2007 Alaska northern inland passage wilderness cruise

[lloyds]

Making a brown bear pose on a rock for photos is no small feat. Great photos. Sue is gonna love reading all this.

[Hunkydory]

Part 5

6-12-2007

Up very early 3:30 AM. Decided we had to try replacing video camera. We both get much enjoyment out of viewing our trips over and over during the cold Wyoming winters and sharing with friends and family. So it was out of Red Bluff Bay and across Chatham Strait around the south end of Admiralty Island going west to east on Frederick Sound. Many whales around the entrances to Pybus and Gambier Bays. Saw three whales breach at the same time and they weren’t during their bubble thing. They were spaced out a couple hundred feet apart and blew out of the water and then landed with a huge splash. Doubt if we will ever see that again. Even if we had the video camera we would have missed capturing the event. It was just to unexpected, but what a sight.

Saw another really amazing thing. A rock that changed into a dead whale, that came back to life just as we came up within a few feet of it. All whales we have previously seen disappear and reappear as they either cruise on top, sound or breach. This looked just like a rounded rock except the depth indicator said we were in 500 feet of water. We slowly approached thinking it must be a dead whale floating. Just as we got up along side it with the boat almost touching it let out a big blast of air, lunged forward and disappeared. I think the only time we’ve been more surprised by was our mis adventure on the Fords Terror rapids in 2004 . I was getting ready to take a photo with the digital camera and between the shock of it coming alive and the camera having to focus before it will work we missed the photo. Didn’t know whales slept, but I do now. Can’t think of anything else to explain the experience.

This isn’t that whale, but sure like the way the water is coming off this ones tail.

From Frederick Sound it was up Stephens Passage to Juneau. Saw these eagles and ice just north of the entrance to Holkum Bay.

video Eagles and Ice Stephens Passage


We fueled in Juneau then found a place in Harris Harbor to dock. Followed by a bus ride to Coscos. Found a small canon video camera that will have to do. Choices were limited. Riding the Juneau buses is something we would just as soon not repeat. After being in a slow boat for a couple of weeks it made for a white knuckle ride.
video Crossing the Mendenhall Bar Juneau to Auke Bay
We both were looking forward to showers ect in Juneau, but the harbor facilities were very poor, so with the tide being close decided to cross the Mendenhall Bar to Auke Bay. This short cut can save a lot of time and fuel, but isn’t advised to be tried by the more faint at heart or at least so suggested our Cruising Guide. It said many boats have been left there high and dry to be laughed at by the locals. Fortunately for us they had to save their laughter for some other unfortunate. Started with a 12.5 foot tide and came out the north side with 14.5 feet. Went slow due to poor water visibility and not knowing what cast offs may have been under the surface. The bar drys at 10 feet, so paid close attention to the markers. It at least had markers unlike Dry Pass, Chichagof Island. No comparison really due to a mistake here being just laughter. If we had screwed up in Dry Pass a bleacher full of laughter would have been welcome compared to the alternatives. Was using running lights by the time we docked at Auke Bay.

Owe a big apology to wallas. The electrical smoke we smelled was partially burned kerosene and stunk just about as bad. Seems all that was wrong with the wallas stove was low battery voltage.. On the way out of Red Bluff Bay decided to try it after topping off the batteries with the Honda generator while there. Worked just fine and what a relief. At least we now know that the back ups will keep us warm and brew coffee. Miles today 145. 969 miles total for trip.

6-13-2007

Again up at 3:30 AM to beat the forecast 20 knot winds on Stephens Passage. Decided to check out the Sanborn Canal and the tidal river to the salt water chuck in Port Houghton Inlet. Caught the tidal river on the upper end of the flood , but still had to wait for awhile midway in to go the rest of the way safely. Clear skies and mostly smooth water on the way down. Many seals and two black bears in the salt water lake. Nothing but bear hunters in Sanborn Canal, so after a three hour nap headed to Cape Fenshaw and anchored for night behind Whitney Island in Cleveland Passage. No wind, so nice calm anchorage. Miss the eagles, bears ect we have had around us at all the anchorages. 146 miles today. 1115 miles total for trip.

