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CAVU
Joined: 02 Nov 2003 Posts: 665 City/Region: Spokane
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2002
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: CAVU
Photos: CAVU
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Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 7:39 pm Post subject: Replacing Anodes (Zincs) on Honda Outboard |
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I have twin 40HP Hondas, 2002, with 460hours. Most of their use has been in saltwater. The zincs are looking pretty pitted. For both engines the parts will be well over $100. Before I order the parts I wondered if the pitting and partial consumption really effects how well they would continue to do the job. After all the anode is supposed to get used up and if any of it remains it would seem logical that it would still be working? Any one have any thoughts or advice on the subject? The shop manual also shows an anode in the cooling system under the water jacket cover. I haven't looked at it yet.
_________________ Ken Trease
22 CD Cruiser, CAVU
Twin 40HP Hondas |
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Dreamer
Joined: 01 Jan 2006 Posts: 1764 City/Region: Really Sunny SaddleBrooke
State or Province: AZ
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Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 10:20 pm Post subject: |
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Ken,
I bought 6 new zincs for the 2 150s (Ouch!). I replaced the large ones under the mount. The 2 smaller ones wern't too bad so I buffed them with a wire wheel and reinstalled them. They should be good until winter at least. With a little help from Google, you can find them online for half price! _________________ Roger
Once a C-Brat, always a C-Brat
Dreamer- Sold 25 Feb. 2013 |
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SeaSpray
Joined: 12 Mar 2004 Posts: 1007 City/Region: Brentwood, CA
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2004
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: SeaSpray
Photos: SeaSpray
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Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 11:11 pm Post subject: |
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My Johnson manual saya that when 2/3rds has gone to replace them. also to clean them with a wire brush.
Steve |
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hardee
Joined: 30 Oct 2006 Posts: 12633 City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sleepy-C
Photos: SleepyC
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Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 7:29 pm Post subject: |
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Quote: | clean them with a wire brush | Roger and Steve
....and replace when 2/3 is gone. Suggested to weigh them if questioning. That's what my mechanic said. Also, if you go into freshwater, they should be wire brushed after that, otherwise they get a coating on them that decreases the usefulness when you go back into the salt chuck. HTH
Harvey
SleepyC _________________ Though in our sleep we are not conscious of our activity or surroundings, we should not, in our wakefulness, be unconscious of our sleep. |
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Pete in NY
Joined: 11 Jul 2004 Posts: 131 City/Region: Western LI Sound, NY
State or Province: NY
C-Dory Year: 2004
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Miss Pam
Photos: Miss Pam
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Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 10:13 pm Post subject: |
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Interesting that this topic came up today. I have Miss Pam on the hard doing maintenance. Changing zincs was a first order of business. They were changed last 2 years ago. I have had the boat in the water for 3-1/2 years now, only out for 2 weeks for bottom painting. The zincs on my BF 135 were totally consumed in 2 years. They became this crumbly easily broke stuff kinda like dried mud. I also suffered some minor electrolysis on the very tip of the skeg of the outboard. My permatrim, had the most corrosion on the edges as well as some pitting on its upper surface. The engine is kept in the down position in brackish water on a dock with deicing equipment running in the water in freeze conditions. This is more immersion than most may experience. Sorry, I did not take pics. I am repairing the minor pitting with Marinetex per Honda dealer's instructions and will repaint the lower part of the unit with the 2 part spray paint kit from Honda. (factory color and clearcoat catalyst in spray cans) I don't anticipate any long term problem from the minor corrosion which was mostly cosmetic, but I learned my lesson. Moral of the story is: Change your zincs as soon as you see any degradation. This site has Mil spec at a great price and much less compared to Honda so cost of this important maintenance is negligible: http://www.boatzincs.com/honda.htmlzincs
Since I did have some corrosion, I feel I may be under zinced and will add small 1-7/8 inch diameter rudder/trim tab zincs to both the Permatrim and the trim tabs. _________________ Regards,
Pete in NY |
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CAVU
Joined: 02 Nov 2003 Posts: 665 City/Region: Spokane
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2002
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: CAVU
Photos: CAVU
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Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 10:49 pm Post subject: |
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Pete,
Thanks for that link. The Honda dealer prices are at least three times that! You didn't mention it but did you check the internal zinc? My shop manual shows a round collar type zinc in the cooling water system under the water jacket (40HP). Any way mine are not very deteriorated but I will change them out this fall. At the low prices on your link it won't be too bad. |
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Pete in NY
Joined: 11 Jul 2004 Posts: 131 City/Region: Western LI Sound, NY
State or Province: NY
C-Dory Year: 2004
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Miss Pam
Photos: Miss Pam
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Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2008 3:53 am Post subject: |
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My engine is going in for service in about 2 weeks, new impeller, thermostat,(preventive maintenance, pisser pumps fine and no overheat ever but 3 yrs old) fluid changes. I don't have my manual out, but I'll ask the honda service if there is an internal zinc and change it out also. Ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. |
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CAVU
Joined: 02 Nov 2003 Posts: 665 City/Region: Spokane
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2002
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: CAVU
Photos: CAVU
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Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 3:22 pm Post subject: |
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Based on some of the information above, I ordered new zincs for my Honda 40's. When I actually took the old ones off, I was amazed at the difference in weight. They didn't look much different in size except for the pitting, but when I weighed them on my kitchen scale, the old one weighed 110 grams and the new one weighs 365 grams. It was definitely time to change them. I am getting ready for a trip to Lake Powell and will tackle changing the thermastat and internal zinc after this trip.
