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Wandering Sagebrush



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 3:26 pm    Post subject: Fuel Filter bowls Reply with quote

Does anyone know an inexpensive source for the plastic bowels that attach to the Racor fuel filters? My worry box started filling up with concerns about breaking one, and now I am feeling the need to get a spare (I have plenty of the elements).

The element is only about $22 with a Honda name on it, but the element and bowel are over $60. That's a pretty expensive piece of plastic. I should probably head down to a NAPA and see what they can come up with, but thought one of the Brats would have a great idea.

Regards,

Steve
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flapbreaker



Joined: 26 Jan 2005
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City/Region: Hillsboro
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have not ordered from this site but the price seems right. I do use the racor R12T instead of the honda parts.

http://www.aaaa-generator.com/RACOR_R12T.html

Here's a old thread regarding this filter.
http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t=2168&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0

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Spencer
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Dreamer



Joined: 01 Jan 2006
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 10:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Steve,

If you want to cover all your bases with spares, and it's a great idea, the complete filter looks like a bargain at $39. See the site Spencer posted. Then you've got a spare for every component! Just my $0.02 worth.

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Once a C-Brat, always a C-Brat

Dreamer- Sold 25 Feb. 2013
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Wandering Sagebrush



Joined: 21 Jan 2005
Posts: 2770
City/Region: Northeast Oregon
State or Province: OR
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Constant Craving
Photos: Constant Craving
PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 10:07 pm    Post subject: Fuel Filter - Spare Bowl Reply with quote

Spencer, Roger:

Thanks! I am going to pick one up. I've got several spare filter elements, but no bowl.

Regards,

Steve
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toyman



Joined: 11 Jan 2009
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City/Region: Lake Livingston
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C-Dory Year: 2006
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 8:42 pm    Post subject: Honda Fuel Water Separator Reply with quote

I've been relocating my Honda (Racor) fuel filter to the motor well - some DA had installed it directly above the stbd battery under deck. I figured I'd go ahead and change the filter while I was at it - easy looking right ? After a couple of hours wrestling the thing around my shop trying to get the filter separated from the PLASTIC (under the deck ??) bowl I went to the destruction method and found the the plastic bowl COULD NOT be separated from the plastic threads on the filter. I suspect that the culprit may be the ethanol in the fuel. I'm going to replace my plastic bowl with the metal bowl - but if that was what caused the problem - what about the plastic in the filter can ?

I note from looking at some older threads that others have experienced problems removing their bowls - anyone else the COULD NOT remove it ?

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Wefings
Dealer


Joined: 29 Nov 2005
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 9:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The metal bowls are required for inboards only [for fire reasons], With opaque metal, you lose the ability to see the water collect if there is any . The plastic is the way to go and visible is good .Get a strap wrench and take the bowl off or loosen once in a while . They do seem to "self tighten".
You cant blame ethanol for everything! Remember,as a food group ,it can be your friend too .It can make people around you more interesting and your children more well behaved.
Marc

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toyman



Joined: 11 Jan 2009
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll drink to that Marc - just don't make me use it as a fuel. This filter/separator weren't tight, strap wrenches and a vise wouldn't budge it. When I did the destruction inspection the black plastic (ABS probably) was bonded to the clear bowl ( Styrene or K-resin probably). Not just stuck. The other alternative was that the fool the previous owner had change the filters used MEK ( whick would melt ABS & styrene, can't remember about K-Resin) to make it seal - with the gasket Recor used for sealing it SHOULD not have been a problem.
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marvin4239



Joined: 06 Feb 2007
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 9:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My boat came factory rigged with the all metal filter mounted in the splash well and it's hard to get apart also. It doesn't have a drain either. I want to replace mine with the plastic bowl for the reasons Marc points out.
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Comfortably Numb



Joined: 30 Aug 2007
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 9:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had some good luck with Marine Filters:

http://www.marinefilters.com/

More specific to "our" needs:

http://www.marinefilters.com/viewproducts.php?number=5

Happy Holidays!

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Comfortably Numb
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“For this is how the suicide of nations begins, when sentimentality prevails over sense.”
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Wefings
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 9:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Id still go plastic and a little silicone grease for O ring area on the new one and you should be fine. Cant explain the major melding of parts but maybe no one ever messed with it till now.
Marc
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toyman



Joined: 11 Jan 2009
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 10:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is something found looking for a bowl.
http://shop.torresen.com/ships_store/?p=details&ident=139477
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Levity



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 8:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The plastic bowl used to stick onto the threads of the fuel filter element on Levity also. My guess was that the oil used as a lubricant on the plastic threads was somehow bonding the plastic threads of the bowl to the plastic threads of the element. Isn't plastic a petroleum product? Due to poor knowledge of chemistry my petroleum bonding theory may be nonsense, however, since using graphite as a lubricant the bowl and element are easily separated.
Regards,
Mike "Levity"
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BrentB



Joined: 15 Jul 2006
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 10:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does it have a bowl O-ring? Racor changed to a flurocarbon O ring for the bowl recently b/c of changes in additivies and ethanol. The new one is green and previous one is black

on edit
Part numbers using the new O ring
S3213
S3214
S3227
S3228 series
S3232
B32013
B32014
320R-RAC-01
490R-RAC-01
660R-RAC-01

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BrentB



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PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 10:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PARKER/menuitem.734d2913eb3c11da13576f849420d1ca/?vgnextoid=d195f87357e28110VgnVCM10000048021dacRCRD&vgnextfmt=default&vgnextcatid=2700011&literaturetype=Bulletins&searchAttr=searchResult&languages=EN&parentCh=FindCatlogId#results

may need to copy and paste the url
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matt_unique



Joined: 27 Feb 2007
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 15, 2009 2:43 pm    Post subject: Filter Reply with quote

They are a bear to get off. I could not do it after my first season but figured out a method that works every time.

I remove the filter and bowl from the metal housing (on my transom) using a regular filter wrench. I then place the metal bowl in a vice to hold it snug and use giant pipe wrench pliers to remove the actual filter element. (The handles on my pliers are about a foot long offering some crazy leverage). The pliers easily grab the entire filter element and you can twist it right off. The pliers look like this: http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1291870&kw=pliers&origkw=pliers&searchId=45667203404


I use a good dose of motor oil around the gasket when I put the new filters on (just as you do with a regular car oil filter).

--Matt

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