dinghy davit lift

[dreamer*69]

I'm looking to install a dinghy davit lift for a 80 - 100 pound inflatable RIB dinghy 8' to 10' long on a CD 22 cruiser. I've searched most of the posts but could still use any suggestions or advice. Thanks.

[Salmon Fisher]

Here is one from Dr. Bob, our resident expert on all things C-Dory and boating in general:

http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t=21520

[thataway]

Dreamer:

You have not commented on my post on your earlier thread on the weight and construction of the Del Mar 9.5' dinghy. It does not appear to be a RIB. If it is an RIB, then hoisting requirements are going to be different as are cradle arrangements to prevent damage to the top of the cabin if carried right side up. If not carried right side up, the how are you going to flip it? (It is possible, but with that big a dinghy on a 22, may be difficult.)

Please respond to the questions.

The Garheur Davit is what most of us use. It is in the $400 range, and get the 2" diameter pipe, The long arm, and at least 12 to 18" longer lower section that the standard.

In my photo albums: There is a dedicated album to the dinghy lift which was up dated only a few weeks ago. There are also other threads recently involving the davit. There are comments under each photo. The dinghy pictured is 9'6" long. Thisaway, had a Radar on a strut forward. Thataway has the radar on the top of a tall Radar Arch, so the tubes of the 68# air floor inflatable fit under the arch. You will be better served with an air floor, rather than wood'/aluminum floor in the inflatable dinghy.

One of the key features is getting the spreader bar of the correct size and construction--as well as placement of the "D" ring patches to be at the precise balance point. The D ring PVC patches on Amazon do very well, when applied with the HH 66 PVC adhesive. My concern is that at 115# that you are going to need a considerably stronger spreader bar. Mine is made of 1" square aluminum stock tubing, with a dowel which just barely fits epoxied into the center, then cariberners suspended from eye bolts to secure the spreader bar to the dinghy. For 115# you are going to have to design a beefier spreader bar. Perhaps of SS square tubing 1 1/4 to 1 1/2" diameter. Tubing might also work. You will have to make a jigs or hold the tubing in a machinists device when you use your drill press to drill the holes to be sure that both the center attachment point and the outer eye bolts are in alignment. I was able to find a galvanized steel spreader bar which was 24" long, and would work--but will require you to have a proper size carabiner or suitable link to secure to the D rings. This spreader bar is far more robust than the aluminum one I use. It is also considerably heavier. Also you will have to protect the end of this galvanized bar to be sure it does not damage the fabric of the inflatable. Caps or even wrapping with duct tape may accomplish this.

Also I am wondering what outboard motor you will be using? If it is a 10HP (as allowed per the web site for that inflatable), it will be in the 80# to 100# range also. If you use that same 9.9 hp outboard as a kicker, then you would put a second station for the hoist in the cockpit so your can transfer it from the kicker mount to the dinghy.

[jkswor]

Atkinshoyle.com

[dreamer*69]

Bob Austin,

We've already spoken regarding the topic a couple of times via email--Rich (dreamer) Thanks again for all the help/advice.

[dreamer*69]

Bob,

Great pics, as well! Also, you mention better off with inflatable bottom. Other than weight reduction, will I be compromising much over the aluminum floor's durability (e.g. carrying 65 lb. dog, fishing gear, etc.)? Thanks.

[thataway]