Battery Switch Location

Sea Angel · Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 7:42 pm Post subject:

Rob;
I think if you used the same(not inexpensive) setup that have, or chech the BEP manufacturer, you will see that the second engine can be isolated via the switches, or automatically, depending of your choice.

This is a link to where I got my info, but you can search their site for many options.

http://www.bepmarine.com/home-mainmenu-8/product-279/717-100a-twin-outboards-three-battery-banks

TIVO, LITL' TUG, has a CD16 and posted hit wiring. He runs 2 batteries and a single OB.

Art

C-WEED · Posted: Wed Jun 01, 2011 9:15 pm Post subject:

Rob:

I have a main and kicker. Standard two battery with 1,2, both switch. An easy solution to the kicker charger is to use two small battery clamps similar to jumper cable clamps but smaller. I leave them connected to battery one mostly. I can charge the other battery if needed or charge both by combining batteries thru the battery switch. Since the kicker is low amps I don't ever see the need to try to charge both batteries at the same time. It would be more advantageous to charge one, shut off kicker, switch clamps to other battery, and charge the second.

Just remember to never run both motors at the same time. Or if you have a need to run both engines: separate the main engine with the battery switch and make SURE the kicker clamps are on the other battery or it will cost you some $$$. I prevent this by only having one fuel line for both motors. An added benefit is the ability to run the clamps to another boat to charge or pop the kicker on another boat and go.

On edit: Just be familiar with how this setup works. A few rules to remember.

Never charge a battery with both engines charging same battery.

Never run the kicker WITHOUT the clamps hooked to a battery.

Never UNHOOK clamps with kicker running.

Never have main engine charging the battery while the kicker is charging the same battery. (Both engines operating).

rob bauerle · Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2011 10:59 pm Post subject:

Thanks chris those kicker battery clips are a dam fine idea

Captains Cat · Posted: Sat Jun 04, 2011 6:38 am Post subject:

Chris, great ideas but too many things for this old brain to remember! Heck, I can't even remember to take my M-YWedges out when I tilt the motors down.... Embarassed

Glad I just have two Main's and no kicker.... Mr. Green

Charlie

lloyds · Posted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 12:59 pm Post subject:

I had Les install the BEP system a couple months ago. I had two group 24 batteries to start with. I added another group 24 for a house battery. I started with that and the BEP system. Then, after having some problems and talking to Les, I took out the two group 24's and replaced them with 2 U1 batteries. Much smaller for starting. After starting they charge back to full within 30 seconds or so. Then after they are up to 13.7 and 45 seconds goes by everything goes over to the house battery. Either one, or both engines (honda 35's). Initially they weren't making the switch, but we discovered the relays have a very small ground wire tucked up under them and it has to be run to the common negative buss. I did that friday, and saturday gave the system a try. Worked like a charm. I ran the furnace, all the instruments, sirrius radio, and the radar, and returned home after a day and a night on the hook, with a fully charged house battery. Pretty foolproof system. I may add another house battery if I add refrigeration, and use a manual switch. Haven't decided yet if it is necessary.

Les Lampman · Posted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 12:50 pm Post subject:

Electricity is a funny thing for folks: some understand it, some sort of understand it, a lot don't understand it at all. For folks that have a good working knowledge of electricity and their systems there are lots of ways to make things work. The same way an experienced driver can make a 15-speed Road Ranger transmission work in a semi...most of us have automatics in our cars and trucks (or maybe a 5-speed). That there is the gist of the difference between setting up a good system or setting up a tolerable system. It's all in the understanding.

Realizing that most folks drive automatics (statistically anyway) I tend to install systems that don't require much understanding from the owner/operator (do you really want to know how that automatic works?). Most folks derive pleasure from using the boat (a few sick individuals actually derive pleasure from working on them) so another goal is to keep the system working 100% of the time without user intervention.

Technology has given us the means to do so simply and without extraordinary expense. In fact a look at the West Marine Advisor will show that their recommended system is simple, robust, and easy to use.

You can flip switches, keep track of the last time you chose a different battery, look at the voltage to check to see if you need to charge a battery, etc or you can install a system that requires you to place the battery switch in the "on" position and then go boat...your choice. Smile

Aurelia · Posted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 1:36 pm Post subject:

Those little hidden ground wires got me too and I was trying to convince myself it was working but I just couldn't find the proof. They were not even mentioned in the included wiring directions which I still have and confirmed it.

They have been working perfectly after hooking them up and I almost feel like I have too much power available now. Two 27s, Two 31s, and a plug and play 24 (435AH total) if I get greedy.

I love those little U1s and wish I had an excuse to get one. They seem like a great little size for powering a small trolling motor on a dinghy.

rob bauerle · Posted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 4:19 pm Post subject:

thanks guys for the great advice, now I've just got to get to work and do it.

lloyds · Posted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 4:38 pm Post subject:

I love the U 1's, probably dropped 80 pounds off the starboard stern. Can't imagine what a negative would be, as long as I have the house battery. One of the best investments yet.

Aurelia · Posted: Wed Jun 08, 2011 5:48 pm Post subject:

If I keep the boat long enough to wear out the year old starting batteries I already have, I think I will look into replacing them with U1 size units.

nimrod · Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2011 12:02 am Post subject:

Les Lampman · Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2011 4:30 pm Post subject:

nimrod · Posted: Tue Oct 25, 2011 8:47 pm Post subject:

Cool! Less worries Les!