Anchor Light Problem

[ddenver]

Another electrical neophyte issue.....Anchor Light not working.

I would have taken a digital photograph but the below diagram seems to illustrate the wiring of this toggle switch better.

We have a 2008 23' Venture. For some reason the anchor light is not working.... quite likely because there was a gray/white wire sitting there not connected to anything!!! Even after I plugged it in as shown below (assuming it is properly plugged) the anchor light did not work.

I am not sure if the Venture 23's wiring is similar to that of other boats but I would assume it is for the most part especially as it relates to the configuration of the Navigation and Anchor lights.

Anyway, the scenario is as follows:

We have a single toggle switch which activates both the running lights and is supposed to activate the anchor lights.

With apologies for the below simple diagrams the toggle switch looks as follows from the helm:

NAV
LIGHTS
|---------------------------------|
|.........................................|
| ............|------------| .........|
|.............| ... RI..... | ...........| RUN
|.............|------------| .........|
|.........................................|
|.........................................|
|.........................................|
|.........................................|
|.............|------------|..........|
|.............|.....RI......|............| ANC
|.............|------------|..........|
|.........................................|
|.........................................|
|---------------------------------|

... where "RI" are RED indicator lights and "NAV LIGHTS", "RUN", and "ANC" are labels on the top and sides of the switch.



The back of the switch in my cumbersome diagram below within the fuse panel looks similar to the following (each small box is a connector):


|------------------------------------------|
|....................................................|
|............|---------|....|---------|.........|
|............|...GW... |....|...BLK..|_____|___________
|............|---------|....|---------|.........|
|....................................................|
|............|---------|...........................|
|..~~~~~~W1..|..........................|
|..}.........|---------|..........................|
|..}.................................................|
|..#.........|---------|..........................|
|..#....+++++R....|..........................|
|..#....+....|---------|.........................|
|..}....+...........................................|
|..}....+....|---------|.........................|
|..~~+~~~W2....|.........................|
|.......+....|---------|..........................|
|.......+............................................|
|.......+....|---------|..........................|
|..+++....|..BLU....|..........................|
|..+.........|---------|..........................|
|..+.................................................|
|..+.........|---------|..........................|
|..+.........|...GRY...|.........................|
|..+.........|---------|..........................|
|..+.................................................|
|--+---------------------------------------|
.. +
.. +


From the above diagram.....

GW = Gray/White that I assume goes to the anchor light. This wire was disconnected. I tried attaching it here but anchor light still does not work.

BLK = Black " - " wire that connects to the "accessory" switch located two switches to the right.

W1 = Solid non-plastic coated wire which runs to a connector below as indicated by the " } " and " ~ " characters with the " # " in between.

# = Solid black piece in the middle of the non-plastic covered wire.

R = Red " + " wire which connects below the switch body as indicated by the '+' characters

W2 = Solid non-plastic coated wire which runs to a connector above.

BLU = Blue wire that runs off to ????

GRY = Gray wire that runs off to ???



Anyway, the scenario is as follows:

1) The Running lights are working fine and is activated when the toggle is in the "RUN" position.

2) The Anchor light does NOT work when the toggle is in the "ANC" postion NOR when the toggle is in the "RUN" position.

3) When the toggle is in the "RUN" position both the top and bottom "RI" (Red indicator) lights come on.

4) When the toggle is in the "ANC" position the bottom "RI" (red indicator) light comes on.


Since the Gray/White wire was laying there disconnected I assume that is the problem (duh???). I plugged this Gray/White wire into the connector as labeled "GW" above but the anchor light still did not come on but everything else (# 1 - 4) worked the same as noted above.

Is this the correct connector for the Gray/White wire which I assume is for the Anchor light? Or did this and some other wire somehow get mixed up?

The chances of both the bulbs being burned out in the anchor light seem pretty remote especially considering that the Gray/White wire was previously disconnected.

Any tips or suggestions would be appreciated. I bought a copy of "The 12 Volt Bible for Boats" and am reading it but I am still clueless. And I realize if I spent as much time studying the book as it took to do the silly diagram I would probably be an electrical expert instead of somebody challenged by changing incandescent bulbs at home.

Tanks,
Dan Denver

[flrockytop]

I don't have an answer but I do have a question. Has the anchor light ever worked? From what you have posted I'm guessing not. The fact that the red lights come on probably means that you are good to the switches and that the break is beyond the switch. If you have a contenuity tester/ volt meter start testing from one end or the other. I don't have a Venture so I don't know what the color code is that they use. On by 2008 the gray/white does go to the anchor light. After connectiong the gray/white wire and turning on the switches did you wiggle the anchor light bulb/fixture. Some times that where there is a bad connection.

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Dan,

My first thought was to check the condition of the contacts in the mount. I found corrosion in mine when I experienced a problem similar to what you've described. Check both the male and female contacts.

