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berryst
Joined: 14 Aug 2011 Posts: 135 City/Region: Kingston
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 1985
C-Dory Model: 22 Angler
Vessel Name: Margaret Ann
Photos: Sea Major
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Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 10:47 am Post subject: |
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I seemed to have missed what you were referring to ....did find the site.
Also I did see your pics and the windlass aka college student.
I thought those were called "winded lass"
Chris _________________ The road to hell is paved with good intentions |
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tpbrady
Joined: 08 Feb 2005 Posts: 891 City/Region: Anchorage
State or Province: AK
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Bidarka II
Photos: Bidarka
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Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 11:08 am Post subject: |
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Chris,
http://www.bosunsupplies.com/products2.cfm?product=S0120
Try this. _________________ Tom
22 Cruiser Bidarka 2004-2009
25 Cruiser Bidarka II 2010-2013
38 Trawler Mia Terra 2012-2015
42 Nordic Tug 2015-
28 KingFisher 2009-2014
14 Jetcraft 2000-
17 Scanoe 1981- |
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berryst
Joined: 14 Aug 2011 Posts: 135 City/Region: Kingston
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 1985
C-Dory Model: 22 Angler
Vessel Name: Margaret Ann
Photos: Sea Major
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Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 1:10 pm Post subject: |
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Tom, is this what you use? A snap swivel? Do you use a particular size?
I had never thought of this and it sure looks easier that pulling by hand. I don't have a windlass.
Chris |
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tpbrady
Joined: 08 Feb 2005 Posts: 891 City/Region: Anchorage
State or Province: AK
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Bidarka II
Photos: Bidarka
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Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 6:48 pm Post subject: |
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Chris,
I have a windlass, but when anchoring over 100 feet or so such as while fishing, I will pull the anchor with a buoy. It's much easier on all the parts especially the windlass as it is only pulling the rope in and then the chain. The anchor is on the surface. I use a steel ring that looks like a split ring with holes that overlap on the bottom. This goes over the rode, and then the stainless snap hook with the buoy attached is inserted through both holes and thrown overboard. Tie the rode off on a clete, back down from the anchor to be sure the anchor is in front of you, turn 45 degrees to port and start acclerrating up to 10-12 mph. Watch the bouy work its way down the rode the anchor will start coming up. If the anchor is hung the boat will go in a circle. I haven't had that happen personally, but it happens to charter boats in the Cook Inlet on occasion. They are anchoring in 150 to 300 feet of water. |
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berryst
Joined: 14 Aug 2011 Posts: 135 City/Region: Kingston
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 1985
C-Dory Model: 22 Angler
Vessel Name: Margaret Ann
Photos: Sea Major
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Posted: Wed Jun 20, 2012 7:09 pm Post subject: |
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Well, what can I say ....this is the coolest thing ever!!!
I am totally going to get hooked up with one of these rigs I just never knew they existed...never saw one being pulled. I am glad I stumble on this old thread in c-dory land.
Chris |
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Saxe Point
Joined: 24 Jan 2012 Posts: 77 City/Region: Sooke
State or Province: BC
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Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 12:21 am Post subject: |
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Most halibut fishermen here on southern Vancouver Island use the buoy system for anchor retrieval. The sportfishingbc.com web forum has posts containing everything you would want to know about how to set up the system and make it work. It is excellent. |
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Jack in Alaska
Joined: 17 Aug 2004 Posts: 1191 City/Region: Anchorage/Ninilchik
State or Province: AK
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 26 Pro Angler
Vessel Name: HIGH TIDE II
Photos: HIGH TIDE II
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Posted: Thu Jun 21, 2012 1:46 am Post subject: |
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I have been pulling my anchor, 20' of chain and 600' of 1/2" line with a buoy in the Cook Inlet since 1966. Estimate at least 500 times or more. I do not have a windless.
Only one time have I ever got the line near the motor and that was last week under real unusual circumstances.
I use the spring snap as shown above with a swivel and a 18" buoy. THe snap slides down the line and "catches" on a home fabricated barb right at the chain attachment point. When the anchor is jumping up and down it is up. Turn around toward the buoy and start pulling it aboard.
I also backdown 1st, then turn to the port side and the line/buoy go down the stbd. side. If the anchor is stuck on the bottom start going completely around in a big arc to stbd. being real careful not to run over the line. It is really not that hard to do.
It is best to pull up wind so that after it is pulled and you turn the boat towards the buoy the boat will drift towards the buoy. This works great if you are out alone. Just hustle your buns in pulling the line in so it does not go under the boat.
I made the barb by cutting the base off of a 6" nylon cleat. It then looks like a small rocking chair rocker. I then drill holes, about 8, in one end of the barb, then wrap it onto the anchor line by running the whipping twine through the holes and around the line then into the next hole etc. Secure it really well. The open end of the barb points towards the anchor. Mine has been on for 3 yrs. and it is still tight.
Good luck _________________ On the HIGH TIDE-II, wife Carolyn and I.....Another summer fishing on the HIGH TIDE II in the Cook Inlet at Cape Ninilchik, Alaska.
HIGH TIDE-II; 2005 26' ProAngler; 2003 200 Honda / 2009 9.9 Honda high thrust
No. CD026021I405; AK-5008-AK
MSSI No. 338143486(cancelled)
HIGH TIDE; 1983 Angler Classic 22'; 90 Honda/ 9.9 Tohatsu-sold 2009 to son Dan (flatfishfool)
Stolen & stripped in Aug. 18
Bare hull & trailer sold in Nov. |
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