Mounting a kicker on our 25 Cruiser

[localboy]

Our 25 has a 150 Suzuki. We've done two seasons w/out a kicker but I'm considering adding one this season. Not really for fishing but more for a "get home" engine. I've read numerous posts re: other experiences and have done research on the inter-webby re: possibilities.

We're considering a Tohatsu/Nissan 9.8 or a Suzuki 9.9 w/ electirc start (alternator) w/ backup manual start option. I'm leaning towards the Tohatsu/Nissan as it's lighter and less $$.

I'd like the ability to steer from the helm and plan on mounting it on the starboard side. This position just makes more sense to me; the cables/fuel line etc exit on this side & I'm moving the swim step to the uncluttered port side to make using it easier (no cables to step over). I've looked at the Garelick adjustable (model #71090) and the TH Marine Mini-Jacker. I also found this option from Panther
http://www.marinetechproducts.com/pages/FixedOutboardMotor

The Garelick unit just appears to have a lot of "stuff"/weight hanging off the transom. I like the simplicity of the non-adjustable fixed mounts however.

So my questions:
Opinions of the Panther model.
If I used the Garelick is steering off the main possible?
If I used the Mini-Jacker or Panther will the engine drag thru the water even while tilted up?
By using the fixed Mini-Jacker or Panther I assume I need a 20" shaft engine? By using the Garelick a 15"?

So lets hear it. Goods, bads...pros, cons. Sorry for the long post and as usual, MAHALO for the input.

[hardee]

Mark,

As you probably know, I am in favor of having a kicker. I was just wondering if a 150 Suzi would fit along side the one you have

It would definitely "get you home"

Wish I could help you more.

Harvey (a definite proponent of twins)
SleepyC



NOW BACK TO THE BUSINESS AT HAND

[GOYO]

Hey Mark,
We had a kicker on the starboard side on GOYO. I used the mini jacker and a panther marine tie bar. It worked well. The only caution for you is be diligent about measuring clearances as the kicker is stationary and you need to fully rotate the main motor. 1 inch to close to main motor can cause all kinds of interference problems. We did not have any issues with drag on the kicker, it would be in the water periodically but never felt the drag. Good luck with the install. Any questions give me a call.

[SENSEI]

[centerisland]

[thataway]

I agree that a "high thrust"- (swings larger prop, and lower gear ratio in the lower unit) makes much more sense in a "kicker". The 20" length is also better, in getting the prop below the bottom of the boat, and keeping the motor out of the water. The adjustable mount allows you to bring the motor up high enough so that the lower unit does not drag. You do not want the amount of spray/splash with the lower unit of the kicker in the water at planing speeds! At lower speeds, there is not all that much drag. There should be enough room with the 150 Suzuki--it is not that much wider than the 130 Honda I had (I have the Suzukis on the Tom Cat). 9.9 HP is more than enough--6 hp will get you home nicely--if you need it. 6 HP will drive the boat at hull speed, and it takes a lot more to do faster than that. The only question is the necessity of the electric start and the alternator; vs the weight of the larger engine.

[Jack in Alaska]

I highly recommend the kicker with high thrust and electric start with alternator as well as manual start.
Twice in my boating experience I had to use it. Both times anchored up 10 miles offshore in 200' of water fishing. After 5 hrs. of radios on, electric reels and wash down pump weakened the battery. The main engine just clicked when trying to start it. I manually started the kicker and let it run at about 1000 rpm's for 45 min. THe main engine popped right off.
Another time the main engine was dead and we pulled the 600' of anchor line and anchor using a ring/ball pulling with the HO kicker in 5 mph tide current. It pulled it w/o any problem.
It also pushed me back to shore at hull speed.
The main engine had a loose ground lug on the engine block.
You are only coming this way once. Buy what you need to be safe.

[Matt Gurnsey]

We've used the Mini Jacker to mount kickers with good success.

The newer Suzuki DF9.9A with electric start comes in at 96 pounds, so it's right in line with the other 9.9 sized motors out there. There is also a four blade prop available for these engines that works well in getting extra bite in the water.

We also use the Panther Marine Tie Bar. We like that it disconnects when not using the kicker.

[journey on]

I believe in got-me-home motors, and I'm cheap. So whilst there is such a motor on Journey On, we also use it for the dinghy. We take the motor off when we're towing the boat, so light would be good. And finally we have used the motor to get-us-home; of which the moral is: don't use plastic propellers.

Combining all of the above, here's my thoughts. First, one of the foremost criteria is light weight which Tohatsu wins. By the way, Honda loses that round. Second, dependability is important, and all the 4-strokes seem to be about the same. Third, 10 HP is going to drive that boat so one doesn't need a 15 HP motor that weighs more. And last, if you're gong to use that motor in an emergency, you may not have a good battery, as discussed above, so why get an electric start? If you need battery charging, get a small Honda/Yamaha generator which you can use while trolling and at anchor. Saves motor weight, about the same total price and adds more options. As for the high thrust, check with the dealer as to the props available for what you're buying

Journey On has a Garelick mount, which goes up to keep the motor out of the water and down to make mounting the motor easier. Whatever mount you use, make sure ALL OF the motor is out of the water.

You can see the installation in Journey On Pics , as well as the way we change the motor to the dinghy.

Good Luck

Boris

[416rigby]

I put a mini jacker on our 22 and it works great. The stainless connector rod from Cabela's is only 50 bucks and has a quick disconnect on each end. The kicker is a Nissan 8, with electric start, very convienient as we use it for trolling, and it has rope start for a back up.

Rick

[centerisland]

[localboy]

All great info and I thank everyone for their input. Hopefully, more will chime in.

In thinking about this I have to say I think Dr. Bob & Boris are correct. Do we really
need the electric start option? Probably not and it goes against the KISS rule. So, upon looking at the available engines, I think we'll probably just get a manual start; it will cut weight & cost and make using/installing it simpler. Plus I could easily remove it while the boat is on the trailer so it doesn't "grow legs" and dissapear at 2 in the morning.

Those of you that used the mini-jacker, is a 20" leg enough?

I like that option simply because it is less moving parts vs the Garelick mount, although, I wouldn't be against using a Garelick if it keeps the engine/prop etc out of the water. I must admit, I've never really paid attention to what others have & how they're mounted. From speaking w/ Matt when we bought the boat he is of the opinion that a 9.9 is more than sufficient and a 15 is overkill. We'll continue to use our 2.5 Suzuki for our small inflatable; it's light, easily moved around and the dinghy can only handle a 4 horse [max] anyway. The 9.9/9.8 will be a dedicated kicker as a result.

[eNORMous]

I have a 150 Suz w/ 9.9 kicker on my 25 Cruiser....me likes alot.

Kicker Mounting Bracket: Garelick (Mftr) Model #71091 Heavy Duty Outboard Motor Bracket

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_albumName=album902&id=CIMG0416resized&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php

[localboy]

[eNORMous]