anchoring a CD-25

[mmitchell]

Min 50' of chain. Keeps the anchor in the mud.

[starcrafttom]

Are you talking about a cleat
cleat or a chock
chock because a cleat is a great idea and a chock is not. Its all about the words.


p.s. on edit. I always go over the roller then to a cleat. Now that I am going to install a windlass I may need to repostions the cleat.

[Rob & Karen]

Tom,

I am talking about chocks. Why are chocks not a good idea?

I currently go over the roller to the center cleat. My plan was to add two chocks on either side of the roller. I would depoy and tie off the same, and then lift the rode off of the roller and into the chock.

Rob

[starcrafttom]

I think they are not a good idea because they are not on a center line and you will swing side to side. Also I dont think they are strong enough to hold if you really have a strong yank. Now that is for the small one I see on c-dorys . I dont have any on my boat and tie to the dock straight from the side and rear cleats. Funny thing is that I have my lines rigged for tying of from the side cleats and people are always grabbing my line when I dock and trying to run them off the bow and I have to redo them. On a c-dory there is not need for bow lines at the dock.

[JamesTXSD]

[Doryman]

I am currently tied up to a fixed dock with a completely different set of lines and fenders than I would use at home. I was told they cannot install floating docks here because the hurricanes would tear them apart. Fixed docks are a real PITA, especially when there are not enough cleats to do a proper job of running spring lines fore and aft as well as bow and stern lines.

Warren

[starcrafttom]

been so long since I tied up to a fixed dock I forgot about them. So do you guys trust chocks not pulling out if you take a big wave broad side? and what size do you have and how are they attached? not just screws right?

[thataway]

If you are having problems dragging, you are not using the proper anchor for the bottom. (Back to my advice to carry several types of anchors, which are suitable for various bottoms). More chain may help--but not solve the problem. Some is also technique of setting. Lower to the bottom, as the boat has stopped. Let the boat slowly drift (or in and out of gear to give slightly sternway) until 3/1 scope has been achieved. Check and see if the anchor is set. Slowing let scope out to 7:1, and apply reverse power, to be sure that the anchor is set. When we were cruising, where we anchored at lest 200 days a year--we would give at least 60% stern power (enough to give 4 knots if we had way on).

As for chocks--if properly installed and backed, and the correct type, OK--but I tend to avoid them in the C Dory or other small boats. I tend to put cleats near the railing, and then put SS rub strips on the glass where the rode or dock lines would pass over the glass. As Tom noted, most of the chocks are not sturdy enough to take a good load, they are screwed in place, and may have sharp edges which can abaide lines. I do not take the full anchoring load on the roller---I like to use a line to the bow eye (shackle), but you can loop around the cleat and on each side of the anchor roller (with the snubber line)--that way you don't chafe the anchor rode.

The chocks I like the best have a SS base, which is bolted thru the deck with a backup plate. They have smooth / rounded sides and a captive pin on the top. These are Panama Canal type acceptable (if you are taking your dory through the Canal....) But probably overkill for the C Dory 22!

[matt_unique]

I was considering chocks for my Tomcat but one thing I like to consider is consequence to line jumping the chock for whatever reason. In the case of the Tomcat, if a line jumped the chock, for anchoring or tied up to a mooring (not a dock) the line would be applying force to the windlass or stanchions. I did not like this idea so I made these instead:

I need to read the thread about how to use a single word set as a hyperlink....(maybe it works now).

I used the stainless steel you see on top as a backing plate and chafe protector, underneath I used much thicker steel as backing plates. I also overdrilled/undercut/filled with epoxy paste/etc. This arrangement works much better for anchoring and for securing my mooring pennant lines. My only regret was the proximity to the anchor, I need chafe gear on my mooring pennant lines since they will rub against the side of the anchor. With chafe gear this is a non issue though. Also, I could not install the cleats any farther apart without moving far over on the other side of the stanchion.

[thataway]

Matt,
Maybe I'm missing the link--but cannot see the photo--and didn't see it in the album.

This is why I like the captive chocks-or a cleat just by the railing. Probably dual cleats on the Tom Cat 255 would work, spread apart so that they would not chafe on the anchor or anchor pulpit.

My Tom Cat has the foredeck cleat athwartships just in back of the windlass, and is not a good location for anchoring. I use the bow eye with a snubber for the Tom Cat at anchor---but for temporary use, just look a large eye around the cleat and it will compress the windlass slightly. Again not the best. Eventually I'll put two more cleats on the bow one on each side--maybe all of the way out on each hull to make a bridle.

[Captains Cat]

Bob, it's in the "Installations sub-album" Here... It'll bring it up too if you click on the faint blue "these" in Matt's post, hard to see....



charlie

[matt_unique]

Thanks Charlie, my "these" link was hard to see.

Speaking of pictures, when are you going to add some Tomcat pictures to your album?

[Captains Cat]

As soon as I start using the boat again! Snow here today, not much by my usual standards but white and the birds are very nervous!

Come out to SBS next year, I'd like to meet you!

Charlie

[hardee]

I have been looking for something to work in the above situation for a while. Saw a device made by a company called "Newfound Metals" called a Cleat Chock. think it might work here. 3 sizes, all stainless. Sorry I can't bring the photo over but will try putting the link here:

http://www.newfoundmetals.com/catalog/pg08.html

and hope it works. $39 and change each but looked pretty stout when I saw them at the boat show. the company is in Port Townsend, WA

Harvey
SleepyC

[thataway]

Charlie, Thanks--It looks as if the line could hit against the edges of the plate, if they lead to one side. Is this a problem?

Harvey--interesting device. I see it has 3/8" studs, 2" long, so you need good access under the deck--and probably best to make a backing plate. Let us know how these work out. The rounded edges should avoid chafe on the line.