2007 Alaska northern inland passage wilderness cruise

[Hunkydory]

[Hunkydory]

Thanks for all the comments. They are much appreciated. Just spent a couple hours doing another chapter, then lost it all, when it says this web site has expired. This computer thing sure can be frustrating. Have company coming who are going to be here for awhile, so it will probably be some time before I can get back to this.

Jay

[kevello@comcast.net]

Great, great reporting from The Great Land! So VERY glad you chose to share your tale and photos with us. I have been envisioning a trip of that nature for 20 years and after your
account (and buying a C-Dory this year) I feel it is closer to happening than ever. javascript:emoticon('')

Fair winds,
Kevin Costello
C-Puffin

[jlsparks]

WOW is all I can say, Just went thru the album and looked at all the pics. I can't wait to read the next chapter. I think the little boat could be in my future after seeing how well it worked out for you. Thanks again for sharing your trip.

Jim and Julie

[Hunkydory]

Part 3

West Chichagof Island wilderness coast near Mirror Harbor and behind small islands reducing swells. Jo-Lee at the helm and me in mokai taking photos



6-4-2007

Up at 3:30 AM to make the slack high tides out of the lakes.
This is the hazardous entry to Sister Lake
video Sister Lake-Black Bay-Otters and Mokai ride

Wind and rain during night and had backed off some before leaving. Decided to go up Ogden and Superior Passages to Black Bay again. Went the 24 miles at displacement speed except for the areas we needed to get through during slack water.

We are temporarily anchored in Black Bay right now and if we look out the boat windows can see 3 grizzly bears, 5 eagles, seals, otters and many geese and ducks. Jo-Lee and I have been slow cruising in the mokai after taking a nap. Saw a river otter catch a fish and eat it with in a few feet of us. Also quietly slipped up on the bears very close.

Mama bear getting a better view

We are thinking about doing a slow run to Portlock Harbor and checking out the coves there before making up our minds where to anchor for night. Black Bay is normally windy with poor anchorage.

From weather report looks like its either Wednesday morning or late Friday for windows to make open ocean crossing through rocky breaking water area. Those are the only times seas are supposed to be less than 10 feet. Locals out of Pelican and the Fishermen said not to attempt it at 10 feet or above. It was a least 10 feet when we came south and we would prefer not to do a repeat. Altogether in Black Bay saw 5 adult bears and a one cub. Went through Portlock Harbor on way to far end of Goulding Harbor where we anchored for the night. On way checked out Baker Cove. Saw one bear in Goulding Harbor.
36 miles today 502 total for the trip

6-5-2007

This day turned into the most amazing yet. After a very restful night started day with slow crusise to Dry Pass to check out during the low tide. Needed to check it before early morning run tomorrow just before high tide. Weather report is now calling for 8' seas today, so after checking Dry Pass went out Imperial Passage to see what those conditions looked and felt like. Didn’t like the way it looked or felt. Hope its better tomorrow. Report is calling for 15 knot winds and 7' seas tomorrow. On the way in spent some time up close with the sea otters.
Saw Hundreds of these cute little critters

Then a slow cruise back to Black Bay. Black Bay and Sister Lake are our two favorite places in this area and it didn’t disappoint us again today. All the wildlife was there in abundance. Several hours spent in the Mokai up close looking at bears etc.
Here I’m heading toward two bears in Mokai

Late afternoon headed toward the south side of Dry Pass again to anchor for the night. About 1.5 miles from anchorage, when passing through the narrow strait separating a small island at the entrance to Goulding Harbor from the mainland saw a large bear on the right side of the channel. Anchored the Hunkydory midchannel and got into the mokai to photograph the bear. Jo-Lee stayed in the Hunkydory and videoed me in close photographing the bear. The Hunkydory was approximately 100 yds from the bear and I came in much closer with the mokai. The bear reacted different than any other bears we have ever seen. It showed absolutely no fear of us only curiosity. It went through all kinds of antics while we watched and filmed.
Laying behind with head resting on log

video Yoogie Bear

Laying on a log asleep or at least pretending to

coming down toward me huffing and all stiff legged.

