rubrail coming loose

[Big Mac]

I have a 2001 C-Dory 22' crusier. It appears to me that the rub rail was put on with some type of thru hull bolts. Their are bumps that protrude on the inside of the hull (they stick out about 3/4") that appear to be where the rub rail is bolted. It has a putty type compount that is painted with the interior gel coat. Anyone know if this is how they were attached in the past?

[Swee Pea]

Today I noticed that my rub rail is beginning to pull away from the boat in one place, about 1/8". I can look behind the metal portion of the rub rail and see the grey rivit. Searching the site, I found that the fix involves drilling out the rivit and either installing a new rivit or a machine screw, washer, and nut. Does anyone have a photo of the finished product as it appears from the inside of the boat? Like the rest, the original install has each rivit coated on the inside and then covered with the sprayed gel coat or interior paint. Just wanted to see how some of you who repaired the rub rail finished off the inside. My rub rail is not yet a big problem, but I am just planning for the future.

John
Swee Pea

[Dora~Jean]

This subject has been addressed before, but I didn't pay much attention to it since mine was fine.

Now I've noticed mine has pulled out farther this last season, about 3/8", now I consider it a possible water intrusion problem (between the fiberglass layer). I think it is due to the different expansion/contraction properties of the aluminum rail vs the fiberglass hull. I plan to drill out all of the rivets from about the windshield area forward (where it curves). I will then see how much access I have to either refill the holes with epoxy or seal with something like 5200. I'd prefer epoxy because I have a feeling the new holes I drill thru the existing rubrail holes into the hull won't line up after the rub rail is flattened against the hull. I'll use 1/4" SS machine screws with washers and nylock nuts, then paint to match on the inside.

At least that's my plan...

[Sea Wolf]

Here are some thoughts I'll share with you.

Don't use aluminum pop rivets, they're much to soft, and the origin of the problem in the first place. If using rivets, use 3/16" Monel or Stainless Steel.

Unless you want to completely disassemble the rail to clean underneath it, replace only one rivet at a time for ease of alignment and operation.

If using machine screws, #10-24 or #10-32 in stainless should be adequate.

One central issue is how to minimize the size of the rivet heads, screw heads, nuts, or rivet shanks inside and outside.

Small bumps under the rubber rail will hide easily, but inside you want to keep the fastener heads from sticking out and becoming meat hooks or ugly bumpkins.

I'd first try to back rivet the rail from the inside so only the heads of the rivets would show, but this would require some help from a second person and some exact length rivets that just barely make a strong bond with the aluminum molding rail on the outside. I'd also use a Monel or stainless washer to secure the fastener fully rather than just riveting them to the soft aluminum, providing the height of the completed package would fit neatly under the rubber insert. Technically, zinc chromate paste should be used at any dissimilar metal junction like this, but using a weather seal compound would take precedence and using both would be difficult.

If using machine screws, the nuts would have to go on the inside, and the screw length should be just long enough to set firmly into the nylon part of the NyLock nuts. The NyLocks are smooth enough that their finish should be acceptable as long as the ends of the screws don't protrude.

Be sure to seal the hole and whichever fastener you use up with a sealant, e.g., 3M 4200, 5200, or something equally waterproof and able to seal the shafts against the sides of the holes, and of course, the hollow openings of the rivet shafts if you use them.

Some experimentation will probably be necessary to find the optimum solution.

Another thought: the rubber rail frequently pops out when "kissing" the dock with a firm landing approach.

I'd consider embedding the rubber insert in the aluminum molding with a rubber sealant, perhaps like a windshield sealer, to prevent these "nuisance" dislodgings of the rubber insert.

Just some thoughts to sort through from the bottom of the Cracker Jack Box!

Joe.

[Dora~Jean]

Joe, appreciate your thoughts, always welcome. I haven't removed any of the rivets yet, but all will have to come out from about the windshield forward to the tip because the aluminum rail is bowing out considerably, it is too long to try and plant back against the hull. I figure I may have to cut off 1/8 to 1/4" at the end when it gets secured. I will do like you said, buy SS bolts (either 10/24 or 1/4") probably pan head or other small protruding head so that the rubber fits correctly. The bolts will protrude on the inside, but right under my windlass wiring, so it really won't be noticeable, especially if I paint them to match.

Maybe will get to it this weekend, not sure. I'll post my results.

[journey on]

Steve,

If you want to use 5200 it's $11 a 10oz. cartridge @ Home Depot. $5 for the tube. Unfortunately that's all of the 3M sealers they have. West Marine wants $20 for the cartridge.

Boris

[Dora~Jean]

Boris, thanks! Didn't even think to look at Home Depot. When I think of 3M's 5200, I immediately associate Worse Marine. Gee, I may have to use 5200 on more projects...

[jimcinfra]

Delta Belle also has this problem with her rub rail. Did the fixes work that were talked about in this thread?

Is it possible to use a screw (along with a washer) small enough to fit inside the rivet tube body to tighten down the rail from the outside? Would the aluminum body of the rivet be too soft to support the threads of a screw inside it?

Also, there seems to be a gap of 1/16" between the hull and the top sides behind the rub rail. Is this normal? I plan to fill with 5200 to seal.

Please let me know which fix worked best.

Thanks.

[cemiii]

The local Wal Mart carries 5200 and 4200 both somewhere in the $6 and change range for the squeeze tube size, they also carry 2 part marine epoxy that mixes gray in color @$3 something. All in their little boating dept.

Chris

[Sea Wolf]

[Dora~Jean]

Sorry, nothing to report, it moved 'down' on THE LIST, or I'm secretly still procrastinating...

[mikeporterinmd]

One idea I'd like to offer: Use #10 stainless screws with nyloc on the
inside. Don't worry about the length initially, but rather come back
later and use a Dremmel with a cutoff wheel to get the screws to the
exact length needed. Maybe even #8.

I'm going to have to do this too, since I have nearly 1/4" between the
rail and the hull. I suspect that the aluminum is actually too long, so
I may cut out a piece... we'll see.

Mike

[ghone]

Hi guys, with the change in ownership at CDory is there anyone who is aware if the treatment of the rubrail has been addressed, for new boats? It's an important addition.
On a similar topic does anyone know if the hulls and decks are still being joined in the "old" way while still in the mold? I've seen some old posts that lead me to think the joint had changed to a more common shoe box type.
The keeping of the new parts longer in the mold and then joining them is one reason my wife and I are awaiting a new 19. Ours is currently in the "sanding" stage. Can't wait to get out there.
George

[Sea Wolf]

[ghone]

Thanks for the heads up Joe.
George