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Robert H. Wilkinson
Joined: 26 Jan 2011
Posts: 1276
City/Region: Port Ryerse
State or Province: ON
Vessel Name: Romakeme IV
Photos: Romakeme IV
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 Posted: Wed Feb 17, 2016 9:23 pm Post subject: |
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| CDory23 wrote: | | Also, the problem wasn't from running the engines while using the flushing connection with a hose, but actually leaving it disconnected while running the boat in the water. |
My boat is a Volvo I/O so a tad different,,, however if the cap on my flushing port is not replaced properly the pump sucks air and motor overheats. Cap and 'O' ring must be in place and tight.
If your motor was overheating(sans alarm) I believe some computers will limit rpm to prevent extensive damage. Maybe a code needs to be cleared? Try disconnecting battery for a while then reconnecting. If this is the problem then I would replace the water pump and find out why the overheat alarm didn't go off.
Regards, Rob
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Talk to me and I will listen-- but if its not about boats or fishing all I will hear is bla,bla,bla,yada,yada,zzzzzzzz |
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hardee
Joined: 30 Oct 2006
Posts: 12637
City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sleepy-C
Photos: SleepyC
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| Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2016 3:52 am Post subject: |
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CDory23,
I have seen lots of talk about carbs but nothing about whether you did the "Sync and Link" after doing the carbs. When I had mine rebuilt due to E-10 fuel sitting and making crystal gum in the carbs, the mechanics not only cleaned the carbs but replaces the jets and all the gasket/O rings. We did that in all 6 carbs.
I have had no problem with the carb OB's since then. An occasional idle adjust and sync and link done with the annual seems to be doing the trick.
Good luck with your Yami's.
Harvey
SleepyC 
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CDory23
Joined: 23 Nov 2011
Posts: 227
State or Province: CA
Photos: CDory23
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| Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2016 2:39 pm Post subject: Update on motor issues |
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Ok, So i decided to check for spark and all plugs have it. I then decided to pull plug wires with motor running to see how it would effect the performance since its acting like its only running on 2 of the 3 cylinders. Well when i disconnected the plug cable to cylinder number #1 it made no difference in the engine running. When i pulled #2 or #3 the engine would die instantly. So the engine is only running on #2 and #3 cylinders.
The good thing about twins is when your working on them you can test theories on the other motor. I did the same test to the other motor and when one plug was pulled it ran exactly like the motor with issues, on two cylinders.
So I know I have spark, I'm thinking at this point its safe to assume that the #1 carb is not giving the #1 cylinder any fuel. Does that sound right? I did unscrew the bowl drain and fuel came out of the #1 carb. |
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cbgale
Joined: 07 Jul 2006
Posts: 123
City/Region: Calumet
State or Province: MI
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Raton
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| Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2016 4:16 pm Post subject: |
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| How about #1 spark? Plug, wire, or coil? |
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cbgale
Joined: 07 Jul 2006
Posts: 123
City/Region: Calumet
State or Province: MI
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Raton
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| Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2016 4:20 pm Post subject: |
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| You know you have spark in the other engine, but not in the one with the problem. Is the plug wet with raw gas? I would switch out coil and try a new plug before digging in to the carb. |
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CDory23
Joined: 23 Nov 2011
Posts: 227
State or Province: CA
Photos: CDory23
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| Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2016 4:32 pm Post subject: |
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The first thing I did was check for spark by turning engine over while plug and cable are connected and grounding it on the motor. I saw spark.
I think you still have a good idea, I might as well replace the plug assembly to confirm this is not the issue before digging into the carbs. It only takes a few minutes. |
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BrentB
Joined: 15 Jul 2006
Posts: 4420
City/Region: Greenwood
State or Province: IN
Photos: BrentB
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| Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2016 4:37 pm Post subject: Re: Update on motor issues |
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| CDory23 wrote: | Ok, So i decided to check for spark and all plugs have it. I then decided to pull plug wires with motor running to see how it would effect the performance since its acting like its only running on 2 of the 3 cylinders. Well when i disconnected the plug cable to cylinder number #1 it made no difference in the engine running. When i pulled #2 or #3 the engine would die instantly. So the engine is only running on #2 and #3 cylinders.
The good thing about twins is when your working on them you can test theories on the other motor. I did the same test to the other motor and when one plug was pulled it ran exactly like the motor with issues, on two cylinders.
So I know I have spark, I'm thinking at this point its safe to assume that the #1 carb is not giving the #1 cylinder any fuel. Does that sound right? I did unscrew the bowl drain and fuel came out of the #1 carb. |
OK you have spark at all plugs?
I don't know how you tested it but an inline spark tester is useful. This will test the ignition system is functional.
