2003 Jay & Jo-Lee's First C-Dory Cruise-Alaska and Yuk

[Hunkydory]

Decided to re post this "our first cruising adventure" here in the Grand Adventure Forum. It had previously been posted in El and Bills thread "Upper Yukon River" under "C-Brat Cruises and Gatherings". So if you think you read it before you probably did, but there are now many who have joined this site since then that may find it interesting. There is also if interested a video of this cruise here in the Grand Adventure Forum under the title "Video---hunkydory in the Yukon and Alaska".

When checking a map you'll notice that close to the upper Yukon is located several long narrow finger like lakes that are all sources of the Yukon river. These are fjord like lakes surrounded by teton type mountains with glaciers feeding in from the Juneau ice fields. Whole area is beautiful beyond words. The town of Atlin, Atlin Lake, and Atlin provincial Park are also beyond compare. Atlin provincial Park is like Yellowstone Park without rangers. Also Skagway and its access to the Inland Passage are all in the general area.

We left home, which is in southwest Wyoming on 7-17-03. Traveled up through Missoula, Kalispell, Banff and Jasper Parks, Prince George, Fort Nelson and arrived Whitehorse, Yukon 7-20. Wonderful drive, roads good, many many animals. Bears, moose, sheep, elk, goats ect, ect. Couldnt find good place to store truck and boat trailer on a Sunday so continued on to Tagish Lake. There is a place to launch in Whitehorse. Its in approximately the middle of town. Limited parking near by and need to find a storage place to store truck and trailer. I found one but they were not there on a Sunday @ its about 2 miles from the launch place. The better place to launch and leave trailer is Carmacks, which is down river 200 miles. From Carmacks you can go either up or down river. On a new river, Iam getting the feel for, I prefer to go up stream. I like to be able to easily back out of trouble.

Carmacks is approximately 125 miles north of Whitehorse on a good road. Its location is at the junction of the Klondike and Campbell Highways. The town is small. Not much more than gas stations grocery store and motel. There's a fairly large parking area by the, I believe shell station, that let us park our pick up and trailer for no charge. Course I bought quite abit fuel from them. A camp ground is located very near the town on the river by launch. The launch is primitive with a little current but doable. I would not feel good about leaving my pickup ect in the camp ground or at the launch.

As I stated on the Mackenzie thread, I was advised not to take the C Dory from Carmacks to Whitehorse by a person that knew the river and C Dorys. I just didn't think he knew C Dorys as well as Jo-Lee and I, or the rest of us that use and love our boats. On the other hand I wouldn't recommend doing this river without river knowledge. The river is wide and channeled in areas and it moves deceptively fast with many sand and gravel bars. It traverses a very wild area without radio or phone service. We have a satellite phone, which way reduces the stress factor. I would also highly recommend buying the book "Yukon Channel Charts" by Bruce Bachelor. Its a stern wheeler-style strip maps of the Yukon River with good stories @pictures. We wounld't wanted to be without it. At times Jo-Lee was giving directions while I was reading the river and maneuvering the boat. I bought this book through Amazon books.

Before continuing I would like to share our previous boating experience. This may give encouragement to others that would like to go adventuring but feel they lack the ability or experience to go. Before purchasing our C Dory-used, in Jan 2003 from Gordon Lamont in Vancouver, British Columbia, neither Jo-Lee or I had ever operated any boat other than a canoe and small rubber inflatable. In Wyoming, we had only 2 months of boating weather with 8 one to two day outings to learn the boat in preparation for our Alaska-Yukon trip. I doubt this could have been done with any other boat than a C Dory. We are still known hazards around docks and other tight places! Preplanning for trips is essential, but if all we do is talk and plan, the boat will never leave the dock or trailer and we will only read about others stories of adventure. The year after this trip we went form Prince Rupert to Juneau and back and then some.

On the Yukon River between Marsh and Tagish Lakes and on the highway between Jake's Corner and Carcross is the small town of Tagish. Directly across the the river from Tagish there is a marina where we paid $10 Canadian per day for safe truck @ trailer storage, also use of there boat launch. Very close to the marina there is a government campground and boat launch. Didn't feel good about leaving truck ect. there.

On a future trip to Tagish lake we would launch out of Carcross. There is a large parking lot there for viewing the remains of a stern wheeler that was rebuilt than burned. The town folk said that would be a good safe place to launch and leave truck. The launch would be very primitive but again doable. Carcross is located on the windy arm of Tagish lake at the junction of Tagish and Bennett Lakes. This is the route of the gold rush from the Chilcoat trail down the Yukon.

On 7-20-03 we left the marina heading up river to Tagish Lake. Made it 35 miles up lake to a nice cove where we built fire on beach and settled in for the night. Went to sleep listening to the distant roar of Racin Falls.

