Caulking Cockpit Floor - LifeCaulk over Butyl Tape?

localboy · Posted: Thu Mar 25, 2021 1:23 pm Post subject:

I only repaired our steps. I did not remove the main hatch nor fuel tank. So far I have no need to.

You'll probably find rotten balsa in the step/hose covers. Also take the time to back-cut and seal the balsa core for the deck itself where the round inspection hatches are installed. If it's like ours, the balsa core was exposed there too. I used West Systems epoxy and 3M 4000 as you noted.

Pics in our album.

Catch 22 · Posted: Thu Mar 25, 2021 3:21 pm Post subject:

I plan to pull the cockpit floor next year. Two ideas I was thinking about:

A rubber gasket with no adhesive, that could be tapped into place after the floor is in place. One that would compress when fit into the gap by tapping?

Also, could you apply wax to the two surfaces that any bonding agent my adhere to, thus reducing the strength of the bond significantly? Then you could use a product that would otherwise adhere and make a nice seal that could be peeled off with relatively less headache? Just some ideas...

thataway · Posted: Thu Mar 25, 2021 4:29 pm Post subject:

smckean (Tosca) · Posted: Thu Mar 25, 2021 5:14 pm Post subject:

FWIW, my 2005 CD25 did have to have its fuel tank replaced (indeed there was gasoline in the bilge) in less than 10 years. Also, I used to get fresh water running down the inside of the hull and collecting on the cabin sole. The source of this water turned out to be (as Dr Bob suggests) leakage under the steps in the cockpit (from rain and wash downs). The steps had been poorly attached by the factory -- especially if you consider the flexing the steps are subject to as you use them. Removing the steps, cleaning up the old caulk, designing beefed up attachment hardware, reinstalling, and recaulking fixed the problem.

journey on · Posted: Fri Mar 26, 2021 1:31 pm Post subject:

I took out the cockpit sole, mentioned somewhere before. I could not pull the tank because: one had to remove the fill and vent hoses, which are hard to get to; the tank is held in place by a rear stop (2x4) epoxied to the bottom and I felt if I removed those impediments, the tank would have a hard time coming out of the space allotted.

I did inspect the bottom of the tank with a inspection mirror to make sure that there were no obvious problems. Noticed the fuel tank cavity is open to the bilge and when there's water around the aft bilge pump, that water sloshes up around the tank.

Concentrated my efforts in preventing water from entering the bilge by installing watertight hatches and sealing the coaming pockets. Works well.

Boris