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Help with shore power plug
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mikeporterinmd



Joined: 15 Sep 2006
Posts: 645

State or Province: MD
C-Dory Year: 2002
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Shelly IV
Photos: Shelly-IV
PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 12:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You have to be careful with 30 amp inlet and shore cords. You need
full 10 gauge from the dock (shore cords are 10 gauge) through the
boat until you get to a properly installed dual pole 30 amp breaker
in the boat. Anything less is dangerous if you are plugged into a 30 amp
outlet.

The photos above showing 15 amp to 30 amp inlet do not show
a dangerous condition so long as the other end of the cord is
plugged into a 15 amp outlet with proper breakers for the
outlet.

We have people in our marina that use 15 amp cords going into
30 amp outlets. This will be the last year for that little trick. You
can cause a marina fire doing stuff like this. I read a good story about
such an investigation in an otherwise usually worthless magazine
a few months ago. In the story, the boater was not using twist locks
with screw down rings on the boat, and the connector was getting
hot from a bad connection. Eventually, it caught fire. Even though
the boat was totally destroyed, they were able to piece together what
happened and prove negligence on the part of the boater.

I'm fairly certain a similar situation caused a fatal boat fire I witnessed
a few years ago.

Mike
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flapbreaker



Joined: 26 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 9:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike is correct that you have to be carefull with the above system. You can't treat it like you have a true shore power system. I definately wouldn't leave the boat unattended nor pull more than 15amps through the system. It is my understanding that the 15amp breaker will trip before overheating the cgfi cable that is wired into the 30amp outlet. I don't plan on testing this theory as I would only use the shore power cable to charge the batteries and maybe run a light or two. Maybe I'm mistaken but I'm under the impression that you would have to actually have a load greater than 15amps to cause a problem in the wiring. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.
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marvin4239



Joined: 06 Feb 2007
Posts: 1165
City/Region: Jacksonville Florida/Wilmington NC
State or Province: FL
C-Dory Year: 2007
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: C-FLE II
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 9:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

flapbreaker wrote:
I'm under the impression that you would have to actually have a load greater than 15amps to cause a problem in the wiring. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.


You are correct but remember when you are using and adapter from 30 amp to 15 amp you will be more than likely be pluging in and extension cord with number 14 or smaller wire. Number 14 wire is good for 15 amps and you are fused at 30 amps. I've seen a lot of the adapters made for RV's to plug into a 15 amp receptacle and go to a 30 amp plug literally melt. The small prongs on the male 15 amp adapter over heat and melt many times before they kick a breaker.

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Sneaks



Joined: 06 Jun 2004
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C-Dory Year: 1993
C-Dory Model: 16 Angler
Vessel Name: C-Brat
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 9:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

While surfing online, I found a 25 ft. marine shore power cable with a 30 amp connector on one end and a 15 amp connector on the other end that plugs directly into my Marinco charge connector. No adapters. Since the only "unattended" load is the battery charger and it's downstream from the GFCI and 15 amp breaker I'm comfortable using it at our marina.

No, as others have pointed out, it's not according to regulations. OTOH, how many of us have at least 4-5 computer devices and wall warts plugged into the same 15 amp receptical in our house via power strips etc.? AFAIC, that's far more dangerous than my setup on the Jenny B. It's a matter of risk and risk management. We all need to be aware of the dangers - whether we deliberately take a risk, however slight, is a personal decision as it should be.

With my present "constrained" boating "style" it's rare that I even connect to the marina's shore power but the convenience of plugging in both at home in the driveway, off a generator, or into my RV far outweighs the difficulty (and expense) of installing or upgrading to an "approved" shore power system in a 22 ft. boat.

Don

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thataway



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The point about the plugs and inlets is excellent. The most common cause of boat fires is the entrance plug. Unfortunately many boaters do not turn off the circuits, they just unplug the cord. This allows arcing--carbon forms, there is more resistance, with more resistance more heat, the plug melts and a fire starts. The plugs (both cord and aboard boat) need to be inspected at least every 6 months. We replaced these on our larger boats about once every two years--this is with full time use, but we turned off breakers when we pluged or unplugged cords.

