Insulating the Hull in V-Berth area....

Casey

I find that sleeping in the V-berth when it's cold outside can be pretty uncomfortable if you roll-up against the (cold) hull.

On our previous C-Dory I use some 3/8" closed cell foam insulation layed in the space between the side of the hull and the edge of the mattress. It stayed in place and worked like a charm.

Problem: we sold Naknek, and I didn't have any more of the closed cell foam for the new boat (Katmai). ...but I just found another source.

Coleman (the campstove/lantern company) manufactures a backpacking sleeping pad called a "Rest Easy Camp Pad" ($10) made of light green closed cell foam. It comes 72" x 24" and 3/8" thick ... and works Perfectly!

Problem solved.

Best,
Casey

Rob & Karen · Posted: Thu May 27, 2010 11:27 am Post subject:

Hi Casey,

Did you mount the foam some way (adhesive), or is it just laying in place?

Rob

Casey · Posted: Thu May 27, 2010 11:55 am Post subject:

...no, I wanted to keep it Simple.

I just tucked the bottom edge of the foam into the crack between the side of the matress and the hull then tucked the top in. The 3/8" foam is pliable (but not floppy like foam rubber), and stays in place just fine.

Casey

thataway · Posted: Thu May 27, 2010 5:39 pm Post subject:

Those pads are what we have been using in all of our C Dories. In fact I have enough of them in the garage to completely line the roof (including the cabin) of the Tom Cat--just haven't gotten around to it yet. We tucked them in on the 22 and 25. For the Tom Cat, they are just on the outside hull parts, and tucked in also.

When we finally insullate the cabin top, we will cover the foam pads with some vnly attatched with 3 M spray adhesive. (we will use that same adhesive to attatch to the top of the cabins).

Yellowstone · Posted: Thu May 27, 2010 5:57 pm Post subject:

Casey - I used a different approach. Bought some of that polyester ultra solf fabric about 1/8 " thick and split the 4 ft. bolt in half. That material does not unravel. Then sewed some 1/2 " velcro on the top edge which adheres to a sticky back piece of velcro running at the top of the hull. Excess fabric is just tucked under the mattress. No more cold shock when the arm, feet, and shoulders hit the side.

John

SouthLake · Posted: Thu May 27, 2010 5:58 pm Post subject:

OK, this is probably a stupid question but if you do insulate the roof or hull and cover these pads with vinyl do you have to use a vapor barrier of some kind?

Casey · Posted: Thu May 27, 2010 7:59 pm Post subject:

News Flash!

I just found the same product by a different company (...but 20" wide, not 24, and blue) at Walmart, and for $6.97!

Hmm...I wonder what kind of Chinese chemicals it's made-from? Looked ok though.

I'll let someone else respond to the vapor-barrier question; I really have no idea. On my installation the foam is essentially loose, so trapping vapor isn't an issue.

Best,
Casey

thataway · Posted: Thu May 27, 2010 11:28 pm Post subject:

We did the entire hull of our Cal 46 with similar type of material for our Alsaka cruising. No vapor barrier--not necessary. We used both fabric material, and a very thin formica (surplus from Douglas air craft--probaly what the inside of airplanes are lined with.)

Condensation was virtually eliminated.

Casey · Posted: Fri May 28, 2010 8:59 am Post subject:

Bob,

Prior to locating the closed cell foam sheeting (Coleman, Walmart, etc) I had looked everywhere for the same 3/8" material, and couldn't find it. Do you know of a source for larger quantities? (I don't really have another project in mind, but it seems like handy stuff, and I'd like to know where it might be purchased.)

Best,
Casey

thataway · Posted: Fri May 28, 2010 7:15 pm Post subject:

I had used something called "fish blanket"--and in the mid 90's was a common hardware store item in Alaska. A sheet was about $15 and as I recollect it was just a bit less than 4 x 8 feet. Not sure about that currently. I'll check on other sources--it has to be available in bulk.