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Water intrusion from trim tab mounting?
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ripple



Joined: 07 Feb 2007
Posts: 65
City/Region: Mill Valley
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2006
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Ripple
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 11:08 am    Post subject: Water intrusion from trim tab mounting? Reply with quote

I have a 2006 22 cruiser, and while I have had no major problems with it, I have noticed some of the workmanship issues that are discussed here frequently such as the cabinet L-brackets being fastened into the balsa core (no oversize holes/epoxy filling).

I am planning on painting my boat bottom soon and storing it in the water this season. This got me thinking about the screws that attache the trim tabs to the bottom of the transom. Does anybody know how the factory attaches the tabs? It looks to me like simple sheet metal screws into the bottom of the transom. Has anyone heard of any issues with these screws being fastened directly into the core with no epoxy filler? Any other potential issues with water intrusion at the trim tab attachement points?

Thanks for any feedback...

Dougal
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Nan-C



Joined: 02 Apr 2007
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 12:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I also have the same questions about other factory work -- like the thru-hull for the cockpit washdown and the factory mounted engine.

Regards to all, Greg
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ripple



Joined: 07 Feb 2007
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City/Region: Mill Valley
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C-Dory Year: 2006
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Ripple
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 11:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi all - I posted this question a few months ago when I was going to paint my bottom and didn't get any replies so I thought I would try again. I am now finally ready to paint my bottom and I still have the same concerns regarding the trim tab installation.

Does anyone know if there have been water intrusion problems from the area where the mounting screws penetrate the transom below the water line.

Is it possible that these screws go directly into the core without the holes having been properly drilled out and filled with epoxy?

Thanks in advance for any insight.

Dougal
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416rigby



Joined: 31 Mar 2004
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City/Region: Port Angeles
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2001
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Foggy Dew
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 11:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pull the screws and see if there is water in there. If not, just coat them with sealant (I use 3M 4200 Fast Cure) and reinstall.

I pulled all the screws that are below the water line on my boat when we bought it...now I know for sure they are sealed.

Rick

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At last...home for good in the Great Northwest!

2001 22 Cruiser "Foggy Dew" 2006-2013
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CAVU



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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City/Region: Spokane
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C-Dory Year: 2002
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: CAVU
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2008 12:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dougal,
I could almost guarantee that your tabs were not installed with oversize epoxy plugs unless they were installed by an owner. There would be hours of labor involved and very high cost to to it that way. Careful installation and attention to good sealing with 4200 should give many years of reliable sealing. However I agree with Rick that at some point you should pull all the screws, clean, inspect and reseal or overdrill and epoxy fill. My experience with filling large holes on a vertical surface with epoxy was a little challenging trying to keep the filler from sagging out of the hole. I think it may not have been mixed thick enough.

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Best Day



Joined: 03 Apr 2006
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City/Region: Long Beach
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2008 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

From my limited experience masking tape over holes drilled in vertical holes works very well.

Bill
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 18, 2008 9:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, Frequent Sea, had water intrustion into the trim tab screws area. The wet wood was entirely routed out, the area reglassed and and faired. The screws were put back in with 5200, and the area bottom painted again.

This is why I keep harping on doing the installation of screws below the water line properly. As for the scuppers, there was not problem, but I did pull them, then cut back the core, epoxy filled, and filled the screw holes (after undercutting) and then re-installed using a sealant.

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Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
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ripple



Joined: 07 Feb 2007
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City/Region: Mill Valley
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C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Ripple
Photos: Ripple
PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2008 8:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the replies...

Bob-

Did you fill the holes with epoxy also or just seal the screws with 5200?

Dougal
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mikeporterinmd



Joined: 15 Sep 2006
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Vessel Name: Shelly IV
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 19, 2008 10:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You really should drill, cut the core back a bit, fill with epoxy and then
drill and install the screws. I don't know for certain what Bob did,
but I would bet a lot that this is what he did.

There are longer explanations in the archives should you need more
info.

