Do it yourself electronics installation?

[matt_unique]

I have never installed electronics on a boat, but I'm reasonably capable of following directions, measure twice/drill once, etc.

How hard is it to install one of these integrated systems? I would be looking to mount a VHF antenna, radome on a pedastal mount, and GPS external antenna. I will also be mounting a tri-lens radar reflector but this could be mounted to a hand rail.

I assume the basic premise is drill, snake the wires, seal the bolts/holes, then connect to a power source with a fuse. Is it a matter of connecting the positive wire to the positive lead/power supply and negative wire to the negative lead/ground? Is there anything special to getting the systems calibrated once physically installed?

[Captains Cat]

Matt, most of us have done it. I installed a Raymarine Radar/Chartplotter, not integrated. An autopilot, A Garmin GPS, etc, etc. I'm an engineer and ham radio operator but the instructions that come with the systems are quite good and if you have a problem, you can come here! Look at what others have done and do like them!

Charlie

[drjohn71a]

Matt,

It is not too hard to do alot of the installation, but there are some areas of fine tuning and setup that, not checked or done by a certified technician, could come back to bite you.

I had an electronics installer put in my Raymarine E-80s and triple stations, radio, radar, weather, gps, depth, etc., BUT he was NOT Raymarine certified.


As such, I fought some problems over and over, including multiple blowing fuses on the gps and radio (usually in storms) until I had a local, Raymarine certified installer go over the system and re-wire some of the connections. He said some of the warranty work is void if you do not have a certified Raymarine tech review or install the units.

I am thinking you ought to visit with a local certified installer of the type unit you want and then arrange for you to run the wires, drill the holes, mount the hardware and displays, etc., per the manufacturer's instructions, then have a certified tech review it all. Maybe before and after. Most of it is not difficult nowdays.

John

[C-Hawk]

With todays technology- most every thing is "plug & play"
I installed all of the electronics on Fishtales myself- VHF, radar, GPS, sonar, auto trim tabs, windlass. The only item that was installed by someone else was the auto pilot, I wanted it done and did not have the time.

The only hard part was drilling the first hole in the new boat

Have fun

[Sneaks]

I agree with Roger. Once you get past the first hole, you're fine. I installed all my electronics on the Jenny B with zero problems. Complete C80 system including radar. The only part that had me pinching buttonholes in my skivvies was installing the radar radome and running the cable, which required shortening. A local Raymarine dealer shortened it for me 'cause I have "geezer shakes," but it still was a scary moment getting the end into the radome. Once done I could look back and say "Wow, that was easier than I thought."

On the other hand I have lots of electronics experience in the installation, maintenance and testing arena so I was definitely unafraid of the actual integration and setup. Marine electronics has come a long way since the '50's through the '80's. Plug and Play is wonderful!

Don

[mikeporterinmd]

I would try and test mount everything first and power it up. Look for
interference between the display and the VHF if they are within a few
feet of each other. In my limited experiene with GPS chartplotters, I
have found them to be rather noisey.

Mike

[Adeline]

I could never have someone install MY electronics. It is too subjective. I'm different than Tyboo Mike, or Bill, or Joe or anyone else. As I sit at the helm I want the various components located and positioned where they satisfy my personal preferences and complement my eyeshot. I also want to fully understand how they're all wired and interconnected so when there's a problem I can intelligently troubleshoot them. Besides, selecting and installing your goodies is a reflection of you as an individual. Your tastes and judgements. And besides, it's fun!!!

[journey on]

Well, I agree with Don on Sneaks. Everything just plugs together. This includes SSB, Radar, Depth Sounders, everything, including Flow Meters. And if you run into a problem, just call Don, uh, I mean Customer Service. For Marine products, I've always found the rep willing to give good advice. And I've asked some dumb questions, several times.

As for shortening Radar cables, I always thought that if you ever wanted to move the Radar, one might want to have a longer cable. So, I just coil up the cable and tuck it out of sight. That avoids the cost of buying a cable strecher.

Boris

[Doryman]

[Chivita]

Matt,

Lots of great advice above! I had someone else originally install some of my electronics and it did not work out well as they did the minimum and I had little idea of how it all interacted. I disconnected and re-wired everything. Now when I'm out in the rough stuff, I know exactly what goes where and how. I also drew schematics and added that to my operator’s notebook that I keep in the boat so someone else could figure it out as well in case I was incapacitated or not on the boat. The two failures I had prior to re-wiring my system came while I was trailering the boat on a rough road, the bumps caused things to come loose and in some real rough stuff when I again lost some connections due to the movement.

The toughest part of installing electronics for me is the connections. If you do not correctly adhere the connectors to the wire, or the connectors to the fuse box, or to the electronic gear, the movement of the boat and the dampness will get you. There are several posts on the site that discuss the positives and negatives of soldering connections, crimping, sealing etc. Les Lampman wrote a great couple paragraphs early on, I'm pretty sure they are still around. There are also several inexpensive books (12v Bible for Boats, Boat Owner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual) that are worth a read if you really want to know your stuff and have it last for a long time. Don't need to read the whole thing, just find the stuff you need, such as connectors. Spending a little time here will save you a lot of time out on the water if it's not done correctly.

The mechanical connection of the electronic device brackets to the boat is another area to make sure you have correct. Again the movement of the boat on and off the water will test you. Using nylock nuts (not sure the name, but they have plastic inside to help stop the nut from coming loose) or at the very least lock washers will help. Nothing like that $1000 GPS suddenly breaking loose and flying around the cabin to detract you from watching where that crazy jet skier is going or trying to recover from a tug's wake in a narrow channel.

Using those plastic wire clamps every few inches to a foot really helps prevent them from catching on someone's foot and getting ripped out. Again it's that dreaded movement monster. The clamps also give a professional look to the installation and nowadays you can get those clamps in every color imaginable thanks to all the kids and their fixed up mini-cars.

Although it is often tempting to use whatever wire happens to be available, once again trying to match ABYC standards (American Boat and Yacht Council) for color and correct gauge will leave you with wiring that is easier for others to understand, is safe and once again looks pro. Should you ever decide to sell the boat, a surveyor is going to notice if it is to ABYC or if it looks like it was Mickey Moused and note that on their form.

The above costs a bit more in the beginning but it pays back beyond the initial outlay when your out there in the wet stuff and you don't worry about every little jiggle or noise. You know that your electronics will hang in there so you can focus on what's in front of you.

I took a week or so to plan out my re-wire, had to learn that wiring a boat was different than wiring a '62 VW Bug and then went at it. Probably the best pay back of any of my modifications as I've never had an electrical failure or problem since and I'm prepared if I do. Furthermore, what I learned from the boat has greatly increased my wiring ability around the house and other vehicles.

[1TUBERIDER]

Hi all

I think it is important to study placement of display units, routing of wires, and placement of terminal gear.

A well layed out dash is a joy. Even with integrated units we tend to have several displays and radios. You want displays to be easy to view and easy to use, not placed where sunlight can cause problems, and not in the way of seeing.

Radios should be placed where others can operate without interfering with the helm. I don't like the cords hanging in my face either.

You may want to expand and add more displays. With the small dashes we have, it is difficult to have it all, but it is possible to place fish finder, integrated radar display unit in front of you. Radios I have placed on the center dash. I also have a display mounted on the top right entrance to the bow cabin. It is not in the way for the way I use the boat, but keeps display close to helm as I have ran out of dash.

I don't like a lot of holes so I mounted stained redwood over the dash and then mount my displays on the wood. The helm side is a multiple level shape to accomadate the shape of the dash. I have the roof rack and wiring for five antenna. All wiring is out of way and organized.

Check out the pictures in the albums as almost all types of installations are there. It is important to see what you will end up with and how it may integrate with future projects.

Its fun to install the additions and very satisfying to use. It also ain't bad when others complement you on your helm layout.

Jeff
1tuberider

[drjohn71a]

An important thing to consider is the height of the displays. Many use overhead mounts, and can adapt to that OK. However, in the world of bi-focals - which any of us could enter at any time - you get a crick in your neck from craning to get the bi-focal lens between your eye and the display.

I had all my displays at shoulder level or, preferably, below shoulder level and 'am very glad about it. That way, when you are looking straight ahead, just a slight eye movement down to the bi-focal lens area, brings your displays into clear focus without any need to change your head position.

Long hours at the helm will take a toll on the neck muscles if you have to crane to focus on the details.

John

[Doryman]

[mikeporterinmd]

West Marine carries some interesting arms with ball mounts on them. I had
considered mounting the GPS on one of these so I could move it around
to suit my purposes. In the end, I did not because I liked where I had mounted
the plotter and I had already drilled the mounting holes.

Wiring: Buy a top quality crimper or borrow one. They cost some money.
There are knock-offs. Are the knock-offs as good? I don't know.
I've never had a connection come apart that I've made with 16 gauge
or larger wire.

Use quality connectors that match the crimper you bought. There is a place
on Ebay that was selling Ancor wire and connectors in bulk. The battery
cable lugs they sold me are not Ancor, but they appear to be good quality.

Use tinned wire. The most common brand is Ancor, but there are others.

They rest, wire sizes, relationship to length and current, etc, can be found
in books.

Mike

[oldgrowth]

I agree with Dr John. Overhead displays are a pain in the neck.

Also one thing to consider when integrating several different brands of electronics is, if you have problems getting everything to work together and have to call technical service, each manufacturer will tend to blame the other brand for the problem. Because of this I generally will stick to one brand for my major electronics.

The only wire/cable I did not shorten in my instillation was my radar cable. I did not have the right tool to replace the end. I have enough extra cable coiled up to circle my boat. Someday I will shorten it. I have 30’ of cable and only need 6’.
________
Dave