trailer

[Captains Cat]

Seems like I heard of Pat Anderson having trouble with a lug nut! Pat, please tell us you're OK and this wasn't you!!

SOUTHWORTH, Washington: A man trying to loosen a stubborn lug nut blasted the wheel with a shotgun, injuring himself badly in both legs, sheriff's deputies said.

The 66-year-old man had been repairing a Lincoln Continental for two weeks at his home northwest of Southworth, about 10 miles (16 kilometers) southwest of Seattle, and had gotten all but one of the lug nuts off the right rear wheel by Saturday afternoon, Deputy Scott Wilson said.

"He's bound and determined to get that lug nut off," Wilson said.

From about arm's length, the man fired the shotgun at the wheel and was "peppered" in both legs with buckshot and debris, with some injuries as high as his chin, according to a sheriff's office report.

"Nobody else was there and he wasn't intoxicated," Wilson said.

The man was taken to Tacoma General Hospital with injuries Wilson described as severe but not life-threatening.

Charlie

[colobear]

Sheesh! How did Pat's lug nut get all the way down there??

[journey on]

What's the difference in price between a single and double axle trailer?

Boris

[Captains Cat]

Depends on the trailer. You can price them online.

Charlie

[journey on]

Where? I googled it but cant find any prices for a new national brand trailer.

Thanks, Boris

[Captains Cat]

Boris, the mfrs don't sell direct. Go to one of their websites and onward to one of their dealers. I think you'll find prices there.

Boris, my apologies, there aren't many with prices, I had a problem finding one just now.

Try the NADA USED TRAILER SITE

I think if you pick the 2007 model year, you can figure out the difference between the prices on the tandem vs single trailer. If you do go to a dealer site, I'm sure they'll send you a quote via e-mail.

One more time! It looks like the difference between a 2007 single axle trailer with surge brakes ($2365) and a 2007 dual axle trailer with surge brakes ($2800) is about $435. You can price other options on the NADA site. I would think the new ones would be just a little more than that, but not much.

Charlie

[Sea Wolf]

Boris-

I bought a triple axle aluminum trailer for my Sea Ray from a dealer in Ohio and had it shipped olut here for less than I could buy it or the equivalent locally!

I picked it up in Barstow, then towed it home to Redding. The transportation was $650. I paid $3995 for the trailer. At just under $5000, it was quite a bit cheaper than I could get one for here in California.

Here's the manufacturer followed by the dealer-

MFG:Venture Boat Trailers

DLR:Pirate Marine

Also:

There should be several boat trailer manufacturers down in the Central Valley of CA. See what they can do for you directly w/o a dealer's added profit.

Finally, boat trailers vary a lot in quality from brand to brand and model to model. Do your homework well before comitting to buy.

e.g.:

aluminum/stainless vs gaalvanized vs. painted steel

how many axles have brakes?

surge or electric over hydraulic? Back-up lockout available installed?

drum or disk? steel, alloy, or stainless?

leaf spring or torsion?

bunks or rollers?

winch: mechanical (one or two speed), electrical?

filament or LED lights?

well fitted side Guide-Ons available? Cost?"

tires: size, rims, width, load range, quality, warranty?

matching spare available?

manufacturer's warranty? Dealer back-up/service?

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Whatever you do, if the trailer comes with "S" hooks on the safety chains, replace them with something that LOCKS onto the trailer hitch and won't bounce off!!
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HTH!

Joe.

[journey on]

Joe and Charlie; Thanks for the answers, and no, I'm not looking for a new trailer, just trying to fix the ~!@#$ electric actuator on the one I got.

My point is: since one of the great benefits of a C-Dory is that it's trailerable, just get a stout trailer. If you're buying a new boat and new motor, the difference in price between a single and double axle trailer is in the noise. It's a lot less than rollers, galvanized, diskbrakes, etc. all of which I would consider essential. Just get the best trailer you can afford. It'l save you money and grief in the long run.

Boris

[Captains Cat]

Boris, try THIS

for electric brake parts. Actuators aren't expensive, probably easier/quicker than a "fix".

Charlie

[BaseCampAnne]

Another rookie experience: I purchased a new trailer with the 22' cruiser. Less than 24 hours later I am using dry storage and service is available at the Everett Marina. In addition I have to pay storage, and I want to sell the trailer with only 50 miles on it!

Driving it off the dealer's lot was very costly because now I am out 25% of the cost, including sales tax.

The trailer is a King KBT 4000, double axle, with rails. If anyone is thinking of purchasing a boat and wants a discounted trailer, please email me.

The local C-Brats have been super helpful to me and I would like to pass the good karma along.

BaseCampAnne Kenmore, WA

[SeaSpray]

I have a trailer question and I would like some opinions.

I have the side rails to keep the boat over the trailer when loading in the wind. they work well for that but are a pain when cleaning the scum line. Also the 2x6 rails are held to the posts with lag screws and I have had to replace these on both sides.

The question is do you loose much by removing the side rails and putting PVC pipe over the rails?

This would make it much easier to clean the boat and I would not have to mess with a side rail coming loose on a trip. I would still have something to keep the boat over the trailer in wind.

I know some people have this type of set-up. How well does it work? Has anyone had both types?

Thanks,
Steve

[Sea Wolf]

Steve-

Do I understand your question correctly?

"The question is do you loose much by removing the side rails and putting PVC pipe over the rails?"

Do you mean do you loose much by removing the 2 x 6 horizontal wooden side rails (that are at least 5/8 ths the length of the boat, and simply putting PVC pipe over the vertical support members" ?

If so, I think you'd be disappointed by loosing the side rails. Two sets of vertical PVC pipes will not nearly center the boat as well as the full set of rails.

Instead, I'd suggest you get rid of the lag bolts holding the rails to the vertical supports and replace them with carriage bolts.

It's no secret the lag bolts rot out and pull away, dropping the rails loose.

The carriage bolt, mounted with it's round head and locking washer from the inside, will replace the lag bolt and hold tight.

You may want to use a carriage bolt a bit larger in diameter than the lag bolt you're replacing for tightness.

Replace all the lag bolts with carriage bolts.

If they're really rotted out move the whole rail a few inches to get new wood or replace the rail entirely.

Re-cover the parts of the rails that have the carriage bolts with new carpet. The heads are low-profile, but still need to be covered.




Use the carriage bolt with a special washer that locks onto the square portion under the round head and has four spikes to lock down into the wood below. (I can't find a picture of these washers.) See your local hardware store.

Joe.

[SeaSpray]

Hi Joe,

I could replace the lag bolts with the carriage bolts and that would keep the rails on. it would not solve the problem of the rails being in the way when cleaning. Mine are located right where the scum line is when I pull out and it is hard to clean that area.

Another solution might be to make some kind of quick release for the brackets that hold the rails to the posts. Then I could remove the rails, clean the boat and replace them. I think it is a 1/2in bolt on each end. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Steve

[CAVU]

Steve,
You could replace the bolt which holds the guide board fitting with a hitch pin. This woud allow a quick removal of the entire side guide board.

[Zelpha]

Perhaps widen the space between posts. They are mainly to help during retrieval; I think.
Zelpha