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Corrosion from Galvanized Chain
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Fishhawk



Joined: 18 Mar 2007
Posts: 245
City/Region: Bon Secour
State or Province: AL
C-Dory Year: 2006
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Osprey
Photos: Osprey
PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 11:00 am    Post subject: Corrosion from Galvanized Chain Reply with quote

Hi all,

After having the anchor and chain on Osprey for only a month I noticed some ugly interaction between the galvanized chain and the stainless bow cleat. It seems there has been a transfer of metal or metal oxide to the cleat. Rather unattractive.

I'm looking for advice. Are ya'll using some other type of chain or can this be somehow avoided? I'm also interested in knowing what is best to use for a quick connection twixt rope and chain.

Thanks in advance for your sage replies.

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Hunkydory



Joined: 28 Mar 2005
Posts: 2652
City/Region: Cokeville, Wyoming
State or Province: WY
C-Dory Year: 2000
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Hunkydory
Photos: Hunkydory-Jay-and-Jolee
PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We use a white, I think rubber coated chain for the first four feet from anchor. Keeps damage to a minimum around the anchor cleat, deck and stainless entry to the rode container. Bought it through West Marine.

Jay

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Sea Wolf



Joined: 01 Nov 2003
Posts: 8650
City/Region: Redding
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 1987
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sea Wolf
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 7:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

FishHawk-

Since you're in Minnesota, I'm assuming you're operating in fresh water.

I use 100 feet of GS high test galvanized chain (with 200 feet of three strand nylon tail), a Fortress High Strength Aluminum-Magnesium anchor, a stainless swivel link, a an Quick Aires aluminum/stainless/ and brass windlass, and a Simpson Lawrence stainless pivoting anchor roller without any corrosion between any of the metals, all in fresh water.

I don't understand why you would be getting corrosion unless one of the metal parts is charged with stray electricity, is wet all the time, is exposed to salt water or spray, or one of your components is made up of an inferior grade of metal such as poor quality stainless steel or impure zinc used in galvanizing. To quote Shakespeare: "Something is rotten in Denmark."


Here's one of the simpler rope to chain splices for three strand nylon:

3-Strand Rope To Chain Splice

Joe. Teeth Thumbs Up

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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 20779
City/Region: Pensacola
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: thataway
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 28, 2008 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you wraping the chain around the bow cleat? If so--don't. You should either use a bungee cord or piece of line between the anchor shackle and the cleat. The SS and galvanized metals will interact. When you use thimbles and shackles with galvanized chain, they should be galvanized (or nylon for the thimble)--not SS. Sometimes you can get away with SS, but other times, it will cause electrolysis.

When you anchor, use a snubber (I use light 3 strand line, with a chain hook spliced to one end, and cleat the other end to the bow cleat).

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Thataway
Thataway (Ex Seaweed) 2007 25 C Dory May 2018 to Oct. 2021
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hardee



Joined: 30 Oct 2006
Posts: 12632
City/Region: Sequim
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
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Vessel Name: Sleepy-C
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 6:43 pm    Post subject: New rust remover "EvapoRust" Reply with quote

Went digging into the anchor rode locker yesterday and found that the chain (galvanized) has a white flakey deposit on it, looks like dried salt water, and the towel in the bottom of the locker is wet. Some of the sections of chain look to be rusted. Now I am wondering:

1. What is going on, since the anchor has not been out of the locker except for twice, both times on a dock for measuring and marking? The boat is stored outside, covered and has a Sprint 600 windlass, horizontal, and a separate hausepipe.

2. What is a good treatment for the rusty galvanized chain?

3. Has anyone had any experience with this product, "EvapoRust"?

http://www.evaporust.com/evaporust.html

Thanks for your response here.

Harvey
SleepyC Moon

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journey on



Joined: 03 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 8:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, when I was a kid, my mom used to put zinc oxide on my nose to keep it from burning. If I remember correctly (it was a looong time ago,) it was white. So if you're finding white stuff on your chain, I'll bet it's zinc oxide.