7-21. Up early and 51 miles more up lake to Ben My Cree. This is Gaelic for Lady of My Heart. This is located at the very inlet of the lake with huge ragged mountains on either side, leading from the lake into a beautiful valley with a glacier from the Juneau ice fields at the head. There is an old lodge and mine site built by one of the gold rush minors and in its day a destination for the early 1900's elite. The buildings are still in good condition. It is now owned by a very wealthy Californian. There is a welcome sign, saying "enjoy your stay and leave things as you found them." There is a wonderful book about this place called Klondike Paradise by C. R. Porter. Don't know if it can be bought at Amazon. We bought it at Jade City on the Cassiar Highway on the way home. Wished we had read it before going. We explored the buildings and area, read some very old newspapers, waded a glacier river, got lost @ found in alder's all while noticing extreme big bear sign in the area. There was a guest book in one of the building that we signed. Had only been 4 people in there that yeartodate. Most of the time I do carry a shotgun when were in these kind of places. Spent the night at another beautiful cove at the head of the inlet into Ben My Cree.

7-22 Explored rest of lake. Saw moose and caribou swimming across lake. Mama bear and cubs on lake edge. Saw a C-Dory at a Lodge on Gramme inlet. It was out of the water and in bad shape. Later found out it was owned by the person that had Ben My Cree. He had left it in the water over the winter and the ice had torn out the transom. This is how the owner of the marina knew about C Dorey. He was hoping to buy and rebuild it. In years past the owner of Ben My Cree had accessed it with the C Dory. The present owner is said to use a plane. Boat out of the water and drove to Skagway that evening. Launched the boat and spent the night at the dock after using the marinas wonderful hot shower.

7-23 Down Lynn Canal half way to Juneau. The Lynn Canal had been very storm the previous 3 days. We had a gorgeous smooth water crystal clear day after lingering morning fog. Many whales and they are not at all shy. I think this is due to the boat traffic in the Skagway to Haines and Juneau areas. In 2001 we were going from Skagway to Haines in our little inflatable and had a whale come up where we were looking into its blow hole so close its tail was under us. This was not of our choosing, but oh what a thrill!! Had a pod of dull porpoise's ride our bow wave and circling the boat and this was in crystal clear smooth water with bright sunshine. 1st time for us and one we'll never forget. Drawback for the day. Couldn't get our GPS and nobletech computer chart to connect so very careful.

7-24 Skagway to Haines and back watching whales. Pulled boat out of water to leave Skagway and then on walk through town found store that sold what was needed to make computer and nobletech system work. So back in water and prepared for trip down Lynn Canal.

7-25 Left Skagway 3:30 am, down Lynn Canel and tried to go up Taku Inlet. Had studied about the Taku river and had wanted to explore it. At the inlet in front of Taku glacier we couldn't find the river channel. Very muddy water-depth bouncing between 2 and 6 feet, tide dropping so had to abandon our quest. Very disappointed. In 2004 coming up from Prince Rupert we tried again. That time after several groundings and having to get out of boat to get off mud bars and jet boats cruising buy we abandoned this quest for good. Would have liked to explore the area, but don't like to be in the same area with the jet boats, due to the noise.
Headed off to Juneau for fuel. Didn't like harbor at Juneau, so left for Auke Bay Harbor. On way saw and filmed whales working together to feed on herring. "Just like on National Geographic." We didn't even know the whales where in the area. We had come around a point cruising at about 14 mph and they exploded out of the water less than 100 yards ahead of us. What a show!! We stopped immediately left the engine running and they did this several more times. We were very nervous when the seagulls were hovering right over us. They seem to follow the whales movements. Liked Auke Bay Harbor. Showered and then watched the eagles catching fish in the water around the docks.

7-26 Back up Lynn Canal to Skagway. Explored St. James Bay and Boat Harbor Bay on the way. Boat Harbor Bay has an extremely narrow entrance with a beautiful round harbor inside. Bad wheat her caught up with us 15 miles south of Haines. At least we had following seas. High winds, rain and bigger waves than we cared for. The C Dory handled it better than us, so no real fear. Stopped in Haines to hopefully let wind lesson. Ate lunch at restaurant above harbor. Then to Skagway-boat out of water and drove to Atlin. Payed $20 for a weeks dock space. Night at the Atlin dock.

7-27 Early morning up to Williston Inlet. Extreme winds and waves crossing lake. Later we talked to some people in town that saw us leave. They wondered who the fools were and didn't think our boat would take that kind of conditions. It was worse than the Lynn Canal, but other than being knocked about again the boat handled it well. Saw 2 bears along shore and watched Mt. goats on the cliffs above lake. At the cove where we spent the night geologist had left racks of sample coring's. They had been there for a long time. We brought a sample home with us.

