Exposed deck holes

[ferret30]

Our 2006 22 had a cheap broken anchor roller when we got it and I've been getting things ready to replace it over the last few weeks. The (used) Lewmar pivoting roller that I have sits farther forward on the deck than the previous roller -- it has to for the pivoting part to clear the point of the bow.

This leaves 2 mounting holes from the previous roller exposed aft of the new one. I was going to do the undercut/epoxy process on all the existing holes anyway since they won't match the new hardware pattern, but I was wondering if it's ok to have exposed epoxy on the deck, or if this should really be covered by gelcoat.

As a temporary fix I could install bolts through the exposed holes, bedded with butyl tape, etc., just to cover the epoxy.

Thanks

[starcrafttom]

You do not have to cover the epoxy with gel coat unless you are worried about the looks. epoxy is for sealing holes and protecting the core.

[ferret30]

Great! I was just worried it wasn't an acceptable surface material, i.e. it would break down from UV exposure. If it's fine to leave it exposed then I'm happy.

[BRAZO]

[ferret30]

Well then, I've got a use for the old hardware! I'll just redrill after the epoxy cures and put the hardware back in.

[Sea Wolf]

The epoxy is far less in need of protection if it is pigmented, i.e., has color in it.

Clear epoxy does break down much more than pigmented epoxy.

The West system joins wood parts with clear epoxy.

I had a wooden mahogany cold moulded sailboat that we switched over from a varnished exterior to clear epoxy.

The epoxy clear finish did break down, though quite slowly.

Colored or pigmented epoxy stops the ultra violet light that does damage to the epoxy bonds at the surface of the coating.

Paint will protect the epoxy even better, but it, too, will have to be replaced as it breaks down.

This is my understanding, anyway!

Joe.

[thataway]

I agree that epoxy will gradually break down. It is slow, but best to not be left "bare". Pigment will help. It may yellow. You can fill the holes with epoxy, mixed with pigment and filler (cabosil is used to thicken the epoxy, and I also use high density filler--tape under the hole, so that epoxy will not "drip" thru.

After you can either paint, or cover with gel coat. If the epoxy is sanded and well cured, no amine on the surface, gel coat can adhere fairly well. You can use a dremel tool to make a similar non skid pattern, or make a mold from other areas of the deck, it the hole is in the nonskid area.

[ferret30]

For now I am just undercutting and filling the holes with thin then thickened epoxy as explained on the pbase website and brazo's thread.

I test fit my pivoting roller today and it actually won't fit because the front of the fixed plate it's warped (from contact with the pivoting plate I'm guessing) and won't sit even close to flat on the point of the bow. I done want to count on butyl tape on filing the gap and also would be concerned about damaging the point of the bow.

I also noticed that for the pivoting part of the roller to not hit the point of the bow, the front bolt hole would be so far forward that it would be imperator to get a decently sized fender washer up in the v berth ceiling. That's strange since I know there are other 22s with this roller.

So anyway, I'm going to fill these holes and then probably mount my fixed Lewmar roller instead. It's perfectly flat on the bottom and I don't plan on getting a windlass in the foreseeable future anyway.

[localboy]

There is a thread on the gel-coat repair class posted here http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t=14653 and some pics of the repair I just did for the swim step removal in my album here http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_albumName=album1535&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php