giving me the look

that hump is all muscle

looking at the kayakers camp

Yoogie starting on his way to visit the kayakers camp


video Yoogie Bear and the Kayakers
While this was going on 2 couples on kayaks paddled up and watched us interacting with the bear then set up camp across the channel on a small Island in a beautiful campspot directly across from the bear with us anchored in between. They were from Juneau and should have known better. It sure turned out to be an unwise decision. We had totally exhausted the batteries on both cameras and was running the video camera on the boat batteries. The bear kept looking or more like staring intently at the kayakers. Kinda like a cat looking at mice playing. They had completely set up there camp and had a fire going. The bear moved down the channel to a point that sticks out into the channel all the while staring at the couples across the channel. Jo-Lee and I commented to each other that it looked like the bear was wanting to swim the channel and go to the kayakers camp, but we really didn’t think it would. The next thing we knew it was in the water and swimming and the kayakers were yelling for help. I grabbed the shotgun and flare gun and jumped into the mokai to get in between the bear and the kayakers. There was a small island in the channel between the bear and the inland the kayakers were on. While racing the mokai in that direction and the bear still 20 or 20 feet from the small island, I fired a flare between the bear and the island. The bear didn’t slow a bit, so while it crawled onto the small inland I maneuvered the mokai into the channel between the little island the bear was on and the big island where the kayackers were camped. With the bear coming at me only 30 feet away I shot a slug into the rock beside it. Rock and slug fragments had to have peppered it and it jumped back over the small island going directly away from me, but then turned and circled back diving into the water on the right front side of the mokai less than ten feet away. I maneuvered in a circle to the left at the same time shot another slug into the water directly in front of his nose. This still had no effect and the bear continued in the direction of the kayakers camp. At the same time this was happening the kayakers were scrambling to there kayaks. When the bear hit the campers island I fired another flare, this time directly at it and it disappeared into the trees. I then went to the kayakers on the water. They were very shook as can be imagined especially having never experienced any bear problems before. There food was hanging in the trees and all there equipment, tents ect was spread out over a large area and needed to be gathered and packed before they could leave. I gave my flare gun to the women at the kayaks and stood quard over the men while they gathered there equipment and the women packed it in the kayaks. They were very thankful for my assistance. Knowing at the very least they would have been a long way from food and shelter if Jo-Lee and I had not just happened to be where we were at the right time for them. I know all of this would be awfully hard to believe, so I’m glad Jo-Lee was able to video most of all it from the Hunkydory. This was that one bear that is diffinately an exception to the rule and the reason I carry the shotgun along. The bear which we nicknamed Yoogie because He was differently not your average bear was totally intent on going where it wanted. I really don’t think he was intent on people mayhem, but rather human dispersal so he could collect the camp goodies, but mayhem may have resulted if he would have arrived during the night. The kayakers said this was there last trip with out a firearm. I have all the usual deterrents with me because I don’t want to kill a bear, but there is nothing like the security of those 3 in magnum slugs if really needed. I really didn’t get scared during this , but my heart rate did go up dramatically when I was quarding while they were packing in that thick rain forest. Man what a day—What a trip !!!
34 miles today 536 miles total for trip.

[Hunkydory]

Part 4

Good thing bad thing-----Went to put up to get out of the way the Garmin 276-C. Decided to try it one more time and it worked. Just hope it continues to. Bad news. The nobletech software is acting up. If I shut it off during night on start up it shuts back off saying drivers don’t match, when gps connects back up. Has taken as long as 3 hours to start working again. Also the tides and current section will only tell us the present tides and currents for the day. So am having to use the tide book and make estimations for crossings. Part of any cruise is adjusting and dealing with what can and will go wrong. How well we adjust will likely determine how successful this cruise turns out.

cabin front set up for cruise

cockpit set for cruise with generator running.

