on, this panel will pretty much prevent much DC discharge if a std mini fridge is on and the panel is not in the shade on your route while trailering. Monitor your DC monitor to keep up with that
Hope this is helpful. PM me with any questions. We are on an AICW Loop Segment so Verizon and wifi may be limited.
John
_________________
John and Eileen Highsmith
2010 Tom Cat 255, Cat O' Mine
Yamaha F150, LXF150 |
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robhwa
Joined: 04 Dec 2013
Posts: 295
City/Region: Anderson Island
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2003
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Marcia C
Photos: Problemadela
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| Posted: Fri Jun 28, 2024 1:03 am Post subject: |
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| DayBreak wrote: | | As I read this post, I am getting the hint that there is a need for air space under a solar panel for a cooling factor. We are using a Renogy 100w flexible panel and it has been trouble free for six years. The controller shows power at about 18 to 19 volts in full sun. We simply lay it on the roof and it works well without spacers placed under the panel. Is this because a C-Dory roof is not exactly flat that it performs well for us? I love this panel because when not in use, it stores easily on the port side under the settee. Any thoughts for the need of spacers in our current use would be appreciated. |
in the PNW, you don't necessarily need spacers, but they can improve the performance of your panels. I have Renogy 175's on my boat and campers (I have a 4 wheel and an Alaskan). There is one potential problem (damage from heat) and another definite problem. When any electrical system heats up, electrical resistance increases, and by ohms law, current decreases. Given a certain amount of electrical potential, voltage from the sun's energy, current will be reduced as the panels heat up. If you monitor production, you'll find that they produce more power when cool. People with panels often see that electrical production is higher in the morning before things heat up. Allowing air flow helps keep the panels a bit cooler and more efficient, particularly when it is very hot with direct sun. My campers have aluminum roofs which conduct some heat away, the C-Dory's roof is fiberglass, which is an excellent insulator, and doesn't conduct heat away very well. I've tested equivalent systems with and without spacers on an asphalt roof, and get better production with the spacers. Disclaimer....results will vary!!! |
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thataway
Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 21354
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
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| Posted: Fri Jun 28, 2024 10:52 am Post subject: |
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A couple of comments: I agree with rohhwa. An air space will increase output by small amounts, but also the panels will last longer.
We determined at Lake Powell (high ambient temperatures, 3700 feet elevation and most days intense sunshine) that about 200 watt solar panels are necessary to support each chest type refrigerator or freezer. Of course the freezer required more power. We also added insulation about the sides and top of our refrigerator and freezers.
In the PNW the temperatures are considerably lower, and there is less sunshine. I am not certain where the trade off is, but my impression is that in most climates, around 200 watt solar panels are needed. |
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robhwa
Joined: 04 Dec 2013
Posts: 295
City/Region: Anderson Island
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2003
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Marcia C
Photos: Problemadela
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| Posted: Fri Jun 28, 2024 1:03 pm Post subject: |
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| thataway wrote: | A couple of comments: I agree with rohhwa. An air space will increase output by small amounts, but also the panels will last longer.
We determined at Lake Powell (high ambient temperatures, 3700 feet elevation and most days intense sunshine) that about 200 watt solar panels are necessary to support each chest type refrigerator or freezer. Of course the freezer required more power. We also added insulation about the sides and top of our refrigerator and freezers.
In the PNW the temperatures are considerably lower, and there is less sunshine. I am not certain where the trade off is, but my impression is that in most climates, around 200 watt solar panels are needed. |
Wow, I will consider an agreement from Bob to be a sign that I am doing something right. My 3 flexible Renogy 175 watt panels are now 4 years old, and starting to show their age. I haven't tested, but productivity is clearly dropping off on the one mounted to the 4 Wheel camper, which doesn't have spacers, is glued down and has been in a lot of very hot environments. My daughter lives in Mesa, AZ, and it is often parked there for extensive periods. That system also gets driven often more than 80 MPH and I think they probably flex a bit from venturi forces. The freezer sometimes warms from 0F which it is set at, and didn't used to do that. I haven't permanently mounted the others, and use bungies and spacers on the C-dory, which hardly ever goes more than 30 MPH, and I take it off when I park it on the hard. They still seem good.
Has anyone had any experience with the newer technology of CIGS (copper indium gallium selenide) flexible panels? There are claims that they are more efficient, and particularly that they continue to produce well in heated environments and over very long periods of time. I am not one to accept industry claims at face value, and CIGS are more than twice as expensive as the silicon-based equivalent per watt. I'm not quite ready to bite the bullet for new panels for my 4-wheel camper, but if I hear they are game changers, I might. I usually go with advice from Will Prowse. In 2018, he said flexible panels were crap and to avoid then at all costs. Later, he seemed enamored with the newer CIGS flexible technology in 2021, but I haven't seen any long-term reviews. Anyone? |
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KevinMc
Joined: 10 Sep 2023
Posts: 22
City/Region: Venice
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2006
C-Dory Model: 23 Venture
Vessel Name: Sea~Dory~Able
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| Posted: Sat Jun 29, 2024 12:31 pm Post subject: 2006 venture 23. Now "Sea~Dory~Able" |
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Thanks,everyone for the helpful comments,I was not aware that the panels would benefit from the air flow, I was only thinking of the curve in the roof and now I am convinced that a two tier s/s frame will be used,the lower for the panels and an upper for boards or kayaks (maybe).I assumed the roof hand rail would be the same dia as the forepeak rail tubing.Not so in my case,the rail is 1" dia and the fore/aft Cabin top handrail is 7/8".So,back to the supplier for revised fittings.My Bad!
Please keep the great ideas coming.
KevinMc. |
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