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V700 windlass retrieve issue
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primative



Joined: 16 Mar 2004
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 4:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ghone wrote:
We use New England 3 strand ion the Lewmar H700. 45 ft 1/4 g4 hi test and no swivel. I like the fewest links in the system. Like others on retrieve we like to let the chain unwind on the way up. We'll motor ahead to take the pressure off and just let the windlass lift the gear. I rarely snub the rode anymore as we run a 22 lb Lewmar anchor. I have yet to see us drag. If in real shallow water I'll run a rolling hitch on the chain and tie off over the windlass to the cleat. In deeper water same deal rolling hitch on the rope rode. Loads go to the windlass. No chocks up front as I use the bow eye for forward mooring line( always attached) , I have run the anchor loads to the bow eye to experiment in gusty conditions. Seems to settle the boat down in swinging. I also will put a bungy cord on the rode to the bow eye for the same reason at times.


ghone, I do not understand why you said "Loads go to the windlass." I thought the idea for the extra rope hitched to the rode and tied to your cleat was to relieve windlass strain. The forward mooring line that you keep attached to your bow eye is not the same line you use for hitching into your rode, otherwise you would not be able to tie off at the cleat, correct? It's a bit confusing because I think DaveS said earlier he uses a bow eye line to put his hitch onto the rode which would mean you do not use the cleat. Are you saying you do this too, sometimes in gusty conditions?

I was surprised to hear you and others do not use a swivel. I thought it was an anchor rigging standard to help prevent line twist.

Sunbeam, thanks for the contacts.

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ghone



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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sharp eye Primitive! Typing boo boo. Meant to say "loads don't go to windlass". Windlasses aren't designed for more than the rated pick up load. Our little boats could probably get away with letting the windlass hold things but a day would come... I have used the bow line to the rode a few times mostly to see how the boat lies. So far I don't see much difference but maybe less swing when gusty . I still tie to the cleat just pull a bunch of slack keeping the load on the bowline and tie off in the normal way. In case the rolling hitch were to slip. In my time in the marine retail business I saw too many broken swivels to trust them. Try a Google search on putting swivels in anchor systems. Lots of reasons why not to have them and few to have them. Sorry for the confusion. My IPad still puts words I didn't want sometimes. Self correcting robot thingy! George
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primative



Joined: 16 Mar 2004
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 5:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

" I still tie to the cleat just pull a bunch of slack keeping the load on the bowline and tie off in the normal way. In case the rolling hitch were to slip."

Thanks George. Don't mean to be tedious, just want to be understanding correctly. When you say in the above quote ""pull a bunch of slack", you are talking about extra line from the anchor locker and that is going onto the cleat for back up safety in addition to a separate load absorbing line that is hitched to the rode in front of the bow roller bracket and then also tied to the cleat?

Also thanks for the swivel info.. I have not done any research other than what I was told to do at the local marine supply years ago.

Tom
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ghone



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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 5:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Close. I just tie the rode to the line attached to the bow eye with a rolling hitch near it's end and drop it in the water. Then just tie the rode off with some slack to the cleat by pulling a little out of the locker. Isn't very scientific mostly just experimenting. Usually just bring the rode back over the windlass and tie off. George
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primative



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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got it!

Is the line that's used from the bow eye and hitched to the rode the same diameter as the rode?
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DaveS



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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 6:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

primative wrote:
DaveS, to take strain off the windlass do you let rode out after you have hitched into it?
.

Deploy and set your anchor, then secure one end of the 5 foot line to the bow eye. Then hand pull in several feet of anchor rode, attach your rolling hitch to the rode then ease the rode out so the strain is taken on the 5 foot line and bow eye and no strain is on the winch. If I know I am going to anchor frequently on a cruise I keep the 5 foot line secured to the bow eye and when not at anchor I secure the line to the bow pulpit and it is ready to use at the next anchorage. This same line can be utilized on a mooring buoy. (If used for that you might consider a longer line).

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Sea Wolf



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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sea Wolf wrote:
I have a question for you which is how do you snub the rode when it is deployed? (I figure with all chain you must snub.) Have you added chocks for a rope bridle? A single line to the bow eye? Or...?

Thanks,
Sunbeam


For overnight anchoring, I use a rolling hitch and bring the new snubber line back over the bow roller and tie it to the center bow cleat. (The roller has a bail which secures the rode or new line down.)

During the day, I just leave the chain under load, around the windlass gypsy, and led down into the locker. No problems in 8 years, but of course, I boat mostly on inland lakes, not the open ocean/bays.



Joe. Teeth Thumbs Up

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primative



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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2013 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

George
Just got off the animated knots site and it suggests using a little smaller diameter line for the rolling hitch onto the main line so it is less likely to slip. Makes sense.

