Unsealed bilge screws

Aurelia · Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 2:12 pm Post subject: Unsealed bilge screws

I was checking floats on my bilge pumps yesterday and the good news is they both work. The bad news is the basket on the cockpit bilge felt loose and a light tug pulled out all four unsealed screws holding it down to the floor. I poked around with a sharp screwdriver and could push into the circular depression area that the bilge rests in. This boat has lived under cover and not had much use but there is water in that little pot some of the time and it seems to have found its way through the hasty factory install. I seems like others have found this mounting failure and just overdrilled the holes and epoxy fill/drill mounted the pump back in place. I will plan to just glue the basket down when I put it back in place. How should I approach fixing this area that is not very accessable? I am thinking hole saw and filler material but how thick is the hull in that little depressed area for the bilge pump? Do you think I have bigger issues that would require much more extensive repair? I am open to suggetions from those more experience. I really thought this was one place the factory would seal the mounting holes and actually put off checking because I thought it was built better than this.

See pic of area and holes in my album:

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_albumName=Aurelia&id=Picture_007&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php

Captains Cat · Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 8:11 pm Post subject:

At least you can get to it to work on it. Try it on a TomCat! Disgust

1. Don't do it in the water!
2. Drill in the center of each screw hole with a bit that has a flat end to it, not a long point, small at first, then larger.
3. Hopefully you won't find any wet stuff in there.
4. Drill until you have about a half inch hole in diameter, fill with epoxy, let set and drill new holes for your screws in the epoxy.
5. Let us know how you make out!

Good luck.

Charlie

Swee Pea · Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 8:48 pm Post subject:

What Charlie said, except, no need to screw the bilge "strainer bottom". Position the blue bottom (separate from the pump) then mix your epoxy (I used PC7) and set the bottom in the epoxy. Let the epoxy ooze through the four holes in the strainer then flatten or peen down. Let it all dry. I recently had to replace my bilge pump and used a chisel to remove the strainer. Easy and left a smooth base to epoxy over.

Works for me - and no screws.

John
Swee Pea

Captains Cat · Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 11:48 pm Post subject:

jkidd · Posted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 1:10 am Post subject:

My 2007 the strainer basket was just glued down no screws. So maybe they are listening.

Aurelia · Posted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 1:18 am Post subject:

Thanks for the info folks. I have been reading up on fiberglass/core repair so I think I am ready to get started. I have some materials to start with and hope to start drilling tomorrow. Followed by drying and sealing and filling and glueing the bildge back in place. Heres hoping I don't sink the boat as I will be doing it in the water...carefully!

Aurelia · Posted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 2:09 am Post subject:

Well it wasn't as bad as I thought. First of all, the depression where the bilge pump sits is actually just balsa with no glass over it. It only had a coating of some type of white sealant so all they did was cut a hole 1/2 inch through the glass, into the core and seal it with something like 4200 because it seems relatively soft. I used a 1 inch hole saw and bored about 12 rings 1/4 inch into the balsa beginning at the bilge holes and working outward. I measured a total of 1/2 inch to balsa down to the out glass layer of the hull. The wood was wet near the holes but thankfully became dry on all sides at about 1.5-2 inches from the holes. I could actually see the color difference in my cuts. I soaked the area with some acetone after force-fan drying the area for the last 24 hours and now will leave a larger fan on it for a couple of days to dry thoroughly. I will then use a penetrating clear epoxy to treat the core material then a filler epoxy to fill and smooth out the whole bilge depression. Or I guess I could just coat it with 5200 and call it good.... I can't build it up too much or I will lose the depression to collect bilge water. Should go pretty well just requiring some patience. Thanks again for the responses folks and it's nice not to feel alone in these adventures.

Greg

Aurelia · Posted: Tue Aug 03, 2010 1:37 am Post subject:

I feel better now after four trips to the boat and lots of fan drying time. Still can't believe they mounted the pump with four screws directly into balsa.

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_albumName=Aurelia&id=Picture_009&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_albumName=Aurelia&id=Picture_014&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php

Nunya · Posted: Tue Aug 03, 2010 9:00 am Post subject:

You also need to do your trim tab screws and your raw water thru hull. I found neither of these were sealed from factory.

Aurelia · Posted: Tue Aug 03, 2010 9:40 am Post subject:

Those are on the list for the next haulout.

journey on · Posted: Tue Aug 03, 2010 11:51 am Post subject:

Just installed a new bilge pump on Journey On. Same thing: no sealant on the bump base, BUT sealant on the hose. They must of put sealant everywhere but where it counted. Sealant on the plumbing?

They did put sealant on the trim tab actuator mounting which is above the water line, since I had to repair a hydraulic leak. Never looked at the tab mounting screws.

By the way, I installed a new Rule 1100A automatic pump. It switches on when it senses water capacitance. Anybody have experience with these?

Boris

mmitchell · Posted: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:33 pm Post subject:

Quality Craftsmanship Shocked