6-6-2007

After night anchored at south entrance to Dry Pass, Chichagof Island, a very short distance from yesterdays bear experience we were up at 3:30 AM to be ready for the high tide going through and out north end of Dry Pass to open ocean. Very foggy and difficult to see going through pass. With our checking out Dry Pass the day before and using the Douglass- Hemingway guide we make our way smoothly out. Shortly thereafter went right through a group of at least 6 grey whales.
video checking open ocean conditions & Dry Pass when dry
video Exiting Dry pass-- Fog and open ocean to Lisianski Straight


Very hard to film in the foggy bouncy conditions. Before again entering Lisianski Strait checked out Porkypine Bay which has a pretty waterfall at its head. Then in and out of Illian Bay to see Zhilo cove. During this time the fog increased and we lost rpm gauge and battery charge out of the starboard engine with the smell of electrical smoke. Wasn’t to worried because this same thing had happened to us in 2004 while going through Venn Passage to Prince Rupert, BC. After coming out of the fog going up Lisianski Strait stopped at a Tongas National Forest Service warming hut which was located in a very scenic setting.
Jay on the Hunkydory tied up to the warming hut dock

Tongas National Forest warming hut

video Bohemia shelter-Tongass National Forest

Started a fire in the hut stove and enjoyed the ambience for a couple hours. Then it was a slow speed run back to Pelican. Fueled, hot showers followed by trying to find replacement charging coil. No cell phone service here, but was able to purchase a pre-paid phone card to use at pay phones in harbor. No charging coil for a Honda in Alaska and over a week to get one her, so will do without. Will be using the Honda 2000 generator when stopped now to keep the batteries fully charged and will have to use ear to keep twin moters synchronized. During the 6 day outing on Chichagof Island west coast traveled 257 miles on 46.5 gallons of fuel for an average of 5.5 mpg. Still had 43 gallons left , so could have gone another over 200 miles for a total distance of almost 500 miles and that with towing the mokai. Fuel savings is just one of the dividends enjoyed while putting along. You are able to really enjoy and take in what this remote wilderness area has to offer. I might add the S1000 auto pilot also really made a difference in being able to use the binoculars and rest the arms in a safe way. Presently we are relaxing while tied to the dock. Its raining and the coast is supposed to have seas back up to 10 to 14 feet for the next few days, so we might be relaxing here for more time than we want to.
This is a photo of the Hunkydory tied up to the transient dock with tarp over generator running in the rain.

video Pelican-Alaska

Pelican Harbor

We had plenty of fuel and provisions to stay out longer, but with the poor weather forecast decided to come back to Pelican for now. We don’t mind and in fact enjoy the intricate narrow shallow channels and fast water passages, but are very leery of the open ocean and rocky areas with breaking seas all around. 26 miles today 562 total for trip
6-7-2007

Spent the day resting and visiting in Pelican. Enjoyed an hour or so talking to a fisherman working on his boat packing fish on ice to ship out by plane. He has a 25' converted sailboat built in l947 which had been set up to be trialered and had been used many years up and down the Oregon coast chasing the best fishing. He gave us some fish for dinner that night.
His boat

Some of his catch


Also met a couple who had just arrived in there 40' boat that He had built completely It was a real beauty. They toured us through the complete boat. He was most proud of the fact the boat could get 4 mpg.
His home built boat

Inside of boat. Jo-Lee was ready to move in.

In fact all the people we met in Pelican, those who live there and the visitors were friendly and generous. The harbor master gave us a paddle to replace the one we lost in the Black River, which runs into Black Bay. Lost the paddle while trying to video while in a rapid.

Remet the Capt and crew of the Clarena. They were back after a good catch, but losing a lot of rigging in the last storm. Went with them to the little brown bar and eatery. They wanted to see the video of the bear and Kayakers, so hooked it up to the big screen and it drew a crowd. Another fun day. Found out a 3 month boat pass for the Pelican small boat Harbor in summer for us would only be $120. I think if it works out we will spend some time here in the future. 0 miles today.

6-8-2007

Left Pelican 9AM with the same feeling as leaving a new found friend that you formed an instant and then more substantial liking for, hoping but not knowing if you will meet again. Down Lisianski Inlet toward Elfin Cove.
Outlet Lisianski Inlet looking north toward Taylor Glacier.

Tied up to the Elfin Cove transient dock with a lot of big brothers.

video Elfin Cove-Alaska
video Map of Cruise Routes
video 2nd Map of Cruise Routes from Elfin Cove to End of Cruise

Another extremely unique place with board walks going everywhere. Checked out the Eagle Resort where Ken will be working this summer. Wished we could have been able to meet up.

[Hunