Carpeting interior for moisture, heat, and sound control

[Lynn Marie]

We just spent the first week-end aboard the Lynn Marie after a winter project of installing carpet up forward in the bunk area. I've done a bunch of things to the boat that have been fun to do and neat to look at but none has had as much of an effect on the pure pleasure of using the boat that this one has.

I installed a layer of about 5/16" thick 100% polyester carpet hulliner/headliner up in the v-berth area. The carpet was installed over a layer of 1/4" closed cell foam on the hull sides and directly on the glass in the rest of the cabin. I didn't use foam on the deck areas since they already have a layer of 1/2" balsa. There are a set of pictures that can be viewed in the "Detail Photos" section of this "Cabin,Interior" thread. They were numbers 85 through 94 when I first posted this but should all still reference the Lynn Marie for many years if looked for.

My total time after several false starts and back sliding was less than a week-end to install all the materials and do the project once I had the patterns made. When I cut materials I always did them a few inches over and then trimmed to fit. I did this because the 3M adhesive I used was a contact type material that did allow for some movement for a few minutes. You need to apply glue to both surfaces then let sit for about 3 minutes, the adhesive then remains open for about 10 to 15 minutes. By that I mean it adheres on contact but can still be peeled off and repositioned. I mostly put on the first piece and rough trimmed then sprayed the area for the next area using a peace of cardboard held over the first layer to keep over spray off the finished sections. I then used a 6" wide putty knife as a guide to trim the overlap off with a wall paper trim knife.

When I applied the foam to the hull sides before installing foam over them I rough cut pieces that ran up and down from gunnel to bunk top. When I covered this area with carpet I ran it, the carpet, down onto the bunk top a couple of inches to cover the foam edge.

This is a project worth doing that seems to really cut down on the amount or ability for condensation to form on the interior. I don't know that it will make things such as interior air stay a lot warmer but if you don't bump your bum up against a cold damp hard fiberglass hull then it's not all bad. Our experience this week-end on chilly mornings was outstanding and I think it cuts noise as well.

E-mail if you have questions and I hope will let others be able to enjoy their boating more year around as we hope too.

Good luck, Tim

[Sea Wolf]

Tim- Nice work on the cabin liner! The first class quality of your work always shows!!! I'm sure you be impressed with the sound, humidity, and heat control afforded by it. The 27 ft Pilothouse that was for sale here recently had a full cabin liner in it. Greg also has done the same to Red Fox. This treatment is especially valuable for boats operated in very cold and humid conditions. Do you think you'll be lining the rest of the cabin?

Your thoughtful explanation and photo essay are also first class! This kind of presentation is much appreciated by all of us, and especially by those who want to take on such a project. This work should serve as an example of how to best report on a new endeavor that isn't self-explanatory. On behalf of all the other C-Brats---Thanks for the good work! Joe.

P.S.: I'll see you at the Shasta Lake Gathering in October!!!

[Mighty Bite]

Tim, great job on the insulating and carpeting of the berth area on the Lynn Marie. The pictures and the explanation of the steps involved were terrific and will be a huge help to anyone considering doing the same.

Thanks for posting the information and sharing the job with us.

I like it!

[Lynn Marie]

Thanks everyone for the kind words. The learning curve for this type of project for me has been how to put it here on the web in proper useful fashion rather than getting it on the boat.

As for the main cabin I do plan on doing at least the overhead but will wait till next winter to start that project. My thought at this time will be to pull the handrails and shelf, use the same type foam insulation except under the shelf edge and rail screw locations then apply the liner. May also use a slightly different color too. Just going to have to check whats available from the old color board.

Sea Wolf, Looking forward to that Shasta cruise and meeting some new C-Brats. Since it's in the warmth and sun, not to mention a lake instead of the ocean or Columbia River, Judy is even excited about the trip. See you there.

Tim

[Rock-C]

Tim
Nice job on the carpet. I think I have next winters project .

[B~C]

Boy folks, it is a nice job. Tim has that V-berth looking like something they would kick out at the factory...verrry nice. He was kind enough to hand off his patterns and I'm going to give it a try ( it'll probably end up looking like a factory job also...Bayliner factory ) hats off to Tim and Judy

[Butch]

Tim... nice job on the carpet. What do you think the chances are the carpet will tear away at the foam. I think what I mean is how strong is the 1/4" foam and if per chance something was to pull on the carpet what's the probability the foam will tear? I hope this makes sense.... Butch

[Lynn Marie]

Butch,

I don't know if it would tear but the nice part about being able to do it myself is that I'd just peel it all off then replace the carpet without the foam. What I used is pretty tough stuff and I think it will hold up really well.

Tim

[Butch]

That's Great! And, it solved the condensation issue. I have printed this thread and it is now safely stored in my hard copy file. At my age if I have it on paper somewhere I know it will be safe from the computer gremlins that are frequently conjurred up through PC pilot error. Thanks for the pictorial walk through and comprehensive bill of materials. Butch

[Larry H]

Hi all,

After going to SE Alaska and swimming in the condensation, I installed insulation and carpet in my 22 cruiser.

I used a closed cell foam called ethafoam(SP?) and glued it to the sides and overhead in the v-berth with contact adhesive. I then covered the sides with grey marine carpet. I also did the hull sides by the helm and under the dinette. Be sure to use a "CLOSED CELL FOAM" so it doesn't hold water. Also use a "MARINE" grade of carpeting for the same reason.

All this has lasted 12 years. None of the foam or carpet has pulled loose.

Contact adhesive comes in two types, solvent based and water based. I don't know which is worse, blowing yourself up with very flammable solvent type or poisoning yourself with the formaldehyde in the water based type. I started with solvent and switched to water based.

Be sure to wear the correct respirator for the glue that you are using.

The insulation has eliminated the 'swamp' in the v-berth and quieted the ride.

[Butch]

Sweet! Butch.

[Island Ranger]

At Last -

I'd like to send many Thanks to Tim for the V-berth hull liner carpet patterns as well as all the detailed instructions posted on the site. I was amazed how easy it was to procrastinate (that glue sure is smelly!)- but finally the pressure of getting Two Lucky Fish back in the water was enough motivation to finish.

Tim - Thanks Again!

Mac

[rogerbum]

[Island Ranger]

Hi Roger,

Tom already signed up - but I know Tim made several sets. He gave me this one at the Seattle Boat Show this year - I'm sure there must be some around....

mac

[Robbi]

I have a set that I am passing on to Mike of Mar-T at Jarrell cove. I have just traced the patterns and not cut them out yet. If you are coming to JC and want a copy, bring about 15 feet of butcher paper and trace them on the paper using one of the picnic tables. Some extra hands will make the job last about 10 minutes.

QUESTION:Has anyone covered the flat surface of the berth under the foam pads? Pros/cons?

Robbi