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Yamaha F80 does not stay tilted up, but rather sinks down
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Sunbeam



Joined: 23 Feb 2012
Posts: 3990
City/Region: Out 'n' About
State or Province: Other
C-Dory Year: 2002
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Photos: Sunbeam
PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2013 12:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's how I was just thinking about it. Now I know how to check the fluid level, how to bleed it, and how to use the manual override - all to the good. Kind of like getting a flat tire on a particular vehicle the first time; kind of a bummer, but then you know for sure how to work the jack, get the tire unstowed, etc. (not to say one can't/shouldn't work that out in advance!)

Oh and a note: The reservoir plug took a 17mm socket (which I now own one of Laughing). The manual override screw was just a regular slotted head, but it was really, really tight and while I was at the tool shop I got a large-tipped screwdriver for it which fits well, so I could put more oomph on it without causing damage (somehow didn't have one of those in my took kit - only "normal" sized ones). The manual override screw on the F80 is on the port side, in the bracket area. There is a hole in the bracket that you put the screwdriver through to reach it. Also a little raised symbol depicting a tilting engine.

Sunbeam

PS: I also started the engine on the muffs. First time since the carbs were drained after the major servicing (over a year ago Wink ). Also first time since I replaced the fuel tanks, fuel lines and hoses, fuel filter, primer bulbs, etc. Fired right up and sounded happy. Double yay Smile Next test will be at the launch ramp - still quite a few other unproven systems that I went through.
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DuckDogTitus



Joined: 31 Jan 2013
Posts: 1034
City/Region: Gig Harbor
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 1988
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-Miner
Photos: Hemingway
PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2013 1:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sunbeam wrote:


Oh and a note: The reservoir plug took a 17mm socket (which I now own one of Laughing). The manual override screw was just a regular slotted head, but it was really, really tight and while I was at the tool shop I got a large-tipped screwdriver for it which fits well, so I could put more oomph on it without causing damage (somehow didn't have one of those in my took kit - only "normal" sized ones). The manual override screw on the F80 is on the port side, in the bracket area. There is a hole in the bracket that you put the screwdriver through to reach it. Also a little raised symbol depicting a tilting engine.



in looking at your pictures I assumed the manual was port, mine is starboard and I just didn't see a way to access it on yours. I hear you on tools. I have a particular driver now set aside for that very thing "just in case", and a good growing tool bag that I keep on board. I think I'd like to set up a nice little tool drawer similar to the mechanics tool roller toolbox I have in my garage Wink

two weeks ago I found a tear in a deteriorated fuel primer bulb. as I drifted out in the bay with a thirsty motor that wouldn't start (no suction), I quickly troubleshooted the problem and half enjoyed the task of fixing it on the water because I had the tools and ability to do so. Thumbs Up

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Sunbeam



Joined: 23 Feb 2012
Posts: 3990
City/Region: Out 'n' About
State or Province: Other
C-Dory Year: 2002
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Photos: Sunbeam
PostPosted: Tue Aug 27, 2013 1:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just to clarify on the manual trim override screw that takes a slotted screwdriver: It's not the access that is tight, but rather it was screwed in really, really tightly. So I wanted a really good fit on the slotted screwdriver blade before I "reefed" on it. Access is pretty easy through a hole made just for the purpose. The only possible "gotcha" being if the bulky handle of the screwdriver lines up just wrong with the side of the swim platform (mine just cleared).

I did see on a Yamaha 40 (carbed version) that the manual screw is the same but located on starboard side instead of the port side.

The camaraderie on the board is such a big plus Thumbs Up

Sunbeam
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South of Heaven



Joined: 15 Aug 2015
Posts: 1459
City/Region: Sharon
State or Province: MA
Photos: Blue Water
PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2016 11:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

**REPLYING TO AN OLDER THREAD***

Sunbeam: Any more issues with your F80 as of recent? As we chatted about before I have an 2003 F80.....
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Sunbeam



Joined: 23 Feb 2012
Posts: 3990
City/Region: Out 'n' About
State or Province: Other
C-Dory Year: 2002
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Photos: Sunbeam
PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2016 11:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Funny you should ask (and since F80's are relatively rare on our boats, I don't see anything wrong with tacking onto this thread and keeping the info in one place).

Oh, before I start, side note which you may already know, which is there was also an F100 which is the old "same engine but tuned up" outboard scenario. The engine also morphed briefly into the F(?) 75, in I think 2004, before going fuel injected in (I think) 2005.

Anyway, on my sinking issue: I have not cured it yet. Not that I've been working on it 24/7, or even close. Brief synopsis (at the mo' I don't have time to review the entire thread, so sorry for any repeats.

