Full mooring cover used in water

BRAZO · Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 9:53 pm Post subject: Full mooring cover used in water

Is anyone using a full mooring cover while your boat is in the slip? I'd love to have a full mooring cover over the entire boat that snaps on while the boat is not being used -- but would like to know if anyone has tried this.

Thanks,
Robert

2008 CD22 "BRAZO II"
Sturgeon Bay, WI

mcc272 · Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 10:10 pm Post subject:

I have been aboard a CD-22 which used a slant back mooring cover when it is in its slip. As I understand it from the owner, he has used this for several years.

Jim

Sea Wolf · Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 10:32 pm Post subject:

The fellow accross from me has a Bayliner 28 1/2 footer with a full Sunbrella mooring cover, stem to stern.

It's a great way to eliminate most of the clean up associated with various pests, dust, etc. Especially useful to someone who lives far away and can only visit the boat once every month or two. (They live in Redwood City, 260 miles away in the Bay Area.)

The bigger the boat, the harder it is to roll it up and store it. It's a lot easier to do on a double fingered slip, and with two people.

If the berth is not covered, rain will accumulate on a loose cover, so a bowed upward support structure will have to be set up over the cockpit to prevent pooling of water.

I'll bet a full cover for a CD-22 would cost at least $1200-$1500 or more, and have to be custom fitted to your rooftop, including radar, searchlight, dinghy, etc.

All antennas have to be put down as well.

Will also serve as a theft deterrent, hiding things from passers by.

Certainly worth a look into!

Joe. Teeth

thataway · Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 10:37 pm Post subject:

My father had a full cover on the 26 foot sail boat we grew up on. We used sand bags to weight down the edges of the cover. It was made of heavy (about 20 oz) canvas. It was in two sections (because of the weight) and took about 20 minutes to take off. Sunbrella will be lighter, but you will want to double areas where there may be chafe. Snaps are a bit of a problem all around the boat. The problem is snapping the "far side"--as the boat is in the slip. Also you need to have ventillation--at least some vents. I had cover on one of my boats (a 25 foot power boat) and did that for a year--(wooden boat). It was a major hassel, and I abandoned the use. If you don't use the boat much, it would be a great idea. I think that at least a slant back cover over the cockpit is very helpful, and easy to handle. I had one of these on the CD 22 I owned.

Wandering Sagebrush · Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 10:38 pm Post subject:

Robert,

Here's a shot of my boat with the cover on. I can not imagine putting this on while the boat is in the water, unless there are finger piers on each side of the boat... It's a handful just getting it on while the boat is on the trailer....

Steve

Sea Wolf · Posted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 11:38 pm Post subject:

I just ran into this while searching for something else: (Includes some prices, too!)

Angola 22 Cover

Joe. Teeth

tsargent · Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 4:50 am Post subject:

Steve... what brand is the cover you show in the pix and where did you purchase?

Sneaks · Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 5:21 am Post subject:

I use the factory option mooring cover which is a partial cover and is a snap to use in the water (no pun intended). Because the So Cal sun eats up the thread used to sew it together, I only use it when there's a possibility of rain. Not often around here....

Here's a partial photo.

drjohn71a · Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 9:49 am Post subject:

In most areas, there are ppl who design and install sandbag weighted, canvas covers with overhead pulleys that lift and lower the entire cover easily by pulling or releasing one line, or electrically operated with a switch.

If you're going to stay in one spot and have overhead structure, that is the way to go if you are covering.

John

thataway · Posted: Thu Sep 25, 2008 6:12 pm Post subject:

Sneaks, have the cover sewn with Tenara Thread by Gore(Gortex)--this is the standard for Sunbrella. It is quite UV resistant. I have usually just used dacron thread for covers I have made, and get 5 to 6 years before re-stitching is necessary in daily use in S. Calif. There are several other UV resistant threads, but they do cost more $$--well worth it.

The cockpit cover is a good addition.

KU

Have to have a full cover or at least back cockpit cover in the winter so I don't have to shop vac out the back between storms. The cost of a cockpit cover and snaps on the hull = almost a full cover. Add window covers and it is just as much as buying a full cover.

I ordered a full one from Angola Canvas, the only vendor with a 22 >>ANGLER<< template. King Marine just has full cabin templates. Asked for a side zipper, which he sadly forgot to add. Cost ~$980 with shipping in 2016. Well made. Four reinforced cleat holes for docking. But a bit loose fit. Flaps hard in any serous wind. I run a parachute cord under the hull, side to side to keep it down snug. Don't buy a cover for a boat in a slip without at least half zipper, dockside. I'm having to have one added locally.

hardee · Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2017 6:15 pm Post subject:

Here is a pix of my storage cover. Unfortunately it does not cover the full cockpit or the outboards. When the boat was stored outside (1 winter) I added a tarp to cover those areas. Next winter it went inside.

Harvey
SleepyC Moon

thataway · Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2017 6:52 pm Post subject:

KU, how are you getting the cover tight aft? I have an Angola cover on my 22, on the trailer. The back is held tight by a draw string from the bottom of the entire cover which crosses under the motor mount. plus a cord from the middle of each side of the back, under the motor mount, and up to a web loop on the opposite side..

Thanks

KU

The whole cover goes on down over the rub rail by a few inches. I put it on back to front and it is a slight nuisance being only one piece. The contiguous section of bottom edge cord in the rear of the cover has to be slipped over the OB motor skeg and under the motor bracket/Power Tilt & Trim. The two loose lines at the front are then pulled tight and tied off to the bow cleat or around the anchor davit. I'll have pictures posted when they put up my photo page. I only requested it today, so don't expect to have anything up until next week.

There is a u-shape cutout for the OB motor, but he'll also make them full square edged to cover the motor. Some of the water drains into your splash-well in this design.

It has four flapped openings to hang fenders and/or dock lines off the cleats. and it has sewn in tabs for external fender tie offs or lines under the hull to keep it form blowing off. Without at least one soft nylon hull line, it blew off in a 30 MPH wind.

He makes it a little loose to allow cover my radar dome, since he can't do his own custom measurements on mail orders. You give him photos and detailed measurements of anything that isn't stock on the hull.

thataway · Posted: Thu Feb 23, 2017 9:14 pm Post subject:

KU,
Thanks, The 'standard" trailer cover, has the draw string ends at the stern; it sounds as if yours it is just the reverse, with the center of the draw string being at the stern, where ours is at the bow pulpit. Ours has the cut out for the motor--and water does go into the splash well.

I can see where the zipper is essential--if you have to crawl under the cover, down the hatch, and then out the back--and side opening (?).

If you want to send those photos, I'll put them up for you.