Flushing Out Salt Deposits Inside Outboard Motors

Tug · Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 10:49 pm Post subject:

My 70 HP Suzuki had salt deposits when i bought it...the pee indicator was very weak.I brought it to the dealer because i thought i may need a new water pump or impeller. Mechanic said both the water pump and impeller were good and that he had to clean the lines from salt deposites. He did mention Salt Away but said if i had the dispenser that CLR ( Calcium,Lime, Rust remover ) for plumbing would work just as good.I would of thought the CLR would be kind of strong to use in the cooling system. Tug

C-Hawk · Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 12:28 am Post subject:

rjmcnabb · Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 2:27 am Post subject:

Several years ago my O/B guru told me that a major source of salt buildup was from tipping the motor up as soon as you stopped it. This trapped water at specific points within the cooling jacket while the engine was still warm, and these sites were where salt accumulation occurred. That was for a small 4-hp on my sailboat. What I did after that was allow the O/B to cool, lift it vertically by the mount to drain, and only then tilt it. I've kinda followed that as best I can with a 90-hp, that cannot be lifted up. I idle the engine for a few minutes to be sure it is as cool as it will get, then shut it off and let it finish cooling with the prop in the water. Then I raise it incrementally, letting it drain what it can until it is all the way raised on tilt. He also told me that salt flushers were "soda ash" (whatever that is, and was not good for the engine. Soda ash sounds suspiciously like lye or KOH, either of which will dissolve aluminum while producing lots of free hydrogen Shocked

!! Flushing your engine with the hose connector runs water backwards through the cooling system, which is why you should not run the engine while flushing that way. Sleepy-C has pictures of this flush technique.
Rod

1TUBERIDER · Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 8:38 am Post subject:

I flush with a salt away solution poored in a flush bag, then I run the engine till the gas is out of the carb and call it good. I do this after each time out usually within an hour of trailering the boat.

I switched from rabbit ears a few years ago. I believe the immersion of the lower unit into the bag simulates it being in the water and I get a better flush.

I also wash the trailer rails on the inside with a hose used for watering plants with a salt away solution and wash the entire boat after each outing, flush the wheels and brakes to with the same.

This helps with the salt build ups.

If left moored I would try to flush with fresh water after each use and then if safe leave the motor tilted up out of the water.