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colbysmith
Joined: 02 Oct 2011 Posts: 4918 City/Region: Madison
State or Province: WI
C-Dory Year: 2009
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-Traveler
Photos: C-Traveler and Midnight-Flyer
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Posted: Wed May 27, 2020 9:47 pm Post subject: |
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Quote: | I have two of the 5 amp batteries in parallel for the breakaway circuit. |
Hm, I may have to consider that next time! Do they each have their own box, or did you make a box to hold them both? My first kit the plastic box came from the retailer with a small crack in the bottom. Then when I mounted the replacement, there was just enough twisting torque with the box to cause another crack. I just siliconed that one, but sometime when I'm out of projects and have time I might look into going the parallel route with two batteries. A lot more choices available with the standard 5AH choices.... Colby |
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easy does it
Joined: 08 Sep 2017 Posts: 117 City/Region: Redmond
State or Province: OR
C-Dory Year: 2004
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Pura Vida
Photos: Easy Does It
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Posted: Thu May 28, 2020 9:12 am Post subject: post subject |
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I had a similar problem with my '08 expedition, it turned out to be a missing or never installed trailer tow iso relay..hard to find on the trip but special ordered from napa and everything was fine |
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thataway
Joined: 02 Nov 2003 Posts: 21375 City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
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Posted: Thu May 28, 2020 10:54 pm Post subject: |
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Everything is in a group 30 battery box. (Accuntuator, break away batteries etc.) Its up high so no (little) chance of getting water in it. Rain proof. _________________ Bob Austin
Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
Thisaway 2006 22' CDory November 2011 to May 2018
Caracal 18 140 Suzuki 2007 to present
Thataway TomCat 255 150 Suzukis June 2006 thru August 2011
C Pelican; 1992, 22 Cruiser, 2002 thru 2006
Frequent Sea; 2003 C D 25, 2007 thru 2009
KA6PKB
Home port: Pensacola FL |
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colbysmith
Joined: 02 Oct 2011 Posts: 4918 City/Region: Madison
State or Province: WI
C-Dory Year: 2009
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-Traveler
Photos: C-Traveler and Midnight-Flyer
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Posted: Thu May 28, 2020 11:45 pm Post subject: |
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Quote: | https://www.npr.org/sections/health-shots/2020/05/28/863526524/covid-19-has-killed-close-to-300-u-s-health-care-workers-new-data-from-cdc-shows?utm_medium=RSS&utm_campaign=news |
Sounds nicely done. I ended up mounting my actuator on a platform I made that raised it about 6" off the tongue. And then the break away kit is mounted higher up on the trailer's bow stop vertical frame. I may have to improve upon it all later. Colby |
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colbysmith
Joined: 02 Oct 2011 Posts: 4918 City/Region: Madison
State or Province: WI
C-Dory Year: 2009
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-Traveler
Photos: C-Traveler and Midnight-Flyer
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Posted: Fri Jun 02, 2023 11:42 pm Post subject: Re: No 12v+ at Ford truck 7 way trailer plug mystery solved? |
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gulfcoast john wrote: | No 12v+ at Ford truck 7 way trailer plug mystery solved?
Hi Friends!
In Nov we dropped the trailer for EOH brake work at a reputable shop in Marathon. For $3000 many wear items were replaced, and the $1,000 Brakerite actuator. Owner upgraded the breakaway trailer battery from the 7AH mini to a U1-1 lawn tractor battery. He said the system used that battery in other ways than instances of total hitch separation, which I didn’t realize.
The new trailer brakes worked great on our return in Jan and to the Hontoon Hoot in Mar, but did not work on the back from Hontoon. All trailer lights worked fine. Troubleshooting revealed the new larger trailer battery was stone dead at 10.2v. Checking the 7 way plug, there was no voltage between the orange 12V+ and white ground pins. Confirmed that with a LED 7 way test plug.
“Your vehicle may have electrical items, such as fuses or relays, related to towing. See Fuses p 317.” Fuse #27 is for ‘Trailer tow battery charge relay (if equipped).” There was no fuse in that slot, so I added one but we’ve been towing with this truck for over a year. Also replaced # 54, “Trailer brake control module.” Cleaned and sanded the plug and applied lots of BoeShield T-9. In my experience, Boeshield T-9 can be a great substitute for understanding how electrical circuits work. No Joy.
It turns out that Ford designed this so there is no 12v+ trailer plug output unless a real trailer is connected and the truck foot brake is activated for at least 3 seconds. It’s not fooled by the 7 pin tester. Trucks like mine with a factory brake controller have a “TRM module” that controls the 12v output to the trailer battery with no fuses or relays. This is buried in a Technical Service Bulletin. The official Ford position on why this information is not in the owner's manual is “because then it wouldn’t be any fun, and girls just want to have fun.”
