kicker

[T.R. Bauer]

I am looking at putting a kicker on my CD-22 with twin 45s. I have a few questions for those of you that already have one: It looks possible and entirely doable, but is it? What is a good size kicker (hp) that is good for going 2-4 mph for king salmon? I really have no desire to go faster than that with it. What shaft length is best for the CD-22? Thanks in advance:)

[Spike]

A 8hp high thrust is a good choice, And if you mount on a movable bracket you can get by with a 20 inch shaft.

Chuck
Bootleg Hooch

[cemiii]

I have a new Johnson 9.9 4 stk (which is really a Suzuki DF10) and I love it. With a 10x5x4 prop. it gives me a speed from .5mph to just over 7mph and travels quite comfortably around 5-5.5mph very fuel efficietly. I have a freind who absolutely swears by by his new Yamaha YF8 hp on a 20' alumaweld which is likely enough hp for what you have in mind.

Seems though, that with twins, a third motor may be overkill (as an important feature of a kicker is normally it's get home security function). I would think you should be able to troll down to your range with 1 existing motor.

With twins it is likely that you will need a kicker bracket and probably some kind of a tie bar for steering as tiller arm is not going to work well on either side. That is, you'll likely need it in near full up position. There are remote throttle devices available to precisely control your kicker throttle without hanging out the back of the boat.

For a 22 you would need a 20" shaft if you were able to put it on the transom. On a bracket you could probably go either way, but I'd still opt long as it will be higher out of the water and easier to reach the controls. If you could go extra long (25")it might be even better. You might get it high enough to gain some tiller arm function.

Chris

[cemiii]

I went out and did a few measurements on my 87 Angler. Assuming yours is similar, there is only about 7" of flat surface on either side of the transom to mount a bracket above transom level. I guess they have mounts with bases that small but I don't know if I'd trust trailering a 4 stk on them with that much side torque.

I built a bracket that has a setback of 8" and rise of 6" above the transom for my 20" shaft. Though that put my cav plate an inch or two above the boat bottom, it's far enough back that it works great there, no cavitation whatsoever in any speed or sea condition I have encountered. By measurement, I would need to go probably about 8" higher and an inch back to gain full tiller arm control. So, even the 25" is unlikely to get you there. Although some of those market brackets get you back quite far. You might also have to either develop a custom bracket ( with a longer leg closer to the centerline) or use a jack plate such that you could get enough flat area for a sturdy base mount by mounting it below the transom level. I think any substantive mount is likely to require the removal of a fuel tank to put on.

If you've got lots of battery capacity, they do make those motor mount electric trolling motors that might also get to your speed range and provide ultimate quiet and fume free, fuel free trolling enjoyment. Probably with lower added weight too. As I remember, I think Sea Wolf has these.

Chris

[jlynch]

I'm considering the same option, I need to troll slower than one
of the twin 50's will provide.
See C-Daisy album. He installed a Garelick Model 71090 outboard
motor bracket on the starboard side. The footprint on the 71090
is 7 5/8 X 7 7/8. It had to be a tight fit but apparently it worked.

[Sea Wolf]

[T.R. Bauer]

I certainly appreciate the responses. Unfortunately, the 45 will get down slow enough for Coho, and other species, but you really have to go slow to catch kings. I was thinking of something really dinky as I don't need it to get me back, just to catch some kings.

[jlastofka]

How about one of these, which I saw at Cabela's site:



Or you could run one engine in forward and one in reverse and adjust the throttles to .....

Jeff

[cemiii]

how much room between the 45's? Some of the tiny 2.5hp's are only about 40# and 14"wide and come in 20" shafts for under 1000. It would be kind of nice if you could just hang it and take it off and bag it when not needed. If it would fit, you might even be able to create some type of fitting that you could attach the tiller arm to your tie bar.



http://www.nissanmarine.com/products/2_5_4.html

chris

[cemiii]

The key to slow with a bigger motor is really low prop pitch. If your rig rests on a trailer and not moored, it would be pretty easy to swap a prop (or both) especially if you are not making really long runs to get to the grounds. And you might be surprised to see how little you suffer on your top end as well.

I was running 26.4 top end on a 70 hp with a 13x15 prop. I switched to a 14x11 and lost just over 2mph top end and low end was dramatically improved. I think I can easily get under 4 mph with my 70(11p). As I said above, my 9.9 kicker with a 5 pitch will get me down well under 1 mph, great for kokanee salmon before the wind comes up.

Keep an eye on e-bay for a really low pitch alum. prop (on the cheap) that will fit your motor.

Chris

[Sea Wolf]

[jlastofka]

On further thought, I don't think I understand the problem. I have a Honda VTEC 90 with the stock 15" pitch and I think it will run the boat any speed I want from darn near zero up to 30 mph. I haven't actually tried to check the idling speed, but I bet it's under 3 mph. I guess now I need to test that next time I'm out. It must be I'm under the wrong impression or this thread wouldn't be here, but it sure seems odd.

What if you tilt the engine up a fair amount to reduce the prop efficiency? What about a removable version of the flat plate I pictured? I'm sure you'll figure something out, but my 22 seems a little tail-heavy with a 90 and a 9.9. I don't think I'd like mounting a third engine back there.

How about a pair of metal channel rails vertical on the transom and a metal plate or wood board that slides down vertically into the water? Maybe 8 or 10" wide, going a foot or two into the water. LOTS of drag there. Cheap, lightweight.

Jeff

[T.R. Bauer]

Thanks everyone. My Honda 45 will get down to about 3mph and a little slower. I think I will check out the trolling plate and see what that does. Once again, I appreciate your insight and responses.

[starcrafttom]

that trolling plate does not come down until you pull the spring release, but does go to the up and lock postion when you take off. Well it locks any time you get above 3mph or so. I have used one on a number of fishing boats

Oops. wrong plate, there is another on that you want that does not drop down until you release it. I will try to find a link. its a heavyer unit. the one above is only good on trolling motors or mains below 25hp.

HERE IT IS

[Sea Wolf]

Tom-

I had one of those Cabela's trolling plates you noted.



Worked pretty good on my old Evinrude 90, but was somewhat of a pain to remember to release the mechanism when locked in the up position ( to get the plate down to troll), and if you left it in the down position and took off at 1/2 or more throttle, it would shear one of the brass sheer pins and you had to take 10-15 minutes to replace the pin, which required going ashore or to a dock.

It's also hard to get exact control of your trolling speed with a trolling plate and a big outboard. Certainly not very stealthy, either!

Ultimately, the main hold back plate developed fractures in the plastic casting, and it now sits out in my RV barn.

I'm not convinced lower pitched props are the answer, either. The boat is so easily driven at 1-3 mph that the lower pitched prop just slips less, easily going 2,3,4 or more mph.

Maybe the bucket draggers do have the KISS solution, after all!

I still like the Engine Mounted Trolling Motor, but it requires lots of battery power, and only works on inland lakes or situations with little wind, current, and from 0-2 mph (or 3-4 with a BIG thrust/high amperage electric motor.)

Joe.