Wallas Start-up Problems

MOOSE · Posted: Sat Apr 10, 2004 2:28 pm Post subject: Wallas Start-up Problems

I just tried to start up the Wallas (125 DU) after its sitting all winter and could not get it to go; absolutely no response; no pilot light, no noise, nothin'. I've got new batteries, the fuse is ok, and there's plenty of volts at the unit itself. And Scan Marine is closed today. Does anybody have any ideas as to what the problem might be?
TX
Al

Captains Cat · Posted: Sat Apr 10, 2004 4:07 pm Post subject:

Moose, think all the experts are at Cathalmet, or wherever. Did a search on Wallas and problem and came up with an old post. You might do the same thing and see if one of these fixes it.

Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2003 11:06 pm Post subject: Wallas Fix

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I have a 2003 Cruiser with a Wallas that had only been used once. When I went to fire it up it refused. The plate would warm up but the red light would not come on. Then it would begin to blink and shut down. Fortunately the good people at Scan Marine diagnosed the problem over the phone. The T-switch was malfunctioning. (Thermo switch) It penetrates the heat box just like the ignitor. It was fairly easy to remove - two wires and a philips head screw. The tech told me they have had a bad batch in and around 2003.

Just a heads up in case any one else runs across this.

C-Sick

PS Sure is nice to have a cozy cabn
______________________________________

Charlie

Bess-C · Posted: Sat Apr 10, 2004 4:51 pm Post subject:

I had the same problem a couple of weeks ago. The fuse looked ok to me, but it was bad. There is a replacement fuse towards the back of the stove. Give it a try. I have not been able to find 2 amp fuses in my town. The smallest replacement fuse that I've been able to find is a 3 amp. Does anyone know if a 3 amp will cause a problem?
Lyle

Captains Cat · Posted: Sat Apr 10, 2004 5:37 pm Post subject:

Lyle, probably not. Most fuses installed are very conservative. They only come into play if there's a problem and if there's a dead short (worst case), you could put a 10 amp in there and it would blow if the wire didn't melt and catch on fire first Evil or Very Mad

. A three amp should be fine.

Charlie

KenMcC · Posted: Sat Apr 10, 2004 9:51 pm Post subject:

Hi, Moose,

The first thing I would check is whether you have juice at the on-off switch. What you have so-far described indicates that there is no power getting to the unit. A simple circuit tester on the two leads at the switch should tell you yay or nay.

If you have no power, then you gotta trace back to the batteries. (The unit should be directly wired to the batteries, bypassing any other circuits or switches).

If that's working OK, then the problem is probably with the stove. But I doubt it, especially if you are getting no light, no fuel pump sound, and no indicator light.

If fuses can be bad but not look blown, that may be something worth looking into. Not likely, but still worth looking into before shipping the unit off.

To me, yanking the unit and shipping it to Scan is the absolute last resort.

Although Karl at Scan Marine is a little hard to understand with his European accent, he is really easy to work with, and extremely willing to help. Don't hesitate to ask him to repeat himself - he knows he has a pretty heavy accent.

My recent experience with Karl when my fuel pump pooped out was excellent, and he walked me through a really sensible set of diagnostic and corrective steps. Pump is back up and running perfectly!

Ken

Rooster 27509 · Posted: Sat Apr 10, 2004 10:28 pm Post subject:

Al

I had the same problem with my stove so we only eat cold food now.

Just to put a smile on your face, Smile

what I did was call Scan Marine and they were very good at resolving the problem.
Problem was a temperature sensor and they repaired it at no charge.
Per Scan Marine " Quit a few of these faulty sensors were put on the market and will be replaced as the problem comes up."
I'm sure fuel and power supply checks out A-OK, right.

Good luck
Jim

MOOSE · Posted: Mon Apr 12, 2004 8:11 pm Post subject:

Well, the resolution, thankfully enough, was I called Karl this morning and he advised me to check the fuse on the underside of the unit itself. Silly me, I thought there was only one fuse on the thing. But sure enough, there was a diminutive 2 amp automotive-style fuse buried in the wiring that was indeed blown. He advised replacing it with a 4-5 amp as the 2, he said, was too small. I did and am now happily perking away and awaiting ice out on this blasted, still-frozen, northern MN lake!
TX
Al