Bottom Paint Questions

Grumpy · Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 8:27 am Post subject:

I wonder why the "Copper River" salmon taste so good Laughing

Seriously, I guess we will all be happier when we can get something better for anti-fouling.

M

Grumpy · Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 8:58 am Post subject:

Correction to a previous post by me.

It's not the Interlux site that has the 3 recommendations it is Pettit.

For SS and Bronze they are:-
Good,
Sandblast or abrade surface, Spray zinc coat, Barnacle barrier 3 - 4 coats.

Better,
Metal primer 6455/044 1 coat, Tie coat primer 1 coat, Vivid anti-fouling 2 coats.

Best,
Sandblast or abrade surface, Metal primer 6455/044 1 coat, 4700/4701 Pettit Protect 2 coats, vivid antifouling 2 coats.

My only comment is that at approx $70 per quart for some of the above I went with the simple solution at about $26 and will repeat it as necessary.

M

Alok · Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 10:10 am Post subject:

Regarding the transducer-

I have a Raymarine transom mounted transducer with a paddle-wheel. I tried the transducer paint sold at marine stores- did nothing to prevent barnacle growth. Now I just slap a couple of layers of Micron CSC right on the transducer housing when I touch up the bottom. Works like a charm. Note: YMMV.

The transducer housing is a plastic material- it is not metallic.

Matt Gurnsey · Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 3:42 pm Post subject:

Grumpy · Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 5:13 pm Post subject:

Thanks Matt,

I had noticed that these new paints were becoming available and that's a good move by NMTA even if it is motivated at least in part by prudence.

Do you know how effective the Sea Hawk paints are for boats that get hauled out regularly or overwinter?? Some of the existing paints do not like that.

By the time my paint needs re-doing I hope there will be a number of alternatives together with some experience of their performance because it won't be the cheapest exercise in the world to convert to the faith.

Merv

starcrafttom · Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 5:42 pm Post subject:

as long as we are on the subject, How do i identify the bottom paint that is on my boat? it came this way and I have done nothing with it this last year.

I may be putting the boat in a freinds slip this summer while they are traveling.

NORO LIM · Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 9:16 pm Post subject:

Matt wrote:
[/quote] There are now products available that do not have copper in them, and we have switched over to using them exclusively. The product we are using is Sea Hawk Smart Solution ( http://www.seahawkpaints.com/Our-Products/Product/Smart-Solution.aspx ).
The nice thing is this paint can be used on metal parts as well as the fiberglass. Aluminum boats can be coated with the product without requiring expensive barrers to prevent galvanic corrosion.
The Northwest Marine Trade Association has begun work on drafting legislature to phase out copper based bottom paints over a period of years in Washington State.[/quote]

Even if it meant re-applying paint a little more often, this sounds like a good thing.

Matt, do you know if it's compatible with various current paints? For instance, I have CSC5583 Interlux Micron on my hull. Could this new paint be applied right over the old when it's time for a new coat, or would it be necessary to remove all current paint and strip the hull bare and start all over again? I went to the website you provided the link for, and it looks like maybe I'd get away with what they call "light sanding," but I'm a little uncertain about their references to current paint.

Larry H · Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 11:54 pm Post subject:

I am interested in using this new Sea Hawk paint on my boat and I currently have Interlux ACT, an ablative, on the boat bottom. (wears away like a bar of soap)

I contacted the Sea Hawk factory who sent me to a Seattle area tech rep. The rep said, yes, sand and apply. The Smart Solution paint is an ablative, so the existing paint can be the base for the new. If the color is slightly different, you can tell when the new paint has worn away.

It looks like this copper free stuff will be the wave of the future.

Larry H · Posted: Sun Feb 06, 2011 3:06 pm Post subject:

RE: Sea Hawk bottom paint compatibility.

Here is a copy of the chart from the Sea Hawk website.

Matt Gurnsey · Posted: Mon Feb 07, 2011 12:55 pm Post subject:

Good chart-

We've found the guys are Sea Hawk to be most helpful.

While the original non-copper products were nearly twice the price and lasted half as long, the latest products are competitively priced and look to be lasting as long as the copper products (two seasons in our waters normally).

So far we've been happy with the product and the support. We expect we'll see Pettit and Interlux introducing similar products as demand for non copper solutions increases.

slapshot · Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 12:46 pm Post subject: Painting trim tabs

Our boat has been in the water since April - bottom is painted. We've pulled it out twice (for first service and for hurricane) and had it power washed. Trim tabs were just awful with barnacles. Glad to be able to see details on painting the trim tabs by searching this site. Next time it's out of water - trim tab painting time (after washing again).

jennykatz · Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 2:38 pm Post subject: bottom paint

When we had a wet slip on lake Washington in Bellvue we had a 1989 (new) Seaswirl cruiser which we left in the water from April - Dec and never painted the bottom I would pull it out 1or 2 times in the middle of summer to clean it . no problems . fresh water is so much nicer on your gelcoated bottom . I love lakes and rivers for maintenance and all around boating .If I would have kept the boat in salt water would have painted the bottom .

Down here in Naples we have to pull the boat out every few months and clean it and then paint (touch up) every 9-10 months .salt water definatley does a job on everything .

starcrafttom · Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 9:41 pm Post subject:

two things I noticed this summer. One. the bottom paint on the 27 does just fine. I got very little if any growth on the hull where the bottom paint already existed.

Two. on the trim tabs and transducers where I used a spray paint can of "growth inhibitor" I got nothing but growth. I did not work at all. waste of my money. next time I will just use bottom paint.

Another thing I noticed is that as the west coast in requiring less or no copper, I saw a lot of ads for east coast companies offering higher copper content??? guess as we limit copper here they have to sell it some where.

NORO LIM · Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 9:52 pm Post subject:

nimrod · Posted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 5:24 pm Post subject: another paint question

I've been doing some screw-hole patching both above and below waterline with epoxy per Dr. Bob's recommendations.

Now that I've got the patching done, I'm wondering if I need to apply gel-coat over the below-waterline patches or can I skip the gel-coat and just apply a primer and bottom paint?

I'm pretty sure I need *something* over the raw epoxy to protect from UV but not sure what's best.

jd