Trailer Tires

Wandering Sagebrush · Posted: Thu Jul 22, 2010 10:51 pm Post subject: Trailer Tires

Since my SWMBO (She Who Must Be Obeyed) has put a halt to a new trailer, I think(???) at minimum I want to replace the tires before the Lake Powell trip. The tires look to be in great shape, but are five years old now. I've never put any covers over the wheels to keep sun off.

So... The question is... is there a rule of thumb about how long a trailer tire is reliable? I thought I would pose the question to the group before I went down to Les Schwab's. I am sure that they would be more than happy to sell me a new set of tires.

Your thoughts? Hmmm, I just realized that I didn't search the forum. This may be a repeat thread.

Thanks in advance.

jkidd · Posted: Thu Jul 22, 2010 11:00 pm Post subject:

I think I would go for new tires. I would also repack the wheel bearings or replace if worn. Then I would bring a spare hub and bearings with you.

Wandering Sagebrush · Posted: Thu Jul 22, 2010 11:08 pm Post subject:

Jody, these are oil bath hubs. I am not sure what the options are for spare spindles/hubs... Maybe a call to EZ Loader is in order...

jkidd · Posted: Thu Jul 22, 2010 11:15 pm Post subject:

Mine are oil bathed as well. Jack each wheel up spin it and see if there is any play. With a long trip who whats to be on the side of the road. I haven't had mine apart yet. I should change the oil this year. So far I don't have any complants about the oil bathed system.

Sea Wolf · Posted: Thu Jul 22, 2010 11:24 pm Post subject:

This is a very interesting question!

You're right about the dealer being very willing to replace your tires!

Since you have a single axle trailer, the tire condition is even more critical than if you had a tandem, too.

But tires don't necessarily just get old and deteriorate on their own, right?

I've heard where some say that the rubber itself actually gets better with age, but that might have been back before synthetic rubber back in the Olden Days!

I do know that tires contain a chemical UV inhibitor in the rubber compound to prevent that type of UV deterioration that comes to the surface as the tires are rotated and heated, and that continual use, such as with a car, keeps the tire sidewalls fresh, but if they're allowed to set, as on a trailer or motorhome, they dry out and crack somewhat.

What do your sidewalls look like? I'd base my need to replace the ties on the sidewall condition, if the tread looks OK!

You might spray them with some type of good rubber conditioner to help them out. I do that on the ones on my trailers and motorhome.

I've got 8 year old tires from Cabela's on my tandem E-Z Loader, and they still work well for me, though I stick to trips of up to 350 miles round trip and less here in Northern California.

Joe. Teeth

jkidd · Posted: Thu Jul 22, 2010 11:40 pm Post subject:

This is up on Discount tire's web site might just be sales pitch. I don't have to worry about it because with the tandem axle when you turn around on the ramp you tend to drag one axle witch wears the edge off of the tires. In three years two tires have been replace and the other two are about to the wear bars. I probably have at least 7000 miles on the trailer. I ask the guy at Discount about switching to bais ply and he told me to stay with radials because they run cooler on long hauls.