I dont' run even 15 amps with anything less than a #12 wire cord even with just 15 amps to the boat. Unfortunately there are lots of 50 and even 100 foot cords which are #14 wire--and this can be a problem.

For the cord we use from the genset, we have a true 20 amp plug (this is with the one plug at right angles to the other)--and use #12 wire, a length of only about 10 feet from the genset on the swim step to the 30 amp plug on the side of the boat. There is on reason for a longer cord with the gen set.

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Thataway
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snal



Joined: 13 Aug 2006
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 6:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I ordered the "charger" plug today...actually ordered 2 of them. Amazon had them for like $17 each direct from Amazon. I might just put one on each side and get another GFI box.
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mikeporterinmd



Joined: 15 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 11:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

flapbreaker wrote:
Mike is correct that you have to be carefull with the above system. You can't treat it like you have a true shore power system. I definately wouldn't leave the boat unattended nor pull more than 15amps through the system. It is my understanding that the 15amp breaker will trip before overheating the cgfi cable that is wired into the 30amp outlet. I don't plan on testing this theory as I would only use the shore power cable to charge the batteries and maybe run a light or two. Maybe I'm mistaken but I'm under the impression that you would have to actually have a load greater than 15amps to cause a problem in the wiring. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.


If the cord is plugged into a 30 amp outlet and something damages the
cord and causes a short, how are you going to prevent more than 15
amps from flowing?

In any case, for most of us on CD-22s, the issue isn't (un)intentional
overloading. It is short circuits and getting the breaker to trip instead of
turning the wire into a fire starting heating element.

Danger, Will Robinson, danger (I probably sound like a robot on
this topic Smile )

If I was dead set on plugging a 14 gauge wire into a 30 amp outlet, I'd
probably come up with a way to mount a 15 amp breaker in a box.
Use 10 gauge and a 30 amp connector to the outlet and 15 amp rated
materials to the boat. That would be safe if well built. (I think -
I'm not an electrician).

Mike
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flapbreaker



Joined: 26 Jan 2005
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Vessel Name: Playin' Hooky
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 11:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mikeporterinmd wrote:

If the cord is plugged into a 30 amp outlet and something damages the
cord and causes a short, how are you going to prevent more than 15
amps from flowing?
Mike



In my setup the CGFI has a 15 amp breaker in it so that should trip. The weak link in my system is the chord from the CGFI being wired into the 30amp outlet. However, short of a short (pun intended) it is my understanding that just because you plug into 30amp service doesn't mean you automatically are pulling 30amps. Don't you have to actually have a load, on the boat that pulls the amps in? If I'm just running the wallas and a few lights then I don't see how I could pull 30 amps. Never the less, I'm not sure I'll ever plug into shore power. It does work great for pluging the boat in at home.
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marvin4239



Joined: 06 Feb 2007
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City/Region: Jacksonville Florida/Wilmington NC
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 11:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You are correct the load on your extension cord carries will only be the sum of the items you have turned on in your boat. As long as your adapters are in good shape you should be okay. I wouldn't use the adapters for a permenant installation. On another note circuit breakers are mechanical devices that are prone to failure especially in a marine environment. I've seen extension cords melt all the way back to the receptacle without tripping a breaker. With a properly installed system the likelyhood of a short circuit is pretty remote. Make sure you use a good quality extension cord preferably #12 with good molded attachment caps (plugs) and no longer than needed.
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mikeporterinmd



Joined: 15 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 3:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

flapbreaker wrote:
[
In my setup the CGFI has a 15 amp breaker in it so that should trip. The weak link in my system is the chord from the CGFI being wired into the 30amp outlet.


Right. If the cord is damaged - say gets caught between the rubrail and
a piling, you will have a dangerous situation. The closer you move the
CFGI to the 30 amp outlet, the safer you are.

