Outboard Winterizing/Storage

[cbadmin]

From: Mike (Original Message) Sent: 12/15/2002 9:01 PM
OK - I put the proper amount of Stabil in the tanks, filled them with fresh gas, ran the engines in freshwater for 45 minutes, and then unhooked the fuel lines to let them run out of gas. I found the drain plugs and emptied the carb bowls. Also ran water from the garden hose through the flushing port for a while to rinse out any crud from the lake. Backed the trailer into the shed and lowered the engines. I intend to put some fogging oil in the cylinders, but forgot to buy it. Anything else?

Those carb bowl drains are pretty slick (Honda). Instead of sticking a hose on the nipple, I just shoved the edge of a towel under the drains (except the lowest carb - it has a hose). The three upper carbs had very little gas left in the bowls (several drops is all), but the botttom one had enough to dribble for a few seconds. Is that normal?

The fogging oil in the cylinders is certainly a good idea, and it is pretty simple to do, but is it really all that helpful or needed? The engines are inside a shed (the boat is half in - half out, it's a poor man's shed). It will be about three months before they run again. What do you think - squirt the oil in the cylinders?

Thanks,

Mike

From: LesLampman Sent: 12/16/2002 6:37 AM
Hi Mike,

The lower carb usually does end up with a bit more fuel ... maybe it's a gravity thing .

I agree on the cylinder fogging...I don't think it's necessary for an engine that will only sit for 3 months or so. Most of us wouldn't even think about it for our cars if we were going to be away for that length of time.

Les

From: Mike Sent: 9/7/2003 8:37 PM
Most anybody you ask will say that the fuel tanks should be filled with fresh gas and fuel stabilizer for the winter layover, and I understand the wisdom in that. But how about having the tanks completely empty for storage? Is there some problem with that I am missing? The reason I ask is because I will probably remove the tanks to do some work beneath and behind them this winter, so they need to be empty for that. Why not just run them empty, rinse them with a little clean gas when removed, and let them dry inside?

Thanks,

Mike

From: Sawdust Sent: 9/8/2003 9:42 AM
Mike,

Sorry to keep you away from fishing (green with envy here)... it probably depends a lot on the temperature and humidity of the stored tank location. I've had problems in the past with condensation and water buildup in empty tanks -- most folks I know fill them and use stabilizer. My past experience has been with metal tanks, though, so might not be a significant problem with plastic or fiberglas.

Dusty



From: Chuck S Sent: 9/8/2003 11:51 AM
Drain the tanks, clean them and the filter inside the tank, and store the tanks dry. In the spring they'll still be dry unless you store them someplace they can constantly heat and cool and if you keep the valves shut there's no air exchange, so damp air can't enter. Run the gas from the tanks into your car or snow blower tanks.

-- Chuck