LEVEL your Truck and Boat trailer!

[Casey]

Let me share a few lessons-learned about leveling your truck and boat trailer.

When we took delivery of "Naknek" in July 2003 it was set up on a King 4000# double axle, bunk trailer with B-range bias ply tires. It "looked" acceptably level so we headed for Arizona. Everything seemed to tow fine, no sway, and very comfortable at highways speeds.

By April of 2004 we had about 5000 towing miles on the rig and I noticed Major wear on the inside shoulders of both front axle tires. Something was definitely wrong. Since the rear-axle-tires showed no wear I opted to rotate the tires to avoid a blowout, and give more time to study the problem. Sure enough, about 5000 miles later (on our way back from Prince Rupert) the front tires were again showing significant wear.

During all this I had consulted various folks at tire stores, and trailer manufacturers, etc. The fellow I spoke to at King Trailer advised me that with bias ply tires I could only expect upwards of 8000 miles on a set of tires! BS. The Very uneven wear pattern was telling me Something; I just didn't know what.

I figured the problem was that the boat was loading the front axle much more than the rear axle, and that was because the boat was too far forward on the trailer. I was only partially correct.

While back at the C-Dory Factory in July the folks there were very helpful. We measures the tongue weight (550#), overall weight 4900# (boat, motors, trailer, wet, loaded) and determined that the boat was properly placed on the trailer. (In my case, proper placement has the transom exactly even with the back end of the rear bunk.) We then measured the height of the trailer fore and aft. About 3" difference. Hmmm....

Next stop was King Trailer (Marysville, WA). Again, we measured the trailer to determine the degree to which it was out-of-level. Yep, that was the problem. Although the truck trailer rig didn't look grossly out-of-level it was enough to cause the uneven tire wear. I bought a new coupler, brought the trailer tongue up to the level of the truck, and things seems to be corrected (hopefully). The 1700 miles drive home was uneventful, and the new radial tires (C load range) show NO wear whatsoever at this point. Stay tuned. Oh yea, I also had them replace both front axle bearings that were shot, and repack the others. (If nothing else, I've learned that you can tow the C-Dory on one axle for a goodly distance if a tire blows! ...I was effectively towing with a single axle trailer.)

Moral of story: Check your truck/trailer for level!

Here's what the factory did:
(1) Hookup loaded trailer and truck (you want the load on the trailer hitch, as it causes the truck to "squat" somewhat thus lowering the overall level. Do the measurements on the most level ground you can find.
(2) Choose a particular point on the trailer so you get a standard measurement fore and aft (ie. top of the siderail).
(3) Measure the height as near to the hitch as possible.
(4) Measure the hitch between the double axles (or at the axle in the case of a single axle trailer).
(5) You now know how much your rig is out-of-level.
(6) Go shopping for a new coupler with the correct amount of rise! Your aim is to be within 1/2 inch of level (the closer, the better).
(7) Test drive your outfit for a few thousand miles while enroute to your favorite boating location!

[C-Bill]

Casey...

Is your trailer rated at 4000# GVW or is the amount of weight you can carry 4000# ? IMO you may still have problems.

Read my posts in the trailer section. You may interpret my posts as just another unhappy trailer owner, but the substance is there and I can support it.

Bill

[Casey]

As far as I know the capacity of the trailer is 4000# (they confirmed that at the factory). The trailer itself weighs about 1180 as I recall.

I also asked if there were any differences between the "structure" of my trailer and their 4600# model. Evidently the only difference is the tires they install. Presumably, by installing the C-Load Range radials, the (new) capacity is effectively 4600#.

...I'll read your posting(s).
casey

[TyBoo]

Good info. Thank you. I'll have to check the level next time the boat is on the trailer. I have noticed that the rear wheel hubs always get a little warmer than the front hubs. Maybe I need a little more drop on the hitch.

As for tongue weight, Les took the mystery right out of that for me. The first time I hitched it to the Dodge was at EQ. We cranked the jack off the ground and the back of the 1-ton pickup didn't even know it was sitting there. Les moved the boat about a foot and a half forward, and the truck lowered a half inch or so. "That looks better", he said. And, he was right - she tows great.

And thanks, also, Casey, for the many email updates on your adventure. You ought to put them all together in one document and load it onto the site for all to enjoy.

[C-Bill]

Tyboo,

Do you have brakes on all wheels? I'm just guessing that may account for the heat. Sometimes, the warmer bearings may need some adjustment if there is adequate grease in the hub

Bill

[TyBoo]

[C-Bill]

TyBoo

Since I opened my mouth, I might as well take this a little further. I can't comment on the fullness of your hub as I'm not familiar with the Tie Down cap. I did contact a Chevron tech on the internet with regards to what type grease to use, in anticipating a heat problem from my disc brakes (4). He recommended Chevron's "Black Pearl" for my boat trailer application. I've been very pleased with it. No slinging of grease out thru the seal and the hubs stay very cool . Thats the PRO side. The CON is that it is a synthetic and bad things happen if you mix it with petroleum based lube, not to mention what happens when you get it on your fingers (they stay black for a while). Naturally, the change over requires that ALL old grease be carefully cleaned out from inside your hub. If you don't, for sure you'll have some black cottage cheese looking stuff .

Goodnight all C-Brats!

Bill

[Minnow]

Just another tip on tongue weight. If you change the height of your hitch on a tandem axle trailer, you should also check your tongue weight as it will change drastically with a couple inch change. As the hitch is raised, the weight transfers to the rear wheels and vice-versa. I have played with the tongue jack on a platform scale, and seen several hundred pounds difference in just a few inches. Again, this is only for tandems, single axel setups don't change much.

[Da Nag]

[Minnow]

Yeah, you are right about this. The bottom line is that the trailer frame should be level, with the boat positioned on the bunks for maximum support of the transom, and then adjust the axles fore or aft to give a tongue weight of 5 to 7% (as per Load-Rite), or as much as 10% if the vehicle hitch can handle it.

[Ceez]

Quite an old post but those are some great tips you've given. By the way, I'm currently looking for good tow products to purchase. I still haven't decided if I should get the Blue Ox alpha tow bar.

[Foggy]

When considering a towable rig, the boat/trailer is only one component to
evaluate.

Give equal consideration to the truck, especially the availability of self leveling
hydraulic suspension. I had it towing my CD 26 Venture (>8K lbs) on a Ram
1500 V8.

It leveled the rig without 'a hitch'.

Aye.
Grandpa used to say, "You'll be happier with your decisions if you look at more
factors weather than less."

[JamesTXSD]

Hey, Foggy, you are responding to a spam poster.

[hardee]

[Byrdman]

Good stuff here....other than the spammer dude. I also travel with a thermal thermometer to "shoot" the hubs n tires as I pull off for restroom and/or fuel breaks. Temp changes are indicators for looking closer if things are out of whack. And, have trailer wheels/tires spun balanced and when mounted, properly torqued for better ride and better tire wear. and go ahead...you can lube the receiver and all those moving parts.....before they rust over and don't function properly.