twin 40's question, maybe a dumb question

[Gregw]

Is it possible to mount twin 40's on a CD22 far enough apart to fit a swim ladder in between? I'm guessing there would be a steering control rod that you would have to step over?

I will be single-handing the great loop and would like as much motor control as possible. So I thought if I could separate the motors, even with a custom bracket system, that would allow using the motors to steer in awkward places.

[Da Nag]

Between - probably not.

To the side - it's been done. The step is slightly smaller than stock, but works just fine.



Use the search, enter swim step for the terms, and DaveS for the author - you'll see plenty of posts on the above.

[rogerbum]

As to the other portion of your comment/concerns e.g. single handling a CD 22 with twins - that's easily done with the standard mounting. Adding a bracket to get the engines a little farther apart seems like a very expensive solution to a non-problem. Many of us single hand our twin equipped CD 22s frequently and I'd bet none of use ever had a desired to have the engines farther apart to improve maneuvering. The only time things can get a bit tricky is approaching a dock in a cross wind that takes you off the dock - these boats have a fair amount of windage and not much boat in the water so they blow off the dock quickly.

For me the key to single handing the boat has been to always have a stern and bow line hanging into the cockpit so I can ALWAYS exit with one in each hand. I have a 50' line tied of at it's center on the bow cleat with 1/2 running down each side and a 20' line tied on each stern cleat. I set them up so that they drop into the cockpit just near the steps so that when I get to the dock, I can jump out with both ends of the boat under control. That and some good fenders and you've got nothing to worry about. In a strong cross wind, you just have to be a little aggressive about putting the boat in tight to the dock and a little faster than normal. Give a quick burst of reverse to slow it to zero, and jump out in a hurry. It's very manageable that way.

The other thing that can come in handy when docking to starboard is to have a 10-12' line tied off to the midship cleat. Depending on the dock, I can often reach out the window from the helm and loop that line over a dock cleat (I've also done it from the cockpit), Then with a little forward momentum, the boat will pull right into the dock. I then put the boat in gear to hold it tight and secure the bow and stern. Either of the above techniques work fine and either are only necessary in high cross winds.

[dotnmarty]

Following up on Roger's comment- I keep a fish gaff at the helm. It gives me an extra 2 feet of reach out the window and the hook grabs the dock cleat. Saved me lots of trouble.

[starcrafttom]

I have a single but i do have a few tips on docking.
1) practice. No really just go out for the day at your local ramp and just practice up wind and down wind approaches.
2) I did have my ropes like rogers but I have recently changed to two ropes that are tied to the mid-ship points. I never really ran a line from the bow to a cleat so why have the rope at the bow at all.
3) cut your bow or mid-ship lines so they will not reach your motor if you drop it in the water or it starts dragging.
4) PRACTICE.
5) place tie downs of some sort to hold your lines when not in use. I have 4 plastic line holder. 2 at the back of the cabin, one to a side and two more in the motor well.
6) practice.
7) the flat bottom c-dory will dock better in reverse when the wind is blowing then going forward so PRACTICE THAT TO.
get a steering knob
9)once you learn to dock well teach the wife to do the same.( or get some one else to do it)
10) have her practice.

[tom&shan]

[Sea Angel]

I ditto what Tom, et all, have suggested.

To keep your lines clear in the cockpit, may I suggest using
the sailor's favorite HARKEN, Cam-Matic Cleats [approx. $29ea at WM].

You may see these cleats mounted on Sea Angel's pixs under
modifications. I use different color line for the bow[1/2" gold] and
breast line[ 3/8" blue] to set them apart when I'm in a hurry.

Art

[Jazzmanic]

Dakota Tom,

ROFLMAO!!!

[Gregw]

Thanks for all the replies! I have read several of the twin vs single discussions and know there is no single right answer. I did read several times that having the twins right next to each other did not give you full advantage of opposing motor direction. So I thought if you could get them as far apart as possible I could maneuver better in close quarters and still fit a full sized swim step in between. (I have a Machinist friend who can make any type of ss bracket just for material cost) This is just something I was thinking about.

My experience is with a single engine runabout type boat and I'm definitely in the same camp as Tom with the bump and touch method of docking, especially in windy conditions! I've only test driven a CD22 once at Welfings, an am concerned about single handing. (Great folks by the way)

I take it from your comments that having twin engines does not play that big a part of your single hand docking methods. It's more a combination of well placed / ready to go docking lines, working through the helm window where needed and something called PRACTICE. Can you use the gaff through the helm window for locking through?

BTW great set of modifications Art, a tinkerer at heart.

[thataway]

Although I don't single hand all that much, I do regularly and find that control with a single outboard is fine (a lot better than many inboards or I/O's I have owned).

Agree that practice is the key--I personally don't see that much advantage of twins in this size boat--as far as handling--I am sure that you have seen all of the other arguements for singles with a kicker, but one is that a kicker can be hand started very easily. Sure I have hand started 40 hp engines 50 years ago--when there was no other choice--but I prefer the single engine.

You will probably have the boat fairly well loaded if you do the loop--and so weight is a factor.

Be sure and stop at "Camp Thataway"--we are about 12 miles off the ICW--but its worth the drive up Perdido Bay. Be sure and keep a blog going on the trip.

[dotnmarty]

[Gregw]

[starcrafttom]

Here's something to think about. The biggest mistake I see people do on a boat while docking is not using the wheel enough and in the wrong manner. I can turn my boat with a single in a complete circle inside its own lenght, I got a case of beer to bet if you think i cant, and the key to this is a wheel knob and neutral. I never but the boat i gear until I have the motor turned in the direction I want. So many people go from forward to reverse and then turn the wheel. Well now the boat is starting to move in the wrong direction while you are moving the wheel. This takes up time and space. if you are moving back ward to the left and need to turn forward to the right you need to A) stop the boat- so go to neutral turn the motor to center,then a tap forward. B) neutral again and then turn the wheel to the right while you are stopped, then you can put the boat in forward again. by doing this over and over you can do a complete circle in a single boat lenght. If you can do that then you can dock anywhere.

Now for the big question on horse power. if you dont have it you can't use it, but if you do have it you don't have to use it. I like to get going when the weather tells me its time to get going. Not that it helped in the lighting last week but we would have been worse if we had not gotten up and ran.

[thataway]

The term "Wheel Knob" crops up now and then--this is also known as a "spinner" in the marine world, and a "Brody knob" when I was a teenage-some time ago. The better ones have bearings and allow rapid spinning lock to lock. I agree that they are very helpful in small boat handling.

With the 4 stroke engines, I am not sure that there is any real advantage in fuel consumption with using a kicker. The majority of boaters do not use their kickers--except perhaps as very slow trolling motors.....see my post on Tom Cat speeds. 8 hp is probably all that you need with a CD 25 to make 5 knots--and that is what will be an economical speed. I have had several questions off list about how to get a "kicker" to give more speed. Basically if you can put on a larger prop (diameter, blade area and low pitch) you can be more effective pushing a boat at displacement speed. I used my 3.5 hp dinghy motor as a kicker on my center console--which has the same weight as a CD 25--and it will push the boat at over 3 knots in smooth water. Granted that it will be hard for a smaller motor to push the boat in heavy winds or waves--but there are other problems in these conditions--including cavitation if the prop comes out of the water with waves....

[dotnmarty]

Back when I had hair (on my head) we called them "necker knobs"! Thanks for the memories.

MartyP