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Repairing small drill holes in hull
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breausaw



Joined: 18 Jan 2006
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 2:26 pm    Post subject: Repairing small drill holes in hull Reply with quote

G/flex Epoxies, has any used this stuff?
I have a couple of small holes drilled in the bottom of my transom, mistake holes Crook installing a transducer. Yea I know, measure twice drill once.
I used 5200 initially to seal the holes but think a more permanent fix is in order
One kit comes with syringes so you can inject and fill the entire whole, then I’d just tape it off tell cured.
Also, I need to move my GPS and VHF antennas outboard and was also considering using the G/flex for repairing those holes.

http://www.gougeonbrothers.com/G-flex/

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breausaw



Joined: 18 Jan 2006
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 3:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok, I know this topic has been hashed out before, but this G/flex is relatively new. I’ve read though most threads on hole repair and haven’t come across any information here on this new epoxy.
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matt_unique



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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 4:12 pm    Post subject: Gman Reply with quote

I have not used it personally so I would go with the tried and true stuff. I would use System III or West System epoxy (hardener and resin of course) and squirt it into the hole with a syringe until a little comes out, then quickly insert a small piece of a wood or plastic dowel sharpened to a point with a pencil sharpener. This will cap the hole keeping the epoxy inside and ensure there are no air voids. Make sure the very outside of the hole and the dowel is totally covered with epoxy and flush with the outside for future painting, etc.
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breausaw



Joined: 18 Jan 2006
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 7:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since the holes I miss drilled are just below the transducer mount I was considering running a couple of stainless screws in the holes using 5200 or 4200, any problem with this? I’m not that concerned with esthetics here, you couldn’t even see the screws.
Just know I’m going to get bashed for suggesting this!
Embarassed
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ryder



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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 8:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it was me i would fill the holes with marine tex. great stuff.

regards

ryder

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matt_unique



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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 11:06 pm    Post subject: Holes Reply with quote

breausaw wrote:
Since the holes I miss drilled are just below the transducer mount I was considering running a couple of stainless screws in the holes using 5200 or 4200, any problem with this? I’m not that concerned with esthetics here, you couldn’t even see the screws.
Just know I’m going to get bashed for suggesting this!
Embarassed


Ha ha, no bashing but it sounds like you already know the screws with 42/5200 is not as good a solution as using epoxy and capping. I would do everything possible to minimize the risk of water entry ruining your transom.
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thataway



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PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2008 11:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is the reason I suggest that transducers be mounted on a piece of Starboard--not too late to do that. Just drill the holes out, fill with epoxy (MarineTex works fine) and then drill a new pilot hole and attatch the starboard (back cross hatched and undercut for adherance of 5200).

The screws just with 5200 are not a good idea. Fill the hole properly. Use toothpicks to work the MarineTex into the holes. Putting liquid epoxy in first is a good idea. You may already have a small area of wet core--and I would probably drill out the hole to good glass and wood core, before putting in the epoxy.

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Sea Wolf



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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 12:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

At first, the 5200 would seem to have the advantage of being "wetter" and probably a better seal if you've penetrated into the balsa or a plywood core, but may shrink a little upon curing and have to be filled in a second time for a flush surface. It's liquid nature makes it harder to work with as it wants to run out of the hole, and the set up time is much longer than an epoxy. However, .........

I like Marinetex epoxy for situations where I know I can get it worked into the wood core with a tool and then fully fill the hole. The epoxy with a fiberglass filler is much stronger than a bedding compound like 5200. It sets up faster, too! You can tint the appliance white color down to your hull to match.

Use a bonding filler (Marinetex) to solidly fill a hole or space.
Use a bedding compound (5200) to seal a crevice or make a gasket under a hardware piece.

I have no experience with G/Flex.

