trailering with tilt lock lever

ssobol · Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 4:41 pm Post subject: trailering with tilt lock lever

My CD-22 has a Honda BF90D engine on it. This engine has the tilt lock lever that holds the motor in the tilted up position. While this lock is for storing the motor when tilted up, the guy who owned the boat before me used the lever to hold the motor in the up position when trailering the boat.

My boat needs to have the motor tilted up to provide reasonable ground clearance when transporting the boat. Is the tilt lock lever sufficient support to hold the motor up when trailering the boat, or should I get a transom saver?

With my trailer it may be difficult to get a transom saver that fits and holds the motor up far enough due to the overhang of the hull past the end of the trailer and the angles involved.

thataway · Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 5:29 pm Post subject:

There are many options. The previous owner is correct that the level is not made for the road, and stresses that it puts on the motor tilt lock.

I have used a Transomsaver, a block of wood, or one of the hard rubber blocks to both keep the engine up (clips over the lift arm on the center hydraulic cylinder) These are called "M-Y Wedge" Be sure that it is out before you lower the motor!

C-Dawg · Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 6:26 pm Post subject:

Jake B · Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 10:49 pm Post subject:

never heard of the M-Y wedge before. i have always towed with the tilt bracket down on my (last) 115 rude and current e-tech. I will definitely look into getting one of these now though.

Sunbeam · Posted: Thu Dec 06, 2012 11:37 pm Post subject:

I trailered with a ~1" dowel under my Yamaha F80 for the first 20 miles (motor gently tilted down onto a 12" length of the dowel), however the Yamaha dealer/service place I had trailered to said they didn't recommend that as it could damage the tilt cylinder somehow (I'm not sure how). I don't know if that's true or not, but they didn't have a Yamaha wedge to sell me, so there was no profit motive on their part anyway. I went ahead and bought an M-Y Wedge, which I've used ever since. It seems like a good product. I did slice an inch or so off the Wedge, just so my motor would not sit with the props sticking out quite so far aft.

Sunbeam

hardee · Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 5:17 am Post subject:

Sunbeam · Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 1:58 pm Post subject:

[quote="hardee"]

thataway · Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 2:16 pm Post subject:

Big engines will turn--and should be trailered either with the blocks as described or hard over. If you center, and trailer, many of our interstates are like a torture chamber, and there will be leaking around the seals of the Helm hydraulic pump! Believe me---1st hand experience!

ghone · Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 3:10 pm Post subject:

Bob is correct as usual. Folks wonder what the cd can take at sea. They can take Interstates with aplomb so the sea is easy. I haven't been shaken and stirred so hard before as on some California highways. I have taken to centring the ob and using a dock line to tie the cavitation plate securely between the tie down u bolts. The ram takes a beating on the road and it is good to take the tendency to move out of the motor.

Two Bears · Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 4:01 pm Post subject:

I have a Suzuki 90 and after a previous thread here I bought the MY wedge. The web site said it would work and the directions said it would work. However, the instruction had a muddy photo and I can't make it work on my motor frame.

I've tied a block of wood and wedged that down, but on a bumpy road it's always hanging after any distance.

I've now gone to trailering at full till up. My reasoning is that the motor is better balanced on the transom, and the forces are just down, rather than a twisting action when the motor is only partially raised.

Am I missing something?

Chuck

Sunbeam · Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 6:55 pm Post subject:

Connie Fisher · Guest

Take a look at; http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t=17224

Regards,

Ron Fisher

UncleRichie · Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 7:55 pm Post subject:

Hi ,
I have always tow with the motor up and the locks in 10 years now no problem so far ( if I remember right the factory said that up with the locks in that, that was the balance point ).
Richard

Captains Cat · Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 8:00 pm Post subject:

Here is is my personal experience with the MY Wedge Scroll down to see my post at 9:58 PM. My forgetfulness cost me about $600 to replace both T/T cylinders on a pair of Suzi 115's on CAPTAIN'S CAT. I gave one to Dr. Bob for his Caracal and the other one to a Brat for a $10 Tip Jar contribution. Dr Bob is too smart to make the blunder I did, hope the other Brat (don't remember who) is too. Be careful and don't forget they are they are there or you will destroy a lot of hardware. A 2x4 would be safer! IMHO Laughing

Charlie

thataway · Posted: Fri Dec 07, 2012 11:08 pm Post subject:

Actually the Wedge which Charlie gave me, eventually went to the next C dory--the 2006 22, with a 90 hp Honda. Maybe I knew I could not live without a C Dory when I sold Charlie "Thataway".

Yes, I have used wooden blocks in the past. The M-Y Wedge slips over the ram of the middle cylinder of the trailering tilt cylinder.

I have been told by a number of mechanics that the small tab is only a safety while working on the engine, and should not take the force of the engine weight while trailering. I have seen several which have broken when used this way. If you only trailer the boat a few miles to the ramp, most likely this will not be an issue. We trailered over 9,000 miles this year, and some years with the 25 we trailered more than that, over all types of roads.

As for the centering. I started off this summer with the Honda 90 centered. By the second night we noted hydraulic fluid on the console under the helm. Over all several ounces were forced out of the seals of the steering pump. We then placed the helm hard over and no more leakage problem. I do think that it was hard on the seals--there is a bit more "bump" as you turn the helm, but not enough that we have elected to rebuilt it yet.

There are M-Y wedges which go on the sides of the hydraulic cylinder which turns the engine--and these will keep the engine centered. Not sure if that answers your question SunBeam or not.

On the Caracal, it did come with a "Transom Saver" I have continued to use it. With the heavy rubber bungi cord which holds the transom saver in place, plus the design of the grip on the lower unit, the Suzuki does not seem to turn, this appears to be due to the design of the transom saver bracket on the lower unit.