6-14-2007

Left Cleveland Passage anchorage at 6 AM then around Cape Fenshaw and southeast in Frederick Sound to LeConte Glacier. Lots of sunshine and light winds causing the blue ice in the icebergs to really show. Couldn’t get any closer than 3 miles to glacier not even in sight of it. Much more ice than last time in 2004 when we made it within 2 miles in the fog following the Empress of the North.
This is a photo of us following it across the bar in 2004


video Dodging ice trying for Laconte Glacier
Had some fun with the mokai around the icebergs and with the sun it made for a memorable sight.

Even got to look at the Hunkydory through an ice apple.

Two other boats were trying to reach the glacier and didn’t make it any further than us even with their iron or maybe aluminum hulls. Made us think and wonder how El and Bill along with Chris in the Rana Verde made it right up to the glacier last year.

Left the ice for Petersburg, fuel and walk around town. Gas was 3.60 a gallon and we averaged 3.6 mpg for the last 254 miles. Do about 2 mpg better if we spend more time putting around on one engine. Much more relaxing here today than in 2004, when we ordered and waited for computer ruined in Fords Terror rapids. Will spend the night tied to the dock in the small boat harbor. 87 miles today. 1202 total for trip

6-15-2007

Again up at 3:30AM to make smooth water run across Frederick Sound to south end of Admiralty Island. A sailboating couple from Juneau we had met in Red Bluff Bay had told us about a sea lion rookery on a little island off the West Brothers Islands. A couple hundrred sea lions make quite a racked. Spent a interesting hour watching, filming and listening.

video Sea Lions Brothers Islands Fredrick Sound

From the Brothers Islands which are 50 miles from Petersburg went the rest of the day, which was 41 miles at displacement speed on single motor to conserve fuel. Checked out Pybus Bay. Is beautiful, but there is a resort in Cannery Bay that has many boats coming and going through the whole Pybus Bay area. We anchored for a while in Sheldon Cove and went for a Mokai ride. Not much wildlife in area, so slowly cruised to Gambier Bay. Anchored for the night in Snug Harbor.
Snug Bay, Admiralty Island anchorage
video Exploring Gambier Bay Admiralty Island

Many eagles, geese, ducks ect in coves. Saw three brown bears. They were all colored similar. Almost black with some brown. Close to the color of a black bear but these were definitely grizzlies. The brown bears on Baranof, Jacobie and Chichagof Islands varied widely in their coloring from very light to almost black. Very few looked just alike.

Took a hour ride in mokai just before dark. Had a black porpoise come up very close along side. Was somewhat startling, but enjoyable. Can see why so many people like the kayaks with the close to water quite ride. 91 miles today 1293 total miles

6-16-2007

Woke up at 5 AM with strong northwest wind blowing and not so snug in Snug Harbor. Pulled anchor and went four miles northeast to a very small extremely protected Harbor. Had used it in 2004, so knew just where to go. Back to sleep for 3 hours to make up for restless night. Wind blowing 15 and 20 knots all day. Slow cruised to head of inlets. Found smooth water to anchor Hunkydory, then cruised in mokai . Seven bears and the usual other wildlife. Enjoyable slow day.
Relaxing in Gambier Bay anchorage

Back in same small inlet to anchor for tonight. Wind blowing very strong out now and we are tucked in on smooth water with a gentle swing on the hook. Clear blue skies today and temperature up to 69 degrees. Warmest day yet. Ran the Honda generator today as we slow cruised keeping the batteries full up. With the generator the charge coil being out on the starboard motor has turned out to not be a problem. 18 miles today 1301 total miles

[B~C]

wow, what a great adventure...and to think, no laptops where killed this year I wish I would have been up here ealier this summer and had a chance to chat with ya's

ken, currently assigned to duty in Pelican

[Hunkydory]

Part 6

6-17-2007

Another one of those amazing days we spent all the previous winter day dreaming about. Up early again to beat the wind in Stephens passage. Was still blowing hard with a nasty chop coming out of Gambier Bay, then smoothed out considerable going up Stephens Passage to Holkem Bay. Many whales at least a couple dozen spread out crossing entrance to Seymore Inlet. Up Endicott arm to entrance of Fords Terror through many more ice bergs than in 2004. We made it back to the site of our 2004 near disaster. Arrived on a low ebb tide very similar to when we took our wild ride. Anchored the Hunkydory in the northeast entrance nook and went to shore in the mokai. We were a little nervous leaving the Hunkydory due to ice bergs floating around in this nook.
This is the Ford Terror anchorage nook.
video Fords Terror the return

To shore with the mokai

Huge beautiful blue ice bergs grounded in the entrance

And this left stranded when the tide dropped.

