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SEA3PO
Joined: 02 Nov 2003 Posts: 1835 City/Region: Chester
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2003
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: SEA3PO
Photos: SEA3PO
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Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2016 12:21 pm Post subject: |
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The answer to that is sorta a yes and no..... that gauge will work...but it might make you crazy.... what happens is those gauges are not liquid filled...and the needles move so fast that they are hard to get an exact number at idle...fine at high speed but idle they will be bouncing around fast....
What makes the home-made unit better is the gauges are liquid filled...and dampens that jumping around...makes it much easier to read...that is the difference between a $75 tool and a $350 tool.. I like the $30 best.
Joel
SEA3PO |
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SEA3PO
Joined: 02 Nov 2003 Posts: 1835 City/Region: Chester
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2003
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: SEA3PO
Photos: SEA3PO
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Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2016 12:35 pm Post subject: |
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I was just thinking...why not just borrow my tool ?? it's not like I use it every day.... it will fit in one of those all you can pack boxes that cost $12.95 one way...so round trip would cost about $25... just about what it cost to build yer own...but if anyone would want to use mine I sure will loan er out..
Joel
SEA3PO
Last edited by SEA3PO on Fri Feb 19, 2016 12:39 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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SEA3PO
Joined: 02 Nov 2003 Posts: 1835 City/Region: Chester
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2003
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: SEA3PO
Photos: SEA3PO
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Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2016 12:37 pm Post subject: |
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I could also glue another gauge on the stick for any of you'all that have 4 cylinder motors....it's just shoe goo...
Joel
SEA3PO |
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CDory23
Joined: 23 Nov 2011 Posts: 227
State or Province: CA
Photos: CDory23
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Posted: Sat Feb 20, 2016 7:05 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the offer Joel,
It turns out the maintenance shop at my work has a quality carb sync tool I can borrow so it solves the issue for me.
Has anyone done or considered changing out the fuel line in the motor itself? If I get these motors running good again I"m going to change out all of my fuel lines in the boat even though they look to be in good shape just because they are 13 years old now. |
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Sunbeam
Joined: 23 Feb 2012 Posts: 3990 City/Region: Out 'n' About
State or Province: Other
C-Dory Year: 2002
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Photos: Sunbeam
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Posted: Sun Feb 21, 2016 2:15 am Post subject: |
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CDory23 wrote: |
Has anyone done or considered changing out the fuel line in the motor itself? If I get these motors running good again I"m going to change out all of my fuel lines in the boat even though they look to be in good shape just because they are 13 years old now. |
I did. As you are planning, I put all new fuel lines/hoses in my boat when I first got it. Actually, I got new tanks too (was in the right place at the right time to make it easy). While I was at it I also replaced the section of fuel line in the engine that runs from where it enters the motor (after the external line with bulb) around to the internal fuel filter. It was something like 12" of hose. The boat had been sitting prior to my buying it (had to have all four carbs rebuilt), and I just wanted to make sure it was all clean/new, and that the fuel lines were all the correct ones and as "modernly" ethanol resistant as possible (although I still try to run pure gas). I have a Yamaha 80. |
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BrentB
Joined: 15 Jul 2006 Posts: 4420 City/Region: Greenwood
State or Province: IN
Photos: BrentB
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Posted: Sun Feb 21, 2016 2:52 pm Post subject: |
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I used A1 fuel feed hose. It
has a fire resistant cover; is designed to have fuel in the hose at all times. Least permeable with highest fire resistance. _________________ Brent Barrett |
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Sunbeam
Joined: 23 Feb 2012 Posts: 3990 City/Region: Out 'n' About
State or Province: Other
C-Dory Year: 2002
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Photos: Sunbeam
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Posted: Mon Feb 22, 2016 12:40 am Post subject: |
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BrentB wrote: | I used A1 fuel feed hose. It
has a fire resistant cover; is designed to have fuel in the hose at all times. Least permeable with highest fire resistance. |
Good point to mention. A1 rated hose is the correct designation to use for most fuel lines. Fills can be A2 rated (and I believe vents as well, but I'm a bit rusty on that without looking it up). However, within the A1 and A2 designations, there is still a variety of options of specific hose model number. I used all Trident brand hose, but there are other good marine hose manufacturers (Shields, Vetus, etc.). Going by memory (when I chose the various hoses I temporarily immersed myself in their hose catalog, but that's been a couple of years ago now)...
1) Fill hose was Trident #329 (type A2). #329 is a corrugated (Michelin Tire Man look) type hose, which I used because it would made the necessary bends more easily -- without putting excessive pressure on the plastic filler necks of the fuel tanks (especially the port side fill, which doglegs around the lazarette).
2) Vent lines were another Trident hose, but I can't remember which one right now.
3) I then bought some Trident #305 ethanol resistant fuel hose for the outboard supply lines (grey in color; was recommended for outboards), but found it very "thin" and prone to kinking. It just didn't give me a good feeling because of the way the supply lines in the splashwell need to move). So I ended up using another Trident hose (#365, I think, but might have been #319) that was quite a bit thicker, black, and not prone to kinking. I used this for all the supply lines, both from the tanks and in the splashwell.
4) But I did find a good use for the thinner grey #305 hose, which was to replace the main fuel line inside my Yamaha 80 (from where it enters the engine cowling to the internal fuel filter). The thicker hose would never have fit, and kinking wasn't an issue as the line is "guided" over the whole path.
The Trident hose catalog link is here: (2.7MB download):
http://tridentmarine.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/Trident-Hose-Catalog.pdf |
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