R25 Air Conditioning

[henrym]

The easiest way to fix the problem is to purchase a roll of Gorilla Duct Tape. Gorilla Duct Tape is black in color, twice as heavy as regular duct tape, tenaciously sticks to just about any surface, and it does not deteriorate when it gets wet. Use the tape to connect and seal the AC outlet to the poorly aligned cold air outlet box. Then seal the air gap that will stop any cold air from being looped back to the inlet side of the AC unit. By doing this, you will just about double the cold airflow and the thermostat will then become more sensitive ambient temperature in the cabin.

After completing the job, throw away your old silver faced duct tape as Gorilla Duct Tape will become one of your best friends. When the hurricanes come, I use it to seal the bottom of the outside doors and two weeks later it removes with the sticky stuff staying on the tape.
Henry

[SnugTug]

Thanks for the tip. While at the boat this weekend I sealed the connection between the air conditioner fan output and the diffuser grill with gorilla tape as you suggested. A better solution would be to have a diffuser grill that fits the fan output better. The shape of the fan output just doesn't fit into the duffuser grill they selected. It would not be easy to fix now, but should have been easy to do when first installed.

I also thought I had a 16,000 BTU AC unit but discovered that it's only 10k or 12k based upon the dimensions. I can't see a rating label. Does anyone know what size AC units are installed on the R 25? Maybe mine's an early model with a smaller unit?

[henrym]

I was told by Ranger that my Tug (#85) had 16,000 BTU AC. I'm thinking of enlarging the AC access hole under the seat for future potential servicing etc.

I keep my boat on a lift. I lowered it to the point that the AC raw water sea cock is just under the water by a few inches, then take a water hose and inject water into the rear AC condenser discharge outlet until there are no more air bubbles coming out of the sea cock. Close the sea cock and only open it when the boat is in the water and you want to use the AC. (The injected fresh water will pass right through the magnetically coupled centrifugal AC raw water pump with ease.)
Henry

[JTREV]

I don't know what the deal is with my air conditioner, but I have not had any sort of problem with it getting an "air lock" and not pumping water.
My boat lives on the trailer when we are not using it and I have not had to close the sea cock to keep it primed - works without a hitch so far, maybe they have done something different on the new hulls, mine is #89.

However I did have some trouble with my generater this last weekend. When I started it I looked to see if water was exiting the exhaust and there seemed to be a little less water than I remembered, but still a "spray" of water was exiting the exhaust, within about 2 minutes the temperature sensor shut it down. I checked the generater strainer and it was clean also had excellent water flow thru sea cock, tonight I will look at the impeller and see if something is messed up with it, does anybody else have any other suggestions?

I started the generater the next day just to see if it was ok and it ran fine, so I turned it off after about 20 seconds - still not very much water thru exhaust & generater didn't seem hot...

John