Steve

[ddenver]

The anchor light used to work. However; after I had it in the shop for another new boat warranty issue (among many things the CO2 detecotr was not working) it quit working but of course I did not notice this until I was back home.

Eyeballing things after it was discovered that the anchor light did not work led me to come across the disconnected gray/white wire which I tried plugging into the top left-side connector on the Nav light/anchor light toggle switch.

I opened up the anchor light bulb but all seemed to look OK there as far as I could tell.

Tanks for your suggestions.

Dan

[flrockytop]

[ddenver]

Greatly appreciate the comments Roger. That is indeed how ours seems to be plugged in.

I will re-visit the anchor light bulbs and insuring they are indeed getting current.

Tanks again,
Dan

[Will-C]

DDenver,
There are butt connections not to far from the light it self if you have the standard light over the visor above the windshield. You would need to drop the front panel down (3) screws. Might have to pull the tube type side covers the go up the port (left) and starboard (right) side of the windshield three more screws each side. Let me know if you want me to look at my switch to match colors and locations after I get home from my day job 5:30pm est. My boat (Bayliner wantabe) is an 08. I guess they build them the same way.
D.D.

[seabeagle]

We just got our vessel safety inspection and almost didn't pass because our lights didn't work. The anchor light was burned out and the running light stopped working because the wire pulled off the back of the switch. On the spot quick fix solved the issues. Both caused from vibration. both lights on the dash worked though.

[thataway]

get you digital volt meter out. Measure the resistance across the bulb filiments--it should show no resistance--meaning the light is good. Then measure the voltage between the two contacts at the bottom of the bulb socket--this should show 12.5 volts. There are likely several connectors along the way to the anchor light--both the bottom of the fixture the pole plugs into, in the pole, just below the socket, and probably near the panel as above. I suspect that one of these connectors is corroded or broken.

Incidently I assume that you have a separate stern steaming light. This is not really necessary, and I prefer the all around whiite light on the pole, and this decreases the current draw (of two bulbs as anchor light)--and I would consider replacing this with a good bright LED light (which I have done). This will decrease the current draw and give a better light.

[Sea Angel]

It sounds like the wiring has standard color code. The grey goes to the
running lites, the grey/white goes to the anchor lite, red is 12.6 VDC
power and black is common ground/return.

The blue wire is normally cabin lites and sometimes instrument lites, as
I understand it.

Across the "running"- "anchor" switch position connecting the grey wire(s)
to the grey/white wire there should be a diode. This device will look like
a small cylinder with a wire coming out each end. Normally they will a line
scribed close to one end. This is the end that should be attached to the
grey/white wire.

I would add to the earlier suggestions: to add an extension wire to your
black (neg.) lead of your meter, connecting the other end to a known
good power panel ground connection.
[You could even use an automotive test lite bulb testor for this.]

Use the the red (positive) to check if there is +12.6 volts at the anchor
lite base plug on the grey/white wire.
If there isn't 12.6VDC there you have an open connection.

If you have 12.6 VDC : "install a good" lite..
If it does not work, check to see if you have 12.6 VDC on the black
wire coming from the lite base... If this is true, you have an open
ground wire back to the panel.

It is possible someone could have placed a 12VDC on the return(black)
wire to the lite base. This should not blow a fuse, but could give a similiar
indication though you may see the affect with the running lites very lightly
lit if they complete the circuit.

Hope this is helpful.

Art

[hardee]

Dan,

Maybe a different approach, but I might try just running a second jumper wire from the switch to the connection point below the light post and see if that can get your light back.

I spent an afternoon, with help from Paul, and we never found out why my port running light would not work, just that it didn't, and then 15 minutes to just run a new line, works now every time.

Harvey
SleepyC

[C-batical]

Hi Dan,

I am sure that you probably have thought of this all ready, but if you haven't the bulbs that fit the Perko mast light used by C-Dory can be easily be installed incorrectly. The tabs on the base of the bulb that secure the bulb into the socket are at the same depth. As such, the bulb can be installed with the contacts on the bulb not mating up with the socket contacts. Rotate the bulb 180 degrees and the contacts will align. It is just a thought, but sometimes we overlook the simplest solution to our problem.

Best regards,
Rollie/C-B atcal

[mcc272]

I am rewiring my boat and need to get the correct diode that was mentioned in this thread by Art and Roger. I looked at Radio Shack on line and find a number of diodes. I don't know enough to pick the correct one. Does anyone have any guidance? Thanks in advance.

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Hi Jim,

I am not sure if there is an existing diode, or if it is long gone, but... If it is still there and needs replaced, you should be able to get a number off of the original. They are pretty easy to test with a good multimeter and an appropriate power source.

Regards,

Steve

[mcc272]

Steve --

Thanks but the original is gone. I just went out and measured the amp draw when using the anchor light and the two nav lights. They are all LEDs and the draw is 0.06A so I suspect that a 1 AMP diode will do but RadioShack also sells a 3A diode.

Jim