1) After working fine since I got it, the engine started "sinking slowly." In other words, it wouldn't hold a trim or tilt position for more than a few hours.

1.5) I did have an issue with an M/Y Wedge failing during transport; not sure if that did anything and no way to really know if the two are related.

2) I spoke with a Yamaha service place and did some reading online and the consensus was to start by doing a manual purge thingie. What you do is raise the engine with the power tilt, then use the manual release to purposely let it sink down. Rinse and repeat 3 times or so. I did that and it "fixed" for about a week, but was then back to its old tricks.

3) Then the same service place said it was likely a couple of valves inside the mechanism. They didn't have time to make the repair then, and I was planning to have the engine off the transom soonish (required for this repair), so they recommended I buy the parts and do it myself when I had access (it's on the side of the bracket that faces the transom normally).

4) But I couldn't get the old ones out (was a wide slotted screw type thingie, aluminum of course, and you know how it can be very nerve-wracking to really "reef" on those due to slippage, etc.). I was on the verge of leaving for Powell, so just left it as is and lived with it. I run with the engine all the way down, and it can be run in shallow water drive as it doesn't sink right away; so it only meant that if I beached I had to use the tilt support lever. But I mostly anchor where I can leave the engine down anyway. So... Powell called, much as I hate to have things not working 100%.

5) Just a couple of weeks ago, I spoke with a local (different) Yamaha service place, and the head service fellow said if it were him, he'd actually start with the simplest thing, which is "rebuilding" the manual release mechanism. This is about $50 in parts, requires a circlip plyers, and can be done with the engine on the boat. Sounds good to me! It's a small ball, a couple of O-rings, that sort of thing. I ordered the parts and got a circlip plyers, but have not done the change-out yet. Since doing the manual release did fix it temporarily, there is at least a basis for hope that it might be dirt or something in that. A new trim/tilt mechanism is like $2000+ so that won't be happening!

6) If #5 doesn't fix it, I might try the valves that I still have (but requires lfting engine off transom again, boo); OTOH, I might like to put in a wedge (essentially makes the engine more "slanted" so my trim would be more "rangeful" so there is that. OTOH, I don't want to do that until I move my house bank forward, in case things are fine as is in terms of trim angles with less weight on the transom.

That's all I have for now. Hopefully your F80 does not have the "sinking sensation"! (Or if it does, and/or you know more, I'm all ears.)
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South of Heaven



Joined: 15 Aug 2015
Posts: 1459
City/Region: Sharon
State or Province: MA
Photos: Blue Water
PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2016 8:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why are the F80's so rare with our boats?? I was looking through the member list and didn't find many...Although I did see a LOT of Suzuki's. I'm partial to the Yamy's because my 16 had one as well.

Anyway, yeah I'll post up more info soon about my new to me F80 next week. The weather is in the 50's and 60's all next week and I'm officially starting my boat cleaning, floor project and motor spring commissioning. I'm also adding a new impellor, fuel/water separator, spark plugs, etc. I'm also gonna drain both of the fuel tanks.....start with a fresh slate.

Hopefully the motors even start! Never even tried before... Smile
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Sunbeam



Joined: 23 Feb 2012
Posts: 3990
City/Region: Out 'n' About
State or Province: Other
C-Dory Year: 2002
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Photos: Sunbeam
PostPosted: Fri Mar 04, 2016 8:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Phone reply, so brief. I think perhaps the reason that the Yamahas were more rare on C-Dorys of that era is that many of the dealers (and may e the builder, through whom one could also buy back then) had financing incentives with Honda. And Honda are good engines so not like you had to twist people's arms.

The dealer in Crystal River Florida seemed to sell 90% blue striped C-Dorys with 90% Yamaha power -- which in our time period meant F80. When I saw your boat I pegged it as a Three Rivers boat most likely.

Now there seems to be more even distribution of all the engine brands (not that there wasn't always but maybe to a lesser degree.
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dutch123



Joined: 01 Jul 2008
Posts: 197
City/Region: Prince George
State or Province: BC
C-Dory Year: 2001
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Reel Action
Photos: Reel Action
PostPosted: Sat Mar 05, 2016 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello sunbeam, I was reading your post and realized my Cdory is from crystal river as well and also has an f80. I had the exact same problem as you with the tilt cylinder and I ended up replacing the internals of the entire trim ram assembly. You can buy the complete unit with all seals and orings in place. I did this a few seasons ago now but I recall it being a fairly in depth job. The price at the time was around 700 dollars Canadian if I remember correctly. This was a safety issue for me as I eventually lost engine trim control while underway with the motor always going to the lowest trim position forcing the bow down farther than it should have been. Especially dangerous in a following sea. I would recommend doing this repair as my trim has been perfect ever since!
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