Johnson (Suzuki) 90: Another midsection corrosion failure

Chester · Posted: Sun Feb 09, 2014 11:49 pm Post subject:

Well?

SeaSpray · Posted: Mon Feb 10, 2014 2:04 am Post subject:

Thanks for the suggestions. I am spending all my time working now and have not had a chance to try again. Work end April 15.

SeaSpray · Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 8:57 pm Post subject:

Well tax season is over and I have some time now. I tried again to remove the bolt. This time I used some heat but ended up rounding out the allen part of the bolt. I also used a knife to break the seal of the paint around the bolt. It did not budge.

Not sure what to do next. Take more extreme measures or just leave it and see what happens.

Steve

BrentB · Posted: Wed Apr 23, 2014 10:03 pm Post subject:

some reading material

http://www.boatus.com/magazine/2012/october/DIY-When-Theres-No-Dynamite.asp

Pat Anderson · Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2014 12:07 am Post subject:

Lord, this thread gives me the heebie-jeebies. I can't even get a lug nut off. Keeping fingers crossed no similar issues exist with a Honda BF150! If so, I will just shell out the $$$ to Pete at West Coast Marine, because there is not a chance in HELL I will be tackling any of this stuff!

Gene&Mary · Posted: Sat Apr 26, 2014 1:35 pm Post subject:

when I read the thread I hoped I would never be a part of it.........no such luck.

Here is the report back from the shop-

REMOVED THE ENGINE PORT SIDE COVER AND INSPECTED. FOUND THAT THE OIL PAN IS CORRODED THROUGH ALLOWING EXHAUST TO ENTER THE ENGINE COVER WHICH IS CAUSING THE ENGINE TO CHOKE OUT AT LOW SPEEDS. LOOKED UP ALL PARTS THAT WE THINK MAY BE NEEDED TO REPAIR THIS CUSTOMER'S ENGINE. WE WILL NOT BE ABLE TO CONFIRM UNTIL THE ENGINE IS ACTUALLY TORN DOWN. ENGINE COMPRESSION GOOD AT 233/235/228/230 (GOOD) UNIT HAS 536 HOURS AND 34 MINS OF RUN.

CUSTOMER NEED APPROX. 4000.00 TO REPAIR THIS ENGINE.

The engine is a 2005 Suzuki, low hours, always maintained (by a shop not me) and stored in Twin Bridges dry storage since it was new.

I'm no mechanic but I had it in the TB shop (not a Suzuki shop) for a tune up and when I got it back the oil level was high....couldn't even see the top on the stick. The shop re-checked their work and they had added two extra quarts of oil. They drained it out and said it shouldn't cause a problem. Could this have anything to do with what is now being found in a Suzuki shop? Looking at the pictures of the corrosion I would doubt it but it seems like they should have caught what is now being found by the Suzuki shop. Maybe I should ask fro my money back from them at least.

Comments would be very appreciated, maybe a crying towel.

thanks

petemos · Posted: Sat Apr 26, 2014 6:35 pm Post subject:

I would not think the high oil level has anything to do with this. The corrosion is a known Suzuki problem that the company has refused to honor under warrantee. It has to do with dissimilar medals and the steel bolt plug they put in instead of an aluminum one.
Sorry Jim

rogerar · Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2014 6:27 pm Post subject:

I know Suzuki/Johnson will only do the right thing if a lot of pressure is put on them, like BOAT U.S. is doing with Yamaha.
There may be a settlement in the future, so save those pictures!
Roger

localboy · Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2014 7:52 pm Post subject:

May be too late, but I have used an inexpensive impact driver for rusted hardware.
http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html

If it is truly rounded, you may have to resort to drilling/tapping or try an "easy out", although they are not "easy" and don't always get the bold "out". With steel, I've actually used a lot of heat or even welded a nut to a broken stud, but on alum...not many options.

SeaSpray · Posted: Tue Apr 29, 2014 12:05 am Post subject:

I have the harborfreight impact driver and tried that the first time with no luck.
I am thinking the only way may be to drill it out. I have concerns of getting the drilling material inside the passage. Not sure what problems that might cause.

I was also thinking of cutting flats on the top and bottom of the bolt and trying to use a clamping crescent wrench.

What I want to do is just forget about and use the boat. I don't see any problems from the outside but who knows what is going on inside.

Steve

localboy · Posted: Tue Apr 29, 2014 9:54 am Post subject:

Yep. I hear ya. You could worry yourself to death with "what if". PIA getting rusted stuff apart; always has been. Always will be. I started using anti-seize on just about everything I screw together, even lug nuts.

timflan · Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2014 1:21 pm Post subject:

Resurrecting this thread because...the JB Weld patch finally fell off! The boat is now at Jacobsen's to have the entire oil pan casting replaced. Can't remember if I mentioned this, but I sourced a used (freshwater-only) oil pan off eBay for about half the cost of a new one. Cleaned it up, and it's almost like new. We'll see...

BrentB · Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2014 1:52 pm Post subject:

ebay is super

timflan · Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2014 2:07 pm Post subject:

I thought about trying to replace it myself. It's just bolts, after all. Well, it's bolts, plus supporting the engine while it's disassembled from the pivot, and not accidentally dropping the entire thing onto my driveway and having it break into a million pieces. So yeah...Jacobsen's can do it for me. Smile

BrentB · Posted: Tue Aug 05, 2014 2:13 pm Post subject:

It would be intestesting to see if the old pan could be repaired with Helicoil insert and using a larger bolt