LoadRite Trailers

[colbysmith]

I recently bought a new LoadRite trailer. I'm quite happy with it, and I've also been happy with the customer service I've received from both Loadrite and Enterprise Marine and RV, the dealer I worked with for my purchase. That being said, sometimes it's just easier to fix things myself, rather than wait for service or finding available service. I did experience some lighting issues bringing the trailer home. These were probably caused by the vibration in an unloaded trailer on our rough national roads, and also the routing of wires inside channels with other items that can cause chaffing. I was able to correct this issue upon return home and Loadrite made it up to me with providing me some replacement lights, connectors and clothing. (Hat and T-Shirt).

The other more pressing issue, and this is something I share as I would expect any trailer manufacturer to be aware of the laws. EOH brake systems require a 9ah batter or higher. Basically the laws state that the battery has to be able to operate the Electric over Hydraulic actuator for 15 minutes. The standard break away batteries on standard electric braking are the 5ah batteries. When I picked the new trailer up, it only had the one 5ah battery. Upon arrival home I did a little more research, as I learned converting my old trailer's surge braking to EOH, that the larger capacity break away battery was required. So I did some reading of the new trailers EOH actuator, and it also required the larger 9ah battery. I brought this to the attention of Loadrite, and at this time still waiting to see what their engineers come up with. In the mean time, I fabricated my own two battery system. I did this as the 5ah battery is much easier to obtain than a 9 or 10 ah battery. If anyone has recently purchased a trailer with EOH braking, make sure you have the larger battery to meet DOT specs. Below is a photo of the system I fabricated. You can look in C-Traveler's nested album to see more photos. http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_albumName=album3296&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php
Colby

[Knipet]

Colby,
Thanks for the heads up on the legal requirements. I'm having a trailer made for my new Venture right now and I will need to make sure it also complies.
Nice fabrication job. Is that a 3/4" thick piece of Starboard you used on the mount?

[colbysmith]

Thanks. It's 1/2" or 5/8" scrap I had left over. from some earlier projects. A little lighter than I'd prefer, but I'll keep a close eye on it and see how it holds up. It's pretty strong stuff, so I think it should work well. Colby

[Will-C]

I bought a LoadRite Elite aluminum trailer for our 17' Carolina Skiff in 2019. I had wiring issues with the trailer blowing fuses in our tow vehicle. I was troubled to notice in my case the wiring was not really a tin coated marine wire used to wire the trailer. I fixed an intermittent short caused by an exposed small section of wire sometimes grounding out against the frame.
D.D.

[colbysmith]

Unfortunately, I think some corners are cut in most manufacturers with in-expensive trailers. As I said earlier, I am quite happy with the build of this trailer. The main components anyway. The one break away battery they did install, they put on the side of the tongue. I have several launches I use where I know it would be dunked in that position. The EOH unit I think will be ok. it is actually on a bracket on top the tongue, near the hitch end, and raised a few inches above the tongue. The base unit holds the fluid, while the top half of the unit is the electronics. I'm pretty sure that top will never be dunked, and while the base might get wet at the most shallowest ramp, I don't believe the water will reach the fill caps. The EOH unit appears to be a good unit. Has the battery charger within it's electronics, unlike the Dexter unit I put on my old trailer. There the break away battery unit came with it's own charger. After my conversation with the loadrite rep regarding the 5ah vs 9ah battery, I was kind of surprised they didn't know about this earlier. And how many trailers have gone out with EOH units and undersized batteries?

[thataway]

On my Load Rite, we added the electric over hydraulic brakes after we bought the trailer. Our two 5 amp batteries and the accentuate/pump are located inside a battery box which is secured to the trailer tongue--putting it little higher and out of the weather.

[colbysmith]

Hi Bob, I remember you mentioning that to me earlier. Any chance you have some photos of your set up that you can upload? Thanks. Colby

[thataway]

Colby can do photos of the box in the daytime; tomorrow--I should be working on wheel bearings, if a nice day.

[Baxter]

Lots of experience mostly bad.
It seem trailers are just built not engineered. Especially braking systems.
It also seems if you can’t do the work yourself you are in a mess.
Even thought in WY it’s not big boat country we are deep into cargo,
Cattle, Recreational trailers. Yet I find it’s hard to even get bearings
Packed right.

We put at least 5000 miles a year on trailering. Have done up to 10k. Tires are very inferior quality.
The best I currently do not have. They are Goodyear Marathons. Look at
What the bass pro contest fisherman use. They travel high miles at high speeds.

On one trip of our trips to Kentucky lake they were having a bass fishing contest. Talked to guys. Then I walked the line every single trailer had the good Years on.

I do believe they are made in China too but to higher standard. Most ties
I have found East to West coast are junk China ones. This works if you live close to your launch. Names on tires you never heard of.

Be sure to check the date of manufacture code when you but some are years old and rotting on the rack.

If trailer outside keep tires covered. Sun is you tires enemy.

Now for most of you I am telling you what you have experienced and know.

But, just felt I had to share.

[JamesTXSD]

I think the trailer tire of choice right now is the Goodyear Endurance. This model Goodyear is made in the US.

We had a blow out with previous Goodyear Marathons and the road service guy told me that was pretty common with that brand. The tread showed little wear, but the tire came apart from the inside.

When I replaced trailer tires last year, the manager at a Discount Tire said they had had a lot of issues with the Marathons.

Just a heads up.

[thataway]

[thataway]

Gadsden, Alabama and Fayetteville, North Carolina are the factories where GoodYear Endurance are made. I put new tires on my LoadRite trailer a about a year ago--and they are the Endurance. I may have said they were Marathons--If so, I misspoke.

When I buy RV tires I go the the commercial truck dealer in town. 90% of the semi tractors, and fleet trucks get tires there. I had Michelin tires on the RV which were 4 years old and had two blow outs, despite being the correct range for the weight. They suggested Cooper, which are mostly truck tires, but some SUV and cross over tires. Cooper tires are also 100% made in the USA. They do not make specific trailer tires. If the GoodYear Endurance had not been available, I would have gone with Cooper truck tires. The main difference is stiffer side walls in the trailer tire series.

Baxter us absolutely right on all points. Tell the service person that you want new date codes, and look at them. If they don't have them in stock--then have them ordered. I always drop by the tire store and ask what the most current date code is available to them. Once I was able to get a date code only one week old. (That was for a multi thousand dollar replacement of big RV tires.)

Yes Trailers are "Built"--by folks who buy the galvanized steel and aluminum components. The general principles are "engineered". Unfortunately many trailers are sold with boats because they are cheaper--not better. The fact is that many of the C Dory trailers are undersized for the loads.

Colby's experience suggests that LoadRite may be cutting corners. When we have our trailers side by side we can compare. My C Dory 25 trailer is a 2015. So far the only problem has bee someone struck the trailer clearance light on the driver's side on the front of the fender. The reality is that most boat trailers builders used untied SAE wire, instead of tinned AWD marine wire. The SAE, wire might be OK for fresh water, but for salt, it would be worth the cost of using marine standards if re-wiring your trailer. Also the wire gauge has been thinned because of the use of LED lights, which draw far less power.

I changed the surge to Electric over hydraulic brakes. I left the surge coupling (rated at 15,000#) in place and pinned it so it does not slide when braking. [/quote][/quote]

[colbysmith]