Mike
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marvin4239



Joined: 06 Feb 2007
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 4:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One thing to think about is what you are attempting to do is being done in every home in america. Your table lamp probably has a 18 gauge cord good for 5 amps and it's plugged into a plug with either a 15 or most likely 20 amp breaker. Your vaccum cleaner may have a 16 gauge cord good for 10 amps plugged into a 20 amp breaker. Of course in a marine environment you want things right. I really think what you are describing is safe provided common sense and proper precautions are taken. As has been said before 99% of problems occur at the plugs and adapters. Make sure your plugs are in good condition and plugged in securely and take precautions to insure your cord doesn't get pinched as was mentioned.
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Sea Wolf



Joined: 01 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 5:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Two thoughts:

1. The West Marine West Advisor has a lot of information on Trouble Shooting Shore Power Connections that is a valuable resource that is found not only on the web connection linked, but also on page 433 of their current catalogue.

2. Have any of you with GFCI units found any reason to by-pass the units?

I set mine up so it could be by-passed in the series of incoming connections when plugging into my Honda 1000i generator. The standard advice is that the GFCI gets confused because the generator does not have a true ground, or has a "floating ground", if you prefer that terminology.

Joe. Teeth Thumbs Up

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Capn Jack



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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 8:56 pm    Post subject: Shore Power Plugs Reply with quote

My greatest safety concern with shore power plugs is their location. I lost two of them to overheating due to corrosion when they were mounted below the gunnel. In this location they were constantly sprayed with salt water and difficult to keep dry inside. After the second failure I moved the outlet to the back of the cabin and haven't had another problem. Wink
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mikeporterinmd



Joined: 15 Sep 2006
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 9:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

marvin4239 wrote:
One thing to think about is what you are attempting to do is being done in every home in america. Your table lamp probably has a 18 gauge cord good for 5 amps and it's plugged into a plug with either a 15 or most likely 20 amp breaker. Your vaccum cleaner may have a 16 gauge cord good for 10 amps plugged into a 20 amp breaker. Of course in a marine environment you want things right. I really think what you are describing is safe provided common sense and proper precautions are taken. As has been said before 99% of problems occur at the plugs and adapters. Make sure your plugs are in good condition and plugged in securely and take precautions to insure your cord doesn't get pinched as was mentioned.


I'd be surprised to find an 18 gauge power cord with a 15 amp plug on the end
that was commercially made and carrying an UL sticker. The low voltage cable
from my laptop power supply probably is. But, the cord from the power
supply to the wall appears to be 16. I would image the low voltage
output is overload protected somehow.

Any lamp I ever worked on was 16.

The rule is simple. Any wire you use must be able to carry the current
that the upstream breaker trips at without becoming a hazard. Any
time you violate this rule, you create a hazard and could start a fire
if a short develops. Exactly what gauge of wire is needed depends
on the insulation type, the bundling and where the wire runs. There are
very different ratings for a wire in a chassis vs. an extension cord.
Plugging in anything other than a properly made 10 gauge 30 amp
cord into a shore power receptacle is dangerous. In my opinion, if you
start a fire, you should be held liable.

We've had marinas burn because of stuff like this, and I personally
saw two people die, perhaps, although I don't know for certain, from
an improper shore power setup (the fire was electrical, but I don't know
if it was due to improper maintenance or owner design flaws, or
even DC related. I never saw the fire chief's report.)

Mike
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captd



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PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2007 8:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The job is probably all wrapped up by now. But Thataway is right. I had the Hunky Dory for seven years the 30 amp system was installed at the factory. The cord was so bulky and all adapters were so expensive. I, like Flapbreaker, always used the short reducer cord, and carried a small Number 12 extension cord. Even when using an electric heater. 30 amps were totally unnessesary with the 22 ft'er.

Mike does your laptop have a built in transformer on it's cord? What you are saying is dangerous is what happens in your house at every receptical. The smallest breaker in you house is probably 15 amp. 20 amp for appliances in the kitchen.
captd

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