If the towel is wet, try to find out from where the water is coming. Also, since a chain is dragged along the bottom, run through a chain gypsy and dumped in a pile, paint isn't any good. I'd try regalvinizing.

Boris
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Dreamer



Joined: 01 Jan 2006
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City/Region: Really Sunny SaddleBrooke
State or Province: AZ
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Harvey,

I'd try laying that chain on the bottom for 2-3 days at a time! Swinging on the hook for a few days does wonders for the chain, the disposition, the relaxation... Pretty soon, you don't care about a little rust.

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hardee



Joined: 30 Oct 2006
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 9:02 pm    Post subject: possibilities of re-galvanizing Reply with quote

Boris, thanks. Funny, I don't remember Zinc oxide on my nose, but did use it on my kids for diaper rash prevention. Worked well there too. Wink

The boat has been covered and that should keep the water out of the locker from above, ( windlass or hausepipe ) but was out side at the mechanics shop for 3 weeks -- rain during then. Had a couple of instances of green water up to the bow roller last fall, but thought everything in there was dry after that. Will have to do more checking there.

Might look into the possibilities of re-galvanizing.

Still looking for in for on:

Quote:
3. Has anyone had any experience with this product, "EvapoRust"?
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DaveS



Joined: 01 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 27, 2009 11:44 pm    Post subject: Re: possibilities of re-galvanizing Reply with quote

hardee wrote:

Quote:
3. Has anyone had any experience with this product, "EvapoRust"?


A few years back I used some on my nose and I've not seen any rust there yet! Mr. Green

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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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City/Region: Pensacola
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 28, 2009 9:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unless you have a galvanizing facility nearby and have a lot of other material to be galvanized, it will be cheaper to buy new chain. (Our local galvanizer has a minimum of 300 lbs)--but many areas do not have local galvanizers because of EPA.

As for re-finishing the chain--probably the best thing to do at this point, is to use phosphoric acid to etch the chain, and convert the rust (oxide) to hard phosphate. Then spray with "cold galvanizing"--it will be much cheaper and probably last as well.
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Doryman



Joined: 03 Oct 2006
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 28, 2009 10:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thataway wrote:
Unless you have a galvanizing facility nearby and have a lot of other material to be galvanized, it will be cheaper to buy new chain. (Our local galvanizer has a minimum of 300 lbs)--but many areas do not have local galvanizers because of EPA.

As for re-finishing the chain--probably the best thing to do at this point, is to use phosphoric acid to etch the chain, and convert the rust (oxide) to hard phosphate. Then spray with "cold galvanizing"--it will be much cheaper and probably last as well.


This discussion reminds me of something I have long wondered about: what is the advantage of stainless steel for anchors and chain other than appearance?

Warren

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Dreamer



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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 1:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Warren,

Stainless anchors and chain give you a place to invest huge amounts of money! And they look cool...
Roger
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Doryman



Joined: 03 Oct 2006
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 1:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dreamer wrote:
Stainless anchors and chain give you a place to invest huge amounts of money! And they look cool...


About what I figured...

Warren
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journey on



Joined: 03 Mar 2005
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 2:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a thought. The Cold Galvanizing I'm familiar with is a primer with (I guess suspended) zinc in it. I've tried that on the trailer and it's just like any other primer, though maybe longer lasting. Anyone know of something different?

Boris
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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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Photos: Thataway
PostPosted: Wed Apr 29, 2009 6:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The cold galvanizing is just that--a paint with zinc suspended. It will do fairly well, as long as there is no wear and is kept up. It is only a bandaid, but much cheaper and easier than re-galvanizing.

I also end for end each year the chains--on cruising boats--in that case, the most wear is at the anchor end. Again--not necessary on C Dories--as someone --see above--says many C Dories are not anchored much (ours spend more time at anchor than at docks--but may be the exception).

Incidently the initial galvanizing is only about 10 mil thick--because of the process. A good re-galvanizing-hot dip, chain racks, with shaking will give 30 to 40 mil of galvanizing coating. But the high heat may cause some loss of strength of the HT chain. Not a problem with C Dories--but can be with high load chains.
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