Accessing Transom Drain Plug While On Lifter

ggray

We are thinking about installing a lifter for the 22 Cruiser at our dock,

Question for those keeping their CDory on a lifter, do you remove the drain plug, or just rely on the bilge pump to remove rain water? It would seem to be a long reach to the drain plug, but the pump leaves a lot of water in the bilge, at least while afloat.

I'd like to get that water out. Perhaps a plug that could be accessed from inside the boat?

ssobol · Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2021 12:03 pm Post subject:

I can reach the drain plug from the swim step on my boat. If you can get on the boat while it is on the lift, maybe you can do it that way.

Also, if you put in a drain plug that is lower down than the factory one, you'll get more water out of the sump.

An issue with the factory bilge pump is the amount of tubing to get the water up and overboard. When the pump shuts off, all the water in the tube drains back out into the sump.

A cockpit or mooring cover will prevent rain water from accumulating in the cockpit.

Finally, on most of the C-Dory 22s the low spot in the hull is at the aft cabin bulkhead. If the boat is level or slightly bow down, any water will accumulate there and can find it's way into the cabin (a number of threads in this forum about that). Make sure that the boat is sitting a bit bow up when on the lift so that any water that comes aboard accumulates in the sump and not elsewhere.

thataway · Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2021 1:18 pm Post subject:

We leave the plug in when our boats are on the lift.

You can often put the plug in from inside the boat, instead of outside.on many boats.

Our lift bunks are set so the bow is higher, and all water drains to the back of any hull on the lift--mono hull or catamaran. This is accomplished by having less turns of cable on the :Winders" and can be reset at any time--that you take the cable clamps off. Just be sure that both sides have the same number of turns removed.

Yes the slant back makes a huge difference. In our 25 no water gets in when the slant back is on.

Robert H. Wilkinson · Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2021 5:05 pm Post subject:

There are automatic drain plugs that use a ball to seal - like this https://weedersdigest.com/bail-r-matic-automatic-boat-drain-plug/?sku=Plug-Exp&msclkid=311e78bd2a071baaaf4d18a55ed16c0e

Not sure how well(safe) they work on larger boats but I had a similar one on a smaller tin boat. At the dock the water pressure outside the boat pushes the ball in and seals. Once under way and on plane the drain is no longer under water so - no pressure - any water in the bilge will then push the ball back and the drain will act as a scupper. On a lift there would be no water pressure outside so any water in the boat would be free to drain. If the boat starts to fill while at the dock water would remain in boat until it surpassed the level of water outside the boat - after that water pressure inside would become greater than outside and the ball would allow them to equalize.

Again I'm not recommending this as a solution for your boat as I am not familiar with their use on larger boats.

Regards,

Rob

srbaum · Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2021 5:32 pm Post subject:

Ggray,
When I had a 22, I pulled the plug, from inside the boat after each use, now that I have a 26, I do the same thing. I leave the plug on the deck, forward of the fuel tanks, to ensure that I don't miss seeing it, before lowering the boat. I also have a Sunbrella cover that goes from the cabin top aft, to the splash well, so this aids in keeping rain, leaves and eventual mold, out of the boat.
This would not be possible on the 25, as the plug is screwed in, from the stern...

thataway · Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2021 8:52 pm Post subject:

Also on the 25 the inner aft lower transom is just not accessible, since the sewage tank in the 2002 to 2004 (? some 05's) and from then on the water tank is in the way. I leave out the mid 1990's Cruise Ship 25's because they don't have a tank there, but still difficult access.

tsturm · Posted: Mon Feb 01, 2021 9:00 pm Post subject:

ggray · Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2021 7:07 am Post subject:

Thanks for the information! This gives me guidance going forward.

While the boat is now on the trailer I'll see if the plug can be screwed in from inside.

For giving a lifter more slant for draining, I have added shackles to the aft cables.

srbaum · Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2021 7:56 am Post subject:

Ggray,
Just to be clear, my past 22 and my current 26, have drain plugs, that are rubber, like this and can be installed inside, or outside of the boat, because the drain tube is symmetrical.

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine--flip-lock-drain-plugs--P001919323?recordNum=3

The 25’s that I have been around, there were threaded (tapered) pipe plugs, that can only be installed, from outside of the boat and look like this.

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/perko--garboard-drain-plugs--P006_181_003_503?recordNum=10

ssobol · Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2021 12:15 pm Post subject:

ggray · Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2021 12:52 pm Post subject:

I have the bronze screw-in plug, which I'm more comfortable with anyway.

I'll look back there to see what can be done.

thataway · Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2021 3:34 pm Post subject:

The screw in bronze plug will probably not work without modification. Both of my 22's (1992 and 2006 had rubber plugs with sawaged brass tube in the transom which would allow either inside or outside insertion.

ggray · Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2021 5:51 pm Post subject:

I'm sure you are right about the threaded plugs. I think the female threads are tapered as well as the male threads.

WeekiTiki · Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2021 5:55 pm Post subject:

Do the new models have threaded drain plugs?

I pull mine from the inside and run the boat if it rains

Luckily it tracks fairly true while I'm scurrying between helm and transom

Almas Only · Posted: Fri Feb 05, 2021 10:00 pm Post subject:

WeekiTiki

SERIOUSLY???????