trailer

[Sea Wolf]

Steve-

I like Ken's idea of the hitch pins and fold-down rails!

Depending on how the posts are made, you might just have to use hitch pins or cut the posts and add hinges and / or an overlapping section to the post to accomplish the fold-down idea.

Joe.

[SeaSpray]

I am not too sure about a fold down option but the overlapping section does sound like it could work and be simple. I would just need to cut the posts and add some type of coupler connection. One end would be bolted and the other could have a quick release pin.

I will have to think about this. I would still like to hear from those that do have just the posts with pvc tubes on them.

Thanks,
Steve

[Sea Wolf]

Steve-

You say you have trouble cleaning the scum line due to the rails.

Are you talking about the scum line at the waterline or ?

My rails fit up just a few inches below the rub rails, and the only scum line up there is the grease off the dock's rubber bumper guards.

Joe.

[SeaSpray]

Hi Joe,

My rails are positioned just about at the water line except up forward. I can not raise mine because they are at the top of the posts. The only way to clean this area is to squish a sponge between the boat and the rails.

When I recently waxed my boat I had to remove the rails. Not that much trouble but not the thing you want to do at a wash-down area after loading onto the trailer. If I could make them so that they would fold flat on top of the fenders then that would work.

The easiest solution would be to remove the rails and use the pvc pipes over the metal posts like ski boats use. Just not sure how much more trouble it would be to load in a strong side wind.

Steve

[Sea Wolf]

Steve-

That's quite a difference in rail height! See photos:


SeaSpray on Trailer.


Sea Wolf on trailer.

How about raising your rails with longer supports?

Joe.

[rogerbum]

I know someone recently posted a mod to their trailer in which the posts were held in with pins (as Ken suggested) and were easily removable. If I recall, the posts went down into square receivers that had a pin to hold them in. Rattling was eliminated with a thumbscrew. I've searched all over the site and couldn't find the post. It was posted within the last 2 months or so and there were some nice pictures of the work. I thought maybe Mike on Huda Thunkit was the guy (since he's made so many nice mod's to his boat). I went to look in his album but it appears to be missing. So, bottom line, somebody made a good mod to the trailer recently that is similar to what Ken described and there should be pictures of it someplace on the site.

[SeaSpray]

Joe,

A big difference in rail heights. One of the advantages of the height of mine is that you can use them as an additional step when getting on or off the boat when on the trailer. Probably not too good for those lag boats though.

Steve

[C-Gypsy]

Back to the original post... I strongly recommend a dual axle trailer. Price difference will not be great. Also check your local laws. In PA every axle has to have brakes.

I have a Magic Tilt dual axle trailer with surge disc brakes on both axles. It is a great setup. Trailered my boat from NC to PA today. Set the cruise on 70, cranked up some Jimmy Buffet and enjoyed the ride.

My Nor'Sea sits on a triple axle trailer. I confess that tight backing situations concern me about rolling a tire off the rim.

Best overall answer (in my opinion) is a dual axle trailer. If you blow a tire your day will not be ruined. Then again it crossed my mind today while driving North on I-95 that blowing a steering tire on my pickup would not be a good thing.

Al

[Sea Wolf]