Something Electrical Messed Up Again...

tpbrady · Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 3:35 pm Post subject:

I second Pat's comment about an Owner's manual. Art if you have one, can you scan it to a PDF file?

localboy · Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 8:10 pm Post subject:

Pat & tpbrady I think I have a PDF of the manual on my work computer. I'll look tomorrow and if I do, I'll let you both know.

And Pat you can remove the seat pad by simply lifting it up. Remove the drawer and you'll have enough room to work behind the water heater form above. MUCH easier. I know this because I broke off one of the switches on the circuit breaker assembly below the table. Rolling Eyes

I replaced it and will make a cover for it so it doesn't happen again.

Sea Angel · Posted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 10:55 pm Post subject:

I pulled my manual. I was Copyright 4-1-06; revised 8/21/2007.

Let's see if we can get permission.

Art

localboy · Posted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 9:26 am Post subject:

Pat Anderson · Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 12:23 am Post subject:

I don't think there is any issue at all...C-Dory (Jeff Messmer) uploaded all the other manuals here.

Sea Angel · Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 12:35 pm Post subject:

Pat, Tom, et all;

I just received a call from Sea Sport with the OK to place my copy of the
CD25 Owner's Manual on my album. It is NOT an official C-Dory copy of
the manual, but my copy that I'm allowed to share. As I am typing this,
the PDF file is on its way. This I have done under my Sea Angel
Documentation folder.

I hope this will help those of you who do not have this 84 page document.
It is very representative of most of the CD25s out there. The options we
have all encounterted will modify the manuals content needs, but it is
easily customized after you print it and add your own notes.

May you, and yours, all have a blessed, healthy and happy new year.
Art

Sea Wolf · Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 12:51 pm Post subject:

Art-

Very nice!

Thanks!

Maybe Bill or Mike could make a link from the Documents Forum to your Documentation Sub-Album so the Manual would be easier to find without searching through this not obviously related thread?

Joe. Teeth

Sea Angel · Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 2:52 pm Post subject:

My apologies for not knowing how to get the PDF into the document section of the 'library'. I have an e-mail to the "Big-Nerd",, Bill to help with this and I hope to send him an attachment of it. Meantime, anyone wanting a copy, please PM me at ka1rx@verizon.net and I will forward it to you.

If you have any other doc needs that I may have, you are all welcome to my notes.

Art

Captains Cat · Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 5:44 pm Post subject:

I was able to get the first two parts of the CD25 owners manual into the documentation section before I reached my "maximum Upload Quota Limit of 5 MB". I'll put the third section in there if the gods let me...

It takes a full version of Acrobat (not just the reader) to split the .pdf file.

charlie

localboy · Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 6:30 pm Post subject:

Looks like Art beat me to the punch. Well I have one if anyone has a problem. CoolSmile

Pat Anderson · Posted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 9:08 am Post subject:

Yesterday I was able to test the 10 amp Guest charger, and one side is dead. 120 volts going to her, 12.25 volts going out one side, 0.3 volts going out the other side.

To get to this sucker, you have to do a lot more than just take off the seat and remove the drawer. There is a solid piece of Decraguard under the drawer on top of the water heater. So I took that piece out. Then there is way too little clearance between the water heater and the Guest to easily remove it (I suppose a coordinated contortionist could do, but I could see I was not going to be able to. I wanted the water heater out anyway, we don't use it, and can use the storage space, so now it is OUT! Need to replace the FloJet anyway, so I needed lots of elbow room in there...the last piece I will remove before I start putting things back together will be the face piece holding the door. It was just too hard bending down over it, I want straight on easy access for replacing both the water pump and the charger.

Sea Angel · Posted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 4:48 pm Post subject:

Oh my goodness, Pat; Rolling Eyes

we have the same year CD25, 2005, and there is a structural difference
in the craziest areas. Go figure... Thankfully it is minor.

All this time and I thought the runs were not that dynamically different. I
just learned that change can be a suttle surprise, as well as a major in
this CD World.

Art

localboy · Posted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 4:57 pm Post subject:

tpbrady · Posted: Mon Jan 11, 2010 9:23 pm Post subject:

They were just messing with Pat, had an extra piece of Decragard and put it in.

Pat Anderson · Posted: Sun Jan 24, 2010 8:00 pm Post subject:

So the saga continues.

I bought a Guest 16202 10/10, and basically just wanted to replace the Guest 2610A 5/5 with the 16202 10/10. I have been working on this virtually all day and am just baffled.

I disconnected the wires from the Guest 2610A 5/5 and removed it. So there are three AC wires (black, white and green) in Romex and three DC wires (red with blue stripe, red with green stripe and black) remaining. The red with blue stripe runs directly to the house battery, the red with green stripe runs directly to the starting battery, and the black runs to one of the negative battery posts for the common ground.

I got the AC wires that used to go to the Guest 2610A 5/5 from the panel now wired to a standard AC outlet box with a cover next to the galvanic isolator. The outlet box works great, have had a light and my drill plugged into it, all good. The reason I did that is because the Guest 16202 does not have a terminal block like the 2610A 5/5, instead it has a standard cord with a plug. It likewise does not have a terminal block for the 12 volt outputs either, but two cords that each have a red and a black wire terminating in ring terminals, I think the cords are about 6' long.

I tested it when I brought it home, just connecting the ring terminals from each cord directly to the batteries and plugging the unit in to a 3-wire extension cord. Because the cords are so short, the charger was on the cockpit near the motor well.

The first thing you do is connect the 12 volt output wires to the batteries before you plug in the AC. There are battery type selection and charge status lights on each side, one for each output circuit. It first lights blue, meaning unknown battery type, and you can push a button to select flooded cell (red indicator), gel cell (green indicator) or safe mode (blue indicator). The status indicator light has three states as well, red (bulk charge), blue (absorption charge) and green (float charge). Everything worked fine for my test. The starting battery charged to a full charge state, and the house battery did not, my multimeter showed that it was toasted, only putting out 5 volts - not surprising since it was run down to a fully discharged state when the house circuit on the 2610A failed. I will get a new house battery this week, but in the meantime, I stuck a good little Optima Blue Top in the house side.

So now I mount the 16202 in the same spot vacated by the 2610A more or less. I clipped off the ring terminals, and connected with butt connectors to the wires running back to the batteries. The blue lights should have come on, but nothing. I tested the voltage on the wires coming forward from the batteries, and I had 12 volts.

I tested the charger again by bringing another battery into the cabin and connecting each side to it in turn. The blue light came on for each side. The voltage on that battery was lower than the voltage on the wires coming forward from the batteries in back, but when I connect those wires to the charger, it just does not recognize that they are there.

I did not try plugging the charger in, since the charger was not recognizing that there were even batteries attached. It is like it is limited to the length of the pre-wired cords.

So, anybody have a clue what is happening here or what I can try next?