We walked to where we could look into the out rushing rapids. Well they didn’t look as big as when we ran them in 2004, but big enough that I think we were very fortunate to only suffer computer and camera losses.

Jay standing in front of the rapids

This link is to a 3. 5 minute video taken in 2004 showing us in the Hunkydory entering these rapids
fords terror video
Took photos and video. When they calmed down enough just before low slack we went on in and lowest depth was 6 feet.

While the tide was low and near slack we continued into and out of the east arm of Fords Terror. Water very low and moving fairly fast with lots of seaweed. The description by Douglas-Hemingway was very accurate. Next went to the head of the west arm. More harlequin ducks here then anywhere we have been. Also a large school of finger lings that came by the boat and turned the water almost black. Watched the seals up very close around and under the boat having a feast.

While I was trying to download to computer from video camera the scenes of bear and kayakers a brown bear walked along the shore beside us crossing the steam under a waterfall.
Photo of bear with seal watching it.

The bear went in and out of the alders from the sedge grass and small river three times, while I maneuvered either the c-dory or mokai to try and photo or video him. When we left he was back out on the flat feeding.

This time we crossed the Fords Terror bar on a near high flooding tide with a smooth ride. Jo-Lee and I might add, I too much preferred it to our prior exit of this amazingly wonderful very remote place.

Then it was back down Endicott Inlet trying to get weather to check direction of winds for to nights anchorage. Choice was Sundum Cove, which has protection from south winds and Tracy Arm Cove which has better protection from north and west winds. Had to go all the way out of Holkum Bay to get radio reception. Tracy Arm Cove will do fine, but by this time the clouds which had been very low dropped right to the water.
There is an ice berg in this photo
video Fog and Ice holkham Bay Tracy Arm Cove

Came through the entrance to Tracy Arm with radar on and my eyes glued to radar and the chart plotter, while Jo-Lee had her head out the side window looking for ice bergs, bergy bits and other debris. It was displacement speed with the dense fog all the way into Tracy Arm Cove, where we found nine other boats all seen on radar long before they appeared out of the mist. Was hoping they were boats and not ice bergs, because the entrance to Holkham Bay and Tracy Arm Cove had many ice bergs in them. First time we used the radar this trip and sure glad we had it.
95 miles today 1396 total for the trip

[oldgrowth]

[Hunkydory]

[Hunkydory]

[thataway]

More great pictures, Jay. We usually went to Auke bay directly--our boat would have difficulty with the passage, both air and keel draft...
We did get permission to tie up to the cruise liner dock for one night, when we off loaded our visitors onto one of the cruise ships.

You really have me thinking about the Mokai Kayaks...not sure I want the drag of towing one all of the way from BC to AK. (assuming we get to go to AK next year!)

Thanks, Bob

[El and Bill]

Following your trip and enjoying every minute of the marvelous pictures and dialogue -- interesting to see Ford's Terror this trip compared with your 'plunge' on the last trip. Thanks again for the sharing --

[B~C]

great stories and pictures, quite an adventure fer sure. Ya, that's the lodge & ya, Pelican is a much more picturesque spot..maybe next summer we'll meet up.

[Hunkydory]

[doc]

Jay and Jolee, No wait, don't stop. Come back and get some more material to write about. We are all going to have withdrawl. Better yet, take us with you next time. When you come up again, plan a few down days around Juneau and we can put you up at the house, haul Hunky-Dory out for repairs or whatever.

[Pat Anderson]

Let's see, motor coil out, gas in the oil on one motor and a broken trailer...I would NOT have coped well with these things! I need AAA to change a flat! Great story, Jay, enjoyed every day and every photo!

[dotnmarty]

The photography is beautiful, the narrative is wonderful and your attitude-priceless. Thanks for sharing your experience and wisdom.

[Ashley Lynn]

Wow!

Great stories, pictures and that video was amazing.