Joe. Teeth Thumbs Up

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tsturm



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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 1:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I drill out the hole slightly larger. Mix up my epoxy, load it into a syringe(sp?) W/O needle and inject the epoxy into the clean hole then Quickly cover with tape until it cures. sand flush & paint Wink
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breausaw



Joined: 18 Jan 2006
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 3:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tsturm wrote:
I drill out the hole slightly larger. Mix up my epoxy, load it into a syringe(sp?) W/O needle and inject the epoxy into the clean hole then Quickly cover with tape until it cures. sand flush & paint Wink

This is exactly how I intended to fill the hole, but I’d attach 14g needle to back-fill the hole pulling the needle out as if fills before taping it off.
Ok, the screw idea using 5200 is the lazy man’s cure.
So now I’m concerned with attaching the transducer with 5200 on the screws, is there a better alternative? My dealer said they use 5200 exclusively and recommended it for this particular application.

Bob’s idea using Starboard deserves consideration but unless this board comes in Blue the color contrast would be undesirable.
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tsturm



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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 5:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

breausaw wrote:
tsturm wrote:
I drill out the hole slightly larger. Mix up my epoxy, load it into a syringe(sp?) W/O needle and inject the epoxy into the clean hole then Quickly cover with tape until it cures. sand flush & paint Wink

This is exactly how I intended to fill the hole, but I’d attach 14g needle to back-fill the hole pulling the needle out as if fills before taping it off.
Ok, the screw idea using 5200 is the lazy man’s cure.
So now I’m concerned with attaching the transducer with 5200 on the screws, is there a better alternative? My dealer said they use 5200 exclusively and recommended it for this particular application.

Bob’s idea using Starboard deserves consideration but unless this board comes in Blue the color contrast would be undesirable.


Mine are put on with 5200. I do like the screw & glue a piece of 3/4" HDPE to the transom & mounting items to it. Maybe next year. I have been doing good on the kings @ Homer the last 2 weeks Wink
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thataway



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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 6:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting that the color of Starboard white would be objectionable. How about the transducer itself? Maybe I look at more the function of a boat than the asthetics of a blue gelcoat below the waterline. You found out the reason for the Starboard--that is that often DS transducers have to be repositioned, and you don't want to make swiss cheese out of the transom--with some risk of water intrusion into the transom core. I was recently on a friends "new" mainship 34--6 different depth sounder transducers in the hull!--Only one of them worked and matched the current sounder--and it is old, so that another one will be added--or better yet, one of the ones there removed and replaced....

But the starboard can be redrilled a number of times with no risk to the transom. When you put screws into the transom, you should not just screw in--you should over drill the hole, probably best to slightly undercut, fill with epoxy--and then pilot hole for the transducer screw, and bed in 5200. 5200 is not a cure all and does not always make a water tite seal.
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tsturm



Joined: 01 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

breausaw wrote:

Bob’s idea using Starboard deserves consideration but unless this board comes in Blue the color contrast would be undesirable.


That is what the Black bottom paint is for Mr. Green Beer
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breausaw



Joined: 18 Jan 2006
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 7:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thataway wrote:
Interesting that the color of Starboard white would be objectionable. How about the transducer itself? Maybe I look at more the function of a boat than the asthetics of a blue gelcoat below the waterline. You found out the reason for the Starboard--that is that often DS transducers have to be repositioned, and you don't want to make swiss cheese out of the transom--with some risk of water intrusion into the transom core.


Touché Bob, you’ve convince me. I have at least 3 weeks before Triple J hits the water and with my luck the dang transducer will have to be repositioned.
Now I have to find a source for ¾ inch High Density Polyethylene Marine Board here in Anchorage, maybe J.M.R. II can tell my where he got his.
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tsturm



Joined: 01 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 17, 2008 8:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

breausaw wrote:
thataway wrote:
Interesting that the color of Starboard white would be objectionable. How about the transducer itself? Maybe I look at more the function of a boat than the asthetics of a blue gelcoat below the waterline. You found out the reason for the Starboard--that is that often DS transducers have to be repositioned, and you don't want to make swiss cheese out of the transom--with some risk of water intrusion into the transom core.


Touché Bob, you’ve convince me. I have at least 3 weeks before Triple J hits the water and with my luck the dang transducer will have to be repositioned.
Now I have to find a source for ¾ inch High Density Polyethylene Marine Board here in Anchorage, maybe J.M.R. II can tell my where he got his.


First try would be B&J commercial Wink
I have seen HDPE in black also
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