7-28 A little fishing more sight seeing and animal watching. Looked over site we had to completely disassemble our inflatable to repair leak on a trip in 2001.

7-29 Cruised and a little more fishing. Up to now we had taken the advice of the Tagish marina owner to not try the Yukon between Whitehorse and Carmacks. It doesn't take very long no matter how pretty the country or plentiful the animals before Jo-Lee and I get itchy feet and feel like moving on. Sooo with us only having another week, actually 8 days before we had to be home. We decided to try the Yukon. Felt if was to bad, we would only go up a few miles before returning. Loaded boat just before dark, and spent night on turn out on the Atlin road.

7-30 Morning drive to Carmacks. Filled up extra 5 gal fuel containers with 30 gal of fuel. That gave us 70 gal to make Whitehorse 200 miles up river. There isn't any boat pull outs or fuel access between Carmacks and Whitehorse. Bought a shovel on the advise of a couple we met who spends alot of time boating on shallow water. They said if you ground bad enough and you're by yourself you won't get off without a shovel. Fortunately We never found out if they were right or not. Launching preparation for leaving went smooth. This was amazing, due to there being a large group of 1st Nation people watching our every move. We had only made about 3 miles up river when we messed up looking into the sun any way that's the excuse and took the wrong channel. Fortunately we have river running prop protectors so other than a little noise and our confidence shaken there was no damage. At this point we did come very close to turning around. Glad we didn't. It was fairly late when we started and we continued up river later than we should have. For the 1st 30 miles or so there were plenty of places to set up for the night. By the time we really wanted to stop the river had narrowed, speeded up and no good places to tie off. We were getting very nervous and it was almost dark dark when we found a place in front of a old trappers cabin 50 miles up river.

7-31 The fast water areas of the river are narrow, deep and single channeled and easy to navigate. Its the many channeled fairly slow [that can be deceptive] moving areas that can be difficult. The book with charts I suggested earlier really helps, though it can't be completely trusted due to the bars and channels changing from year to year. There are many canoes and kayaks and a few native boats. Also an occasional small boat. I didn't see another boat the size of 22 C Dory. Most every one starts late and quits early. From Lake La barge to Whitehorse there are several nice well located and maintained camp grounds for boaters. The river section from Carcross to Dawson is easier than from Carmacks to Whitehorse. I haven't been in the Dawson to Carmacks section, but this is what I was told. I think Dan's suggestion from Whitehorse to Dawson would be a good choice. He's also right in that it would be better navigated by canoe. I just liked the challenge and convenience of the C Dory. The entrance of the Yukon to lake labarge is very shallow. I couldn't find much more than 2' of water. Its possible I wasn't in the channel though we really looked.

At approximately 100 miles we tied up to the wrecked hull of the stern wheeler Klondike 1. Its moter boiler ect was installed into the Klondike 2 which has been completely restored and can be toured along the river by Whitehorse. At the junction of the Teslin and Yukon rivers there is a old boat yard where a large paddle wheeler was pulled out of the river in the 1920's and has been sitting there ever since.

7-31-03 continued. Arrived Whitehorse about 9pm. Tied off to trees on river bank in closest spot we could get to fuel station. Many walking trips to fuel boat. Used 55 gal for the 200 mile up river trip. It was dark by the time boat was fueled. River running fairly swift right to bank where we tied off, so spent the night right there.

8-1-03 Beautiful early morning run down river. Light fog with sun trying to brake through. Left Whitehorse 6:30am arrived Carmacks 4:15pm. Easy run downriver using gps track from trip up. Only one oops. Cut a little close to a incoming stream which was had carried gravel out into river. Only a few feet off gps track, but heard and felt prop protectors making contact. Only very slight damage to props. We carry 2 spare sets. Used 33 gal going down stream. Loaded boat. Drove to and spent night at Yukon gov. campground on Teslin Lake.

8-2-03 Spent day exploring teslin lake. Went up the river at the inlet a few miles. Teslin lake has much better fishing than the other area lakes, but the surrounding shore of lake is not as scenic. On one of the small coves we spotted and old unique cabin with all hand made furniture. There was a huge set of moose antlers hanging on the front of cabin. Was very tempted to barrow them for a few years, but we resisted the temptation. Hopefully they are still hanging there now waiting for the next person to stop by and enjoy.

8-3---8-7 Left teslin lake down the Cassiar Highway through Prince George again. Into Washington State. Stopped at the C Dory Factory to have center window installed. They got us right in and out with a job well done. Night at Jo-Lee's sister in Amboy, Washington. Arrived home in Cokeville, Wyoming 2 days later.