Rubbing Compound for Gelcoat Scratches?

[Jazzmanic]

I've searched various threads and have an idea what I want to do but need some confirmation. After three boating seasons and numerous run-ins with docks and pilings etc, we've produced some unsightly scratches on the gelcoat, most notably on the green trim. These scratches are not gouges but have defintely scratched the gelcoat surface. The worst of which occurred after rubbing against a piling, which produced several scratches about a foot-long, like scraping a big sharp comb against the hull and leaving about eight uniform scratches across the surface.

My question: Would rubbing compound get these surface scratches out? Or would I have to use wet/dry sandpaper and sand the affected areas first? I'm hoping that I could just use rubbing compound, buff it out, then wax the entire hull to make it look like new. What's the verdict?

Peter
C-Dancer

[Sea Wolf]

Peter-

It would be impossible to predict which method would work best without seeing the scratches up close, as so much depends on their depth. They might just buff out, rub out, wet sand out, or have to be filled with gel coat if you can see the light hull color underneath.

Best thing (IMHO), is to start by trying the simplest and then work up to the more aggressive methods.

FIRST, try a light POLISHING COMPOUND and see if you can rub them out by hand.

If not, then use a more aggressive RUBBING COMPOUND with a heavier abrasive.

If that doesn't remove them, try WET SANDING them with 400, then 600, then 1200 wet/dry emery paper.

Still got scratches or starting to see the white hull color below? Then it's time to FILL IN THE SCRATCHES WITH GEL COAT.

Of course, as soon as you get rid of the scratches, the work backwards through the list of methods above and FINISH OFF WITH A WAX JOB.

HOPE THIS WORKS OUT FOR YOU!

JOE.

[Jazzmanic]

Joe, you da man. That's kinda what I had in mind and now it's confirmed by someone who knows something!

I'll give it a shot, just as you stated. Of course it's difficult to answer these kind of questions without a visual but honestly, I don't know how to answer whether the scratches are deep or not. In some ways, I wish I had an old hull sitting around so I could try to replicate the condition and use that to experiment.

Thanks as always,

Peter

[thataway]

The vast majority of scratches can be removed with 3M Finessit. I agree with the above, but I would be very cautions about using any sandpaper with a grit courser than 1200. As Joe says, wet sand paper--keep it wet all of the time, and dunk it in the bucket every few seconds. Gelcoat is not all that thick--and if you wear it off, it will have to be eighter re-gelcoated or painted. (neither is cheap).

Even with the hurricane damaged boat which had fallen 30 feet, I was able to get the majority of scratches out with Finessit.

[Jazzmanic]

Thanks Bob, I'll give Finessit a try. I'll be sure to post a follow-up as to my success following the steps above.

Peter

[Doryman]

Peter, how did Finessit work for you?

Bob and all, I was reading the C-22 Owner's Manual in the archives here, and I was struck by the numerous warnings not to apply rubbing compound in sunlight. Admittedly, that would be a nice problem to have here , but what is the underlying issue and how concerned should I be?

Thanks,
Warren

[NewMoon]

I use 3M Finesse-It on my green hull for minor scratches and areas rubbed by the fenders with great results. I do it in the shade, inside the "boat house" garage. From the way it works I'd guess (but don't know for sure) the reason not to apply it in sun is to keep it from drying out too quickly.

[Jazzmanic]

Warren,

I did use Finesse-It and it did get out the light scratches. However, I had to go to the regular rubbing compound by 3M to get out the deeper scratches. It did a good job. However, some of the scratches went pretty deep and those are still visible, just not as obvious as before.

I did it last summer, I can't remember if it was sunny or not. I have a feeling it was but I didn't see any negative effects.

Richard, even with the sun, it seems to stay pretty cool around here. Maybe that's the reason for no negative effects.

Peter

[Wefings]

The Three M system is what most pros use . The "fiberglass cleaner restorer" is the next step up from "finessit " Less finesse, more true grit .
Marc

[Doryman]

[flrockytop]

[Doryman]

Roger, I have been home for a little over a week. I go to Utah to pick up the 22 sometime at the end of May. Will make a road trip of it and go visit friends and family en route to Salt Lake.

Warren

[Wefings]

I believe its a drying issue , they want to make sure you get even results with the solvents still being liquid while applying the compound. Think of suntan lotion and supermodels.See if you can still concentrate .
Marc

[C-batical]

Marc is correct. The problem is drying out of the abrasive. When you are using any abrasive; compound or wet/dry sandpaper you need to use water. (Finesse-it is a mild abrasive compound). Water prevents the drying out of the compound as well as acting as a lubricant. This is especially true if you are using a buffing wheel or sandpaper to compound out the scratches. A handy way to apply and control the amount of water is to use a a spray bottle. Another suggestion that works very well is to add a few drops detergent to the water in a normal size spray bottle. This also helps to control the build up of residue on your wheel pad or sandpaper. I use this technique when I am either painting a car or cleaning up a gel coat problem. I hope this helps

Best regards,

[flrockytop]