I replaced the dead battery with a new one, plugged in the 7 way trailer plug, hit the brakes for over 3 seconds, and the actuator pump ran. I measured 12.80V across the trailer battery at 1500 RPM with lights off (12.66 when disconnected). I would have expected 13.1v or so.
My working theory is that somehow only the 12v+ slot was dirty or corroded and that the Brakerite actuator pump was operating only off the trailer battery, which eventually discharged to dead.
I’m open to any other theory or suggestions.
I hope this can save some time and research for other Ford drivers if they run into this issue.
Happy Electrical Gremlin Chasing!
John |
Hi John,
Thought I'd resurrect this thread due to an issue I had with my EOH actuator this trip. I just briefly read through the other posts in the thread, which I think I already mentioned Ford's setup with the accessory pin in the towing harness only energizing when Ford's electronics recognizes a trailer is plugged in. But back on the break away battery.... I had an issue where my actuator was only actuating about every 4th time I applied my pickup's brakes. To make a long story short, I found my break away batteries (I run two 5ah batteries in parallel. I'll have to look into the larger battery you mentioned), were basically dead. Only two years old, but cheapo's. I replaced those batteries and my system started working properly again. Ok, I've always understood that the break away battery only comes into play when the break away switch is activated. (pin pulled). Guess that's not the case. I wrote to Dexter, and the next day got this back in an email:
Colby,
The unit needs a full 12 volt charge to operate correctly. No the tow vehicle does not run the whole system. The brakerite is engaging with the auxiliary battery. I am send you a trouble shooting guide to explain.
Your Titan unit is outdated, the new unit are a Dexter brand, but in the future you can replace the unit through a distributor near you.
Thank You For Your Support,
Michael J. Montoya|Q A MGR
Dexter - Winchester, TN (Plant 25)
michael.montoya@dextergroup.com
cell ph 385-226-2073
1041 Baxter Lane Winchester, TN 37398, USA
fax: (931) 967-1828 | main tel: (931) 361-4336
a DexKo Global Company ■ Together is Better |
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gulfcoast john
Joined: 14 Dec 2012 Posts: 1040 City/Region: PENSACOLA
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2010
C-Dory Model: 255 Tomcat
Vessel Name: Cat O' Mine
Photos: CAT O' MINE
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Posted: Sun Jun 04, 2023 6:06 pm Post subject: |
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Colby,
I’ve enjoyed your trip reports!
In 2019 we had major EOH issues including needing new brakes and actuator pump. Locals in the Keys rec’d South Seas Rigging. The owner was very dismissive of the concept that a 9Ah battery could properly run the system. He replaced it with a ‘lawn tractor’ FLA battery in a battery box bolted to the tongue, with enough room leftover for a spare wood block for the jack. That battery also now powers the 12v electric jack. They seem to be rated in CCA with no Ah claim, but it’s much bigger. Keep the 5Ah to exchange and avoid the core charge. They run $30-$50 at Wal-Mart.
I tend to expect any lead-acid battery to last three to at most five years, or three times the length of the FULL REPLACEMENT Warranty, whichever is SHORTER. I replaced it last year after it quit holding a charge (I also was not trickle charging it as often as I should have).
The pump was over $1,000 with install and is not waterproof. I started giving it some extra protection by covering it with an $8 upside-down Rubbermaid 3g commercial waste basket, secured with a battery tie down kit around the tongue. My thinking is it’s facing hurricane-force rain if I’m going 65 MPH and the rain is going 10 MPH. The bottom is not protected, but a welded on plate precludes enclosing the pump in a battery box.
We dropped the trailer off for a good going over prior to the Trent-Severn/Georgian Bay trip. I thought the tech might laugh about the trash can housing, but he said it was a good idea.
With your experience plus the confirmation that the proper non-breakaway operation of the EOH system DEPENDS ON the breakaway battery leads me to conclude bigger is much better. Especially for a safety related braking component.
Safe Travels!
John _________________ John and Eileen Highsmith
2010 Tom Cat 255, Cat O' Mine
Yamaha F150, LXF150 |
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thataway
Joined: 02 Nov 2003 Posts: 21375 City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
Photos: Thataway
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Posted: Sun Jun 04, 2023 11:18 pm Post subject: |
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Just a quick comment about use of the U1 battery. I used one in one of the E/H systems I built. I had the track record of using an AGM U1 for 5 years as the start, trim and tilt for a 25 hp or a 15 hp outboard, run depth sounder and chart plotter on the 12 1/2' RIB we carried on our Cal 46. It is a great battery even for a any of the C Dories as a dedicated chart plotter/sounder to isolate from the start battery, |
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