Leaking Lazarette Hatch

Pat Anderson · Posted: Fri Jun 24, 2005 9:47 am Post subject:

I hope Jeff Messmer is reading this thread - for the MOST part it does not matter if the lazarette hatches leak a bit, you can store stuff there that can get wet. BUT on a lot of CD22s the 50A main breaker is located under the starboard hatch on the floor of the lazarette, right where the leaking water regularly drenches it. Leaking water corroded the connection between the wire and the breaker on our prior CD22, causing us to lose all house power at Sucia in February 2004. Then exactly the same thing happened to George and Penny on Wanderer on our post Eastern Shore CBGT Chesapeake Bay cruise earlier this month. This is a problem that needs addressing. Either the hatch needs to be fixed so it doesn't leak, or the breaker needs to be relocated so it doesn't corrode from being constantly wet. The breaker (or more accurately, the connections between the breaker and the wires) absolutely cannot be allowed to be continually wet. This IS a real issue...

Adeline · Posted: Fri Jun 24, 2005 3:48 pm Post subject:

Here is what I did. Adeline has the older style hatches and closures. They were designed to leak and they do it very well. I cut a piece of inner-tube in a slightly larger size than the closure. I radiused the corners. Cut 4 small rectangles of Velcro (Industrial Strength Adhesive) and placed one at each corner. I double stapled each of the pieces on the inner tube. This has been working for me for 16 years, even @ freeway speeds. BTW, it is also the same set-up I use for my window shades, except blue vinyl instead of rubber.

dogon dory · Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2005 1:50 am Post subject:

Sorry, Folks - Post Deleted By Author

Adeline · Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2005 2:00 am Post subject:

Sea Wolf · Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2005 2:38 am Post subject:

Dan-

Even the older model C-Dorys which have a different design on the hatch covers have much the same seal problem with water accumulating in the space between the seal and the deck top and no place in which to drain.

I suppose one could drill drain holes in the space and use very small tubes to drain the water off to some thru-hull type fitting in the side of the hull or to the bilge, but the diameter of tube necessary poses problems with probable clogging from random debris and from insects that like to hide out in such passages.

You're right, it's going to be a real bugga to fix!!! Joe.

dogon dory · Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2005 3:07 am Post subject:

Sorry, Folks - Post Deleted By Author

Sea Wolf · Posted: Mon Jun 27, 2005 1:08 pm Post subject:

Dan-

There's no simple way to build a raised coaming in the older hatch system, as the top of the lid is flush with the deck level, and the the bottom of the lid and the seals are below that in a depressed cutout with the seals mounted to the lip at the edges. Best way to deal with it would be to

1. install catches that hold the lid tightly against the seal,

2. don't open the lid very much, and

3. put stuff below the hatch that isn't water sensitive.

My port lazarette is set up as a live / bait well which has it's own drain, so no water problem there; and the starboard one has one of the batteries in it with the battery switch and other electrical equipment for the trolling motor, all of which is pretty well shielded and hasn't yet given me any problems with fresh water passing down through it in moderate quantities, but for salt water, I think I'd better install a catch that will hold it tightly shut.

Nice idea on the urethane adhesive! Joe.