Breaking in new Yamaha 90 -- anything I should be aware of?

[Tortuga]

Tortuga now has her new Yamaha 90 EFI mounted and ready to go. Tomorrow I'll put her in the water for a ride. The manual gives a break-in regime that is pretty basic:

1st hour -- run engine at 2000 rpm
2nd hour -- run engine at 3000 rpm
Next 8 hours -- run engine at any speed but avoid opearting at full throttle for more than 5 minutes at a time.
After the first 10 hours -- operate engine normally

My dealer gave a somewhat different regime: For first 20 hours, avoid running past half throttle. He also said that full power won't come in until about 50 hours -- and if I run at WOT before 20 hours I can limit the engine's full power by 15-20%.

So, at the risk of overthinking this, should I just run according to the Yamaha manual -- possibly with the additional extra of avoiding WOT beyond 5 minutes until after the 20 hour service?

Thanks for any suggestions. Oh yea... I'll be running a 13.5 x 15 AL prop.

Matt

[Sea Wolf]

[Wefings]

What he said.
Marc

[ghone]

I'm breaking in a new Yamaha 75 EFI on my 19 and the manual is the same as yours. My dealer told me basically to follow the manual with varying rpms and go to wot for a few minutes every once in a while for 3-4 minutes. I think your dealer is being overly cautious and when in doubt I always follow the manufacturer because I bet there is a chip in that thing showing your history. This will be handy if you need any warranty work that you followed recomended procedures. You'll also hear from some dealers to just run them wide open right off the bat. That may not be so good. Have fun with that engine it's a beauty.

[Sea Wolf]

ghone wrote:

" I bet there is a chip in that thing showing your history."


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Wait until you see the printout from the dealer's computer!


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"Santa knows whether you've been good or bad"

"So be good for goodness sake"



Joe.

[Tortuga]

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions! I ran the boat today for an hour -- varying RPM up to 2000. A couple of things I noticed -- first, when putting the boat into gear (both forward and reverse) I heard and felt the gears engage with a much more apparent clickety click and thump (this was at low idle). I am assuming this is a function of the lower unit not yet broken in and am hoping that this will diminish over time.

I also noticed that my speed was lower at mid RPM with the new engine and prop than with the Yami 70 2 stroke. But, this is probably just a function of the gear ratio on the new motor and once broken in I can test different props. Obviously I haven't yet tried WOT.

I'll get to run the boat again on Monday. So far so good! Great starting -- much better charging than the old motor. Quieter (of course) and absolutely smoke free. How is that possible!

[Wandering Sagebrush]

[Sea Wolf]

Jut a note:

When you shift an outboard, don't try to go into gear slowly, that just makes the shift dogs (clutch) clatter for a longer period of time.

Wait for the engine to drop to idle rpm, then shift crisply and the shift dogs will quickly engage and lock up without clattering over each other for a long period.

There's no friction clutch in an outboard. The shift dogs are mechanical and look like this:



The internal splines are for the drive shaft, and the squarish projections are the dogs that fit into a receiving member cut out for them. Shifting slowly just grinds off their corners. A quick shift at low rpm and low torque/load engages them quickly without clanking their corners off excessively.

Shifting may seem smoother after some of the square corners have worn down a bit somewhat, however.

Joe.

[Tortuga]

That makes sense -- I did notice that as I stopped babying the shift and just popped it into gear it was less of an issue.