Discount Tire Info
Trailer Tire Applications
•Trailer tires are designed for use on trailer axle positions only. They are not built to handle the loads applied to, or the traction required by, drive or steering axles.
•An "LT" designation on a trailer tire size specifies load range only. It is not designed for use on light trucks.
•Do not mount "ST" or "LT" trailer tires on passenger cars or light trucks.
Inflation
•Always inflate trailer tires to the maximum inflation indicated on the sidewall.
•Check inflation when the tires are cool and have not been exposed to the sun.
•If the tires are hot to the touch from operation, add three psi to the max inflation.
•Underinflation is the number one cause of trailer tire failure.
Load Carrying Capacity
•All tires must be identical in size for the tires to properly manage the weight of the trailer.
•The combined capacity of the tires must equal or exceed the Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) of the axle.
•The combined capacity of all of the tires should exceed the loaded trailer weight by 20 percent.
•If the actual weight is not available, use the trailer GVW. If a tire fails on a tandem axle trailer, you should replace both tires on that side. The remaining tire is likely to have been subjected to excessive loading.
•If the tires are replaced with tires of larger diameter, the tongue height may need to be adjusted to maintain proper weight distribution.
Speed
•All "ST" tires have a maximum speed rating of 65 mph.
•As heat builds up, the tire's structure starts to disintegrate and weaken.
•The load carrying capacity gradually decreases as the heat and stresses generated by higher speed increases.
Time
•Time and the elements weaken a trailer tire.
•In approximately three years, roughly one-third of the tire's strength is gone.
•Three to five years is the projected life of a normal trailer tire.
•It is suggested that trailer tires be replaced after three to four years of service regardless of tread depth or tire appearance.
Mileage
•Trailer tires are not designed to wear out.
•The life of a trailer tire is limited by time and duty cycles.
•The mileage expectation of a trailer tire is 5,000 to 12,000 miles.
Why Use An "ST" Tire
•"ST" tires feature materials and construction to meet the higher load requirements and demands of trailering.
•The polyester cords are bigger than they would be for a comparable "P" or "LT" tire.
•The steel cords have a larger diameter and greater tensile strength to meet the additional load requirements.
•"ST" tire rubber compounds contain more chemicals to resist weather and ozone cracking.
Storage
•The ideal storage for trailer tires is in a cool, dark garage at maximum inflation.
•Use tire covers to protect the tires from direct sunlight.
•Use thin plywood sections between the tire and the pavement.
•For long term storage, put the trailer on blocks to take the weight off the tires. Then lower the air pressure and cover the tires to protect them from direct sunlight.
Maintenance
•Clean the tires using mild soap and water.
•Do not use tire-care products containing alcohol or petroleum distillates.
•Inspect the tires for any cuts, snags, bulges or punctures.
•Check the inflation before towing and again before the return trip.
Keys to Avoiding Trouble
•Make sure your rig is equipped with the proper tires.
•Maintain the tires meticulously.
•Replace trailer tires every three to five years, whether they look like they're worn out or not.

Chester · Posted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 7:25 am Post subject:

Chester · Posted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 7:25 am Post subject:

jkidd · Posted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 9:30 am Post subject:

Chester

The axles are ok my last boat and trailer did the same thing, tandens will drag one axle sideways when you do a 180. When you do that on the ramp most of the weight shifts to the outside tires. Lake powell's ramps are not too smooth. I went back to my logs and roughly added all my trips up the tires have 16,680 on them at least.

journey on · Posted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 12:18 pm Post subject:

This summer we're doing the camping thing, visiting all the National Parks west of the Mississippi (almost,) And we're using our travel trailer, which makes me an expert on old tyres.

The trailer came with Goodyear Marathons, made in Canada. 4 ea. I believe that those tyres are good for 10 years. Also, replace the tyres before a trip so that you can get the tyre you want. For the rational behind these conclusions, read on.

We bought the trailer in '96 and that makes the tyres ~15 years old. How have they done? Well, the trailer has been in the San Diego sun for all those years, and is gets hot and bright inland. Didn't use it much, say 3000 miles max.

The spare, never used, blew up last year. it sat pointing south, but covered. Big hole in the tread from sun rot.

The 4 on the ground seemed to be OK, even though they were never covered. Went to Zion last year, and got a couple of flats, but got home so they did well at 14 years.

For this trip (2010) I bought a new Goodyear Marathon made in the USA!!!! 205/75/R15 is the only size made in the USA. Cost $100 out the door. Went with 3 old tyres on the road and a spare.

Coming into Grand Junction, Colorado, lost the tread on one of the old tires on the 3rd of July. Decided to replace all 3 old ones. On Saturday, July 3 in Grand Junction, Colorado all I could find were two cut rate outlets that had Chinese tyres. Turns out Goodyear dealers close on Sat. Now have 3 "Big O" Chinese brand, $75 ea. out the door with a 3 year warranty. So far (3000 mi) so good.

Boris

Stardust · Posted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 12:55 pm Post subject:

Discount Tires would not replace my mounted winter tires with my mounted steet tires because they were seven years old. Some new law. Strictly age, nothing to do with tread left. Don't know how this pertains to trailers.
Todd

Dora~Jean · Posted: Sat Jul 24, 2010 6:39 pm Post subject:

I replaced my 4, 2003 Carlisle tires in 2007 when 3 of the 4 showed large sidewall and tread blisters (like 3+ inches dia). I went to America's Tire (aka Discount Tires East of the Rockies -- I think that's the demarcation). I could have bought Goodyear's, waited 3 days and paid $40 per tire more, but went with their brand, Greenball made in China.

I went one load range up and to radials vs the bias Carlisle's. I have been extremely pleased with the ride and performance and durability of these tires. Items inside the boat don't "dance around" now on the highway, much smoother. Granted, only about 5,000-8,000 miles and 3 yrs, but they look really good. About $80/tire if I remember right.