If you think it is no gas (blockage) then locate the screw in front of high speed jet, and check for dirt, debris causing blockage. usually it is located on lower front of carb float bowl. Check the manual for the location. Priming gas through it should clear it
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CDory23
Joined: 23 Nov 2011
Posts: 227
State or Province: CA
Photos: CDory23
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| Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2016 5:25 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks,
There is no way to take the bowl off without removing the whole carb manifold off as the carbs are all stacked on top of each other. At this point since there is a member here with the same motor who has re jetted his carbs and had good operation since I'm going to pull the carbs, rebuild and re jet much larger and hope this solves this carb issue. |
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hardee
Joined: 30 Oct 2006
Posts: 12637
City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sleepy-C
Photos: SleepyC
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| Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2016 12:29 am Post subject: |
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CDory23,
It sounds like you are getting close. I would sure start with that #1 cylinder carb, and make sure it is all clean, and the jets too. Then be sure they are synced when you put it back together. (I learned that from my mechanic.) I hope that works for you.
Harvey
SleepyC
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CDory23
Joined: 23 Nov 2011
Posts: 227
State or Province: CA
Photos: CDory23
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| Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2016 2:09 am Post subject: |
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I hope I'm getting close. Yes I understand the carbs all need to be synced after the cleaning. I planned to take them to the mechanic to have this done when I was finished in less you are saying there is a relatively cheap/easy way to do this yourself. Please advise.
Thanks! |
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Sunbeam
Joined: 23 Feb 2012
Posts: 3990
City/Region: Out 'n' About
State or Province: Other
C-Dory Year: 2002
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Photos: Sunbeam
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| Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2016 10:28 am Post subject: |
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| CDory23 wrote: | | I understand the carbs all need to be synced after the cleaning. I planned to take them to the mechanic to have this done when I was finished in less you are saying there is a relatively cheap/easy way to do this yourself. Please advise. |
When I bought my 22 the 2002 Yamaha 80 had obviously been sitting (50 hours, non-current registration, boat stored in a building). The seller (who was not the owner - was a dealer) tried to get away with just a heavy duty carb cleaning, but a sea trial showed that was obviously not enough. It would run fine until about 1500 rpm, and would then start to miss. I offered a price that would account for my having the work done, and then after taking possession promptly had a good Yamaha shop rebuild all four carbs (in addition to catching up general service items). Ran like a charm after that.
Others have mentioned this, but whenever I store the boat (I tend to go out for longer cruises and then store the boat for more than two weeks), I drain the carbs. It takes less than five minutes and is a very small percentage of my "put away" time. This removes fuel that just running the engine dry does not take care of (I do that first though, to minimize what I'm draining). I just crack four screws and hold a paper towel under each of them to drain the carbs. The bottom one is a little tricky to reach but not bad.
I have never tried to synch carbs, but I noticed that Dora~Jean's album has a good pictorial of it. He has twin Yamaha 80's of our same vintage, too. Here is a link to his "engine maintenance" sub-album:
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_albumName=album376&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php |
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SEA3PO
Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 1835
City/Region: Chester
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2003
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: SEA3PO
Photos: SEA3PO
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| Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2016 10:38 am Post subject: |
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There is a real solution to your carb problem... rebuild them and re-jet them to a much larger size.... I had to look hard but I found the same series of jets used on earlier 2 cylinder Yamaha carbs...only the jet size is much larger...I installed these and my motors start, run and give better economy...amazing ... I think Yamaha jetted the carbs too tight to get that emission rating without thinking about the possibility of reliability problems... as I understand it the same motor when used on a daily basis never gives any problems... only motors that are left wet for long periods of time have carb problems. I now drain my fuel and carb bowls before the boat sits for any length.
Joel
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SEA3PO
Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 1835
City/Region: Chester
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2003
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: SEA3PO
Photos: SEA3PO
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| Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2016 10:50 am Post subject: |
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The tool used to sync carbs is expensive..but I found an inexpensive way to build a first class tool.... easy... 1st. on EBAY buy liquid filled vacuum gauges that are made in China...they are worthless.. the reason is that they are in a measurement that no one but a China man understands...but who cares what the actual number is...what you are trying to do it adjust all 3 carbs to the exact same point...and they work perfect for that... just don't try to understand the numbers...will make you crazy... glue 3 of the gauges on a stick one over the next.... the neat trick is the nipple that screws into the manifold is a small metric thread.... easy...buy 3 mig welding tips...they are the same metric thread and will work perfect as nipples in the manifold... about 4' of clear hose from Home Depot and yer finished ....
You need to disconnect the throttle linkage to adjust the three carbs...once you get the exact same vacuum numbers on your gauges you adjust the linkage to fit the carb holes... not the other way around.. and your done..
EASY' and the cost is about $30
Joel
SEA3PO |
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BrentB
Joined: 15 Jul 2006
Posts: 4420
City/Region: Greenwood
State or Province: IN
Photos: BrentB
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CDory23
Joined: 23 Nov 2011
Posts: 227
State or Province: CA
Photos: CDory23
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| Posted: Fri Feb 19, 2016 11:56 am Post subject: |
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Joel,
You have been extremely helpful. I ordered the exact same jets you have and am waiting for them to clean/change jets in the carbs.
Thanks Brent for that link. That would be an easier option for me opposed to building one and saving $40. I actually looked up a youtube video on syncing carbs and saw somebody using that exact product. I think I will purchase that to set off the cost of taking it in for the sync.
Thanks all. Its a waiting game now. |
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