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Almas Only
Joined: 09 Nov 2003 Posts: 362 City/Region: Richmond
State or Province: VA
C-Dory Year: 2003
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Alma's Only
Photos: Alma's Only
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Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 7:21 am Post subject: |
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Don't know if the 40 differs from the 90 on zinc placement, but on the 90 the two zincs in the cooling system are accessed by pulling the intake manifold. You'll need a new intake manifold gasket, and possibly an impact driver to unscrew the zinks. You can do it yourself, but will have to be very careful, and might need to do some filling of pits on the mating surfaces.
Let us know how it goes on the 40. _________________ 2003 CD22 Cruiser with Honda 90 |
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ak-cd
Joined: 24 May 2005 Posts: 20 City/Region: Kenai
State or Province: AK
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: CanDu
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Grazer
Joined: 16 Dec 2011 Posts: 183 City/Region: Yukon
State or Province: YT
C-Dory Year: 2004
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-Horse
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Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2016 1:40 pm Post subject: |
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Almas Only wrote: | Don't know if the 40 differs from the 90 on zinc placement, but on the 90 the two zincs in the cooling system are accessed by pulling the intake manifold. You'll need a new intake manifold gasket, and possibly an impact driver to unscrew the zinks. You can do it yourself, but will have to be very careful, and might need to do some filling of pits on the mating surfaces.
Let us know how it goes on the 40. |
Hello All,
I wanted to bring this thread forward again, to ask some questions to those who have done the replacement of the two internal anodes in the cooling system of their Honda 90's as I am preparing to do so. How often should this be done? How difficult is this procedure? Any photos to share of the procedure?
Thanks,
Grazer |
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journey on
Joined: 03 Mar 2005 Posts: 3598 City/Region: Valley Centre
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: journey on
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Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2016 11:34 pm Post subject: |
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Anodes aren't necessarily zinc. They may be magnesium or aluminum. A boat in salt water shouldn't have zinc anodes.
I bought some from a source in Boston and the guy guaranteed they would be MIL-spec zinc. That's not what a motor in salt water needs. I then bought Honda anodes and they were lighter then the zinc ones so I suspect they're not zinc.
Since the 150 engine cost over $10K, I stick with the Honda parts. I get some discount by buying them from boatnet.com.
Also check if your Honda 40's have anodes in the exhaust manifold. I finally checked my 150 and there's 2 there I didn't know about. They're now replaced.
Boris |
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Grazer
Joined: 16 Dec 2011 Posts: 183 City/Region: Yukon
State or Province: YT
C-Dory Year: 2004
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-Horse
Photos: Grazer
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Posted: Thu Apr 07, 2016 12:03 am Post subject: |
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I agree with you Boris, I'll stick with Honda parts for my Honda engine. You may pay a premium but at least you would expect the correct parts in both fit and function. Plus it's pretty easy to look up your part number for your specific engine.
Boris, did you change out the internal anodes in your 150? If so, was it a difficult procedure? Could a guy like me with some handy hand preform the replacement? I understand you need to remove the water manifold cover and therefore require a new gasket? Is there anything else? Would a guy replace the thermostat while he is taking the manifold apart? Sort of preventative maintenance if the thermostat has never been replaced since new.
Grazer |
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journey on
Joined: 03 Mar 2005 Posts: 3598 City/Region: Valley Centre
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: journey on
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Posted: Thu Apr 07, 2016 12:43 pm Post subject: |
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When I replaced my internal anodes on the 150, all I had to do was remove the cover plates on the exhaust manifold. I ordered 2 ea new rubber gaskets from boatnet but they were the wrong ones. The original gaskets had a square cross section, they sent me o-rings. Cleaned and reused the original gaskets.
The anodes hadn't been checked/changed in 10 years. Cleaned up the old ones and they looked like new. I'll put them back in in another 10 years.
The 2 lower anodes were $12 each, the upper one $30 and the internal was $7 for a total of $68 per 150 engine.
I could only find a single anode for the 40 and it was $22. Best to check.
Boris |
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Grazer
Joined: 16 Dec 2011 Posts: 183 City/Region: Yukon
State or Province: YT
C-Dory Year: 2004
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-Horse
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Posted: Thu Apr 07, 2016 2:15 pm Post subject: |
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The 2003 BF90 is different than your 150 as it seems the intake manifold requires removal to access the two anodes in the water passage. |
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