Dave S, thanks for the clarifications.

Tom
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Moxieabs



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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 5:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does the 8-plait stretch less than 3-strand and thus offer less "shock absorber" function?
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journey on



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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 6:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nylon plaited line/rope/rode has a slightly higher average tensile strength than 3 strand nylon: for 1/2" plait: 8300#, 3 strand: 6300#. Since the equivalent cross sectional are is what gives line it's strength, for the same material, it's seems reasonable to assume that the plait , though nylon, doesn't stretch as much.

I changed from 3 strand to 6 strand plait and I certainly can't tell the difference. I got the plait because it's more flexed and Lewmar recommended it for the V700. I finally changed the capstan back to the V600, since it works better. They're interchangeable.

Boris
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Sunbeam



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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I, too, wanted to make sure I wasn't giving up the benefits of "good old" three-strand nylon in terms of elongation. From what I understand reading this chart (which I looked at before going with Brait), the Brait actually absorbs more energy than three-strand (Yale makes both).

http://www.yalecordage.com/pleasure-marine-ropes/anchoring-mooring-specialty/nylon-brait.html

Scroll down about 3/4 of the way for "Energy Absorption Comparison."
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primative



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PostPosted: Wed Nov 06, 2013 11:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

journey on wrote:
Nylon plaited line/rope/rode has a slightly higher average tensile strength than 3 strand nylon: for 1/2" plait: 8300#, 3 strand: 6300#. Since the equivalent cross sectional are is what gives line it's strength, for the same material, it's seems reasonable to assume that the plait , though nylon, doesn't stretch as much.

I changed from 3 strand to 6 strand plait and I certainly can't tell the difference. I got the plait because it's more flexed and Lewmar recommended it for the V700. I finally changed the capstan back to the V600, since it works better. They're interchangeable.

Boris


When you said you can't tell the difference, did you mean in relation to how the two lines perform with your windless ( no difference in kinking), or just the difference in stretch between the two?

Didn't know about the V600 capstan interchangeability and it being better, thanks for the tip.

Can you tell me what brand of 6 strand plait line you have?

Tom
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journey on



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PostPosted: Thu Nov 07, 2013 8:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tom here's my comments on your questions.

First, the V600 capstan has somewhat different teeth from the V700 and the rope part of the rode (sorry, I couldn't resist,) fits deeper and pulls better in the V600. That said, I only changed because I had a V600 capstan left over when I replaced the windlass. I certainly wouldn't go out and buy a V600 capstan.

I believe I had trouble at first because I tried using the old, stiff anchor line on the new windlass and it wasn't gripping; I had to tail the line from the anchor locker.

So, my solution was to get 200' of 6-plait line and splice that to the chain. My splice isn't neat but it's held for 3 years. The plaited line is more supple, so it meshes better with the capstan. But then so should new 3 strand. I bought the plait because it was sexy and on sale and Judy wanted the anchor to hold. It was made by Samson, I believe. I don't know if they still made it. Any line made in America should do as well.

It flakes better than the 3 strand and works with either capstan. And it's held Journey On nailed to the ground. Actually, I changed to the V600 capstan after we came home, so the V700 must of worked for the rest of our time in the San Juan's.

Now you know as much as I do. My comment is just go ahead do the best you can and quit worrying. You got all the right stuff. Though I've always had an ACCO swivel in every anchor rode I've had and they've never failed. I don't buy the offshore stuff for anchoring, even those made in Italy.

Boris
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primative



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PostPosted: Fri Nov 08, 2013 12:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Boris, thanks for getting back and the details. I bought my V700 a few yrs ago from a West coast service center in CA., shortly after it changed from the Washington location. When he asked me to send in my former Sprint 600 (was Simpson Lawrence before Lewmar bought them if I remember correctly) he didn't mention capstan interchangeability.

Sounds like you like your 6 plait line more than the 3strand, and will do it again when you need to replace rode.

I am going to keep my 3 strand line as it is not very old, and try some of the things mentioned on this thread. If it doesn't work well enough then its on to plaited line. I was told by Josh, tech. support at Lewmar, that plaited line is softer and sometimes has more tendency to slip. He recommended going with the 3 strand first, then switching if other solutions not working.

I take it you did not have slippage issues with the 6 plait and the V700, before changing to the 600 capstan?

Tom
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ghone



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PostPosted: Fri Nov 08, 2013 11:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry missed your question re diameter of line. I use the bow line (mooring line) that I keep permanently attached to the boy eye. It's 3/8 inch. No problems with slipping. A rolling hitch normally takes two wraps, I'll do a third wrap if needed. George
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