15H.P kicker

C-WEED · Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2004 12:34 am Post subject: 15H.P kicker

I can get a new 4 stroke 15H.P. yamaha kicker cheaper than the 9.9 or 8H.P. I remember reading about a few of you that had them on a 22ft boat and liked the power. My question is where and how did you mount them? I would prefer on the transom next to the main. I haven't seen the 9.9 or 15 in the flesh to get a size comparison. I heard the 9.9/8hp will fit the transom next to the main motor. Anybody try a 15 on the transom?

Chris

TyBoo · Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2004 1:24 am Post subject:

Hi Chris -

I had a Honda 8 on the 22, and have a Honda 15 on the 25 (both of them are the "classic" design). Never looked at the things side by side, but they are similar in size. Checking the Honda Marine web site shows they are (the new ones, anyway) essentially the same weight. I don't know how the Yamahas compare - to each other or the Hondas - because my computer virus protection prevents me from going to their web site. (Sorry - that was just a joke to get old Red Fox riled up a little.)

I know in the Columbia River, which can have 5 knot current and a stiff wind at times, the 8 HP wasn't used much for trolling. Not enough authority to keep the boat straight and moving.

I also know this: Whichever motor you choose, if you clamp it directly on the transom of a CD 22, it will drag in the water when on plane. The transom angle is such that it will not tilt up enough, and it leaves the skeg and a good part of the prop kicking up the water.

To fix that, a few folks have put the motor on a fixed bracket; not necessarily to raise it up any higher, but to get the mounting board closer to vertical so all of the available swing in the tilt mechanism is used. It works great, although it might be harder to get a tie rod to work well between it and the main. But it does make for a little more room to steer it with the tiller handle. Here is a layout sketch that can be used to make a custom bracket for the CD 22 transom that will get the mount hanging nearly straight up and down. If you can figure out what the drawing is supposed to mean, and have a sheet metal shop cut and bend a piece of 10 ga. (.120") stainless steel plate in that configuration, you'll give yourself a lot of options for hanging any old size kicker motor you want. After the bracket is all bent up, you can make a mounting board to bolt to it. Then using some c-clamps and a chunk of 2x4 to protect the inside of the transom, just clamp the thing on your boat and hang the motor on it to check the location before marking and drilling the holes.

C-WEED · Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2004 7:23 pm Post subject: 15H.P

TYBOO MIKE:

Thanks for the information and the line sketch. I get the jist of what your saying. The lead on the engines are about 10 hours drive away. I sure wold like to see a real one before I buy. And like the idea of a 15 H.P. running at 1/2 throttle over a smaller motor running full open.

How does the 15 H.P move your 25 along?

Chris

TyBoo · Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2004 7:36 pm Post subject: Re: 15H.P

C-WEED · Posted: Fri Aug 20, 2004 7:52 pm Post subject:

About the same as the 8 moved the 22 along. Sheesh - I just can't win!

I thought your reply might be that as I hit the send button. Everything is porportionat. My main is an 80H.P. It moves ok at wide open throttle but I don't run it there. RED FOX has the best set-up going with the 115HP loafin along at a good cruising speed. I sure am jelouse. Thanks for the pointers, I will pursue the 15.

Chris

Sea Wolf · Posted: Sat Aug 21, 2004 5:44 am Post subject:

Chris- Don't forget to check the prop pitch out on any kicker motor you buy. If the motor comes with the standard supplied prop, it will be appropriate for a 12-14 ft aluminum boat that weighs 400-700 lbs, not a 22 foot, 3000 lb C-Dory. The much too steep standard prop will overload the small engine, limit its rpm and power development, cause it to run hot, and shorten its life.

I changed the prop on my Johnson 15 kicker to 5" instead of 10", and it was a totally different motor.

You can also buy a "high thrust" style motor that has a larger lower end unit (and prop diameter) from a higher H.P. motor that has a better momentum transfer ratio and results in better thrust for the same H.P. If you go this route, be sure you get the larger lower set up, not something just labeled "high thrust" without any real changes to make it work better. These motors were specifically developed as auxilliaries to push big sailboats around more efficiently. HTH, Joe.

Sea Wolf · Posted: Sat Aug 21, 2004 5:46 am Post subject:

Chris- Don't forget to check the prop pitch out on any kicker motor you buy. If the motor comes with the standard supplied prop, it will be appropriate for a 12-14 ft aluminum boat that weighs 400-700 lbs, not a 22 foot, 3000 lb C-Dory. The much too steep standard prop will overload the small engine, limit its rpm and power development, cause it to run hot, and shorten its life.

I changed the prop on my Johnson 15 kicker to s5" instead of 10", and it was a totally different motor.

You can also buy a "high thrust" style motor that has a larger lower end unit (and prop diameter) from a higher H.P. motor that has a better momentum transfer ratio and results in better thrust for the same H.P. If you go this route, be sure you get the larger lower set up, not something just labeled "high thrust" without any real changes to make it work better, These motors were specifically developed as auxilliaries to push big sailboats around more efficiently. HTH, Joe.

C-WEED · Posted: Sat Aug 21, 2004 9:37 am Post subject:

SEA WOLF:

Roger that. I have noticed some high thrust models have different gear ratios to squeeze more torque through a steeper blade. Yet most small engines 8 - 15 H.P. come standard with the same pitch blade. If they come with a blade at all. Some want you to pay extra.... for the blade. What a shame. The search continues....