Mike
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ripple



Joined: 07 Feb 2007
Posts: 65
City/Region: Mill Valley
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 2006
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Ripple
Photos: Ripple
PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 9:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I pulled the trim tabs off this morning and indeed the screws were installed directly into the balsa wood core with 5200 sealing the threads from water intrusion.

I bored oversize holes and routed out some core material, fortunately it was all dry. I have only ever had the boat in the water for a few days at a time, however, and I feel a lot more comfortable leaving the boat in the water full time now that I have filled the screw areas with epoxy.
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Spike38



Joined: 29 May 2008
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City/Region: Punta Gorda
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 2:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

In the case of smaller screwholes (NOT below the waterline) where oversized drilling may not be desireable cosmetically I'm wondering whether squirting in some "Git-Rot" (assuming it's still on the market) might be helpful. It wouldn't penetrate as well as if the balsa were presenting its endgrain but should penetrate some, hopefully well enough to seal off the surrounding core from water. Then followed, of course, with 4200 or similar. Not nearly the fix that overdrilling, undercutting and filling with epoxy is, but might be of help?

(Getting antsy up here in Maine with the new boat 1750 miles away!)
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Jeff Brigner



Joined: 13 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 3:08 pm    Post subject: balsa Reply with quote

I think I remember reading that you do not have balsa in the transom area. It is plywood and not of a marine grade.
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 4:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually, there may be balsa in the way of the trim tab screws--it depends on how the boat is made. If the balsa core (1" thick) is laid in before the plywood transom, it will reach to the back of the boat--or near it. There is also the possibility of a void there--where neither the balsa or plywood reaches this back area.

I had some wet core, plus some void. I cut out the superficial outer glass, re/laminated the glass to be solid to the depth of the screws, plus 1/4", with glass and epoxy--some fairing compound of high density was also use. But we were doing some transom repairs, so which might seem like a "big job" was only a minor part of it. Just under cutting with a dremel or an allan key etc, then filling with thickened epoxy would be proper.

Get Rot is too thin, on a vertical surface--it will not give adequate sealing, or enough material to allow the screw to bite into for safe long term holding.
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marvin4239



Joined: 06 Feb 2007
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2008 6:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On my 07 model I recently installed a new transducer and in that location it was balsa cored. I overdrilled and put in Marine Tex then mounted in the Marine Tex with screws and 5200. I regret not using a mounting block rather than screwing directly to the transom.
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Aurelia



Joined: 21 Aug 2009
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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2015 12:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just got our transom put back together after trim tab re-mounting.

If you wonder in the back of your mind whether something on your transom was installed properly, stop wondering right now and just pull some screws. Our boat had tabs purchased roughly 3 years ago based on a receipt I found but I do not know who did the actual installation or when it took place. They looked really clean and I could see a bit of sealant around the edge of the tab so I figured it was good. Well, some moisture nearby tipped me off enough to just remove the tabs and check.

The sealant around the edge was applied after mounting (for looks?) and there was in fact NO SEALANT behind the tabs or in the screw holes. Needless to say some of them were pretty soggy.

I did lots of hole enlarging/drilling and routing of wet core from outside and inside (bent nail really works well!) and jacked the boat up at an angle to drain remaining water out most effectively. After 3 weeks of fans and heat lamps followed by thin epoxy filling from the inside (just for good measure) and thick Six10 from the outside, I think we have addressed the moisture and small voids I created by removing some core material along primarily the bottom rows of mounting screws. It was actually a little surprising that most of the holes were not very wet and I count us lucky for that. They are re-installed into epoxy plugs now.

I also added a stern saver transducer block to eliminate three more holes so Ari is more water tight than ever.

Lesson.......don't just trust an unknown install... take a look!

Greg

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Aurelia - 25 Cruiser sold 2012
Ari - 19 Cruiser sold 2023
currently exploring with "Lia", 17 ft Bullfrog Supersport Pilothouse


Last edited by Aurelia on Tue May 12, 2015 1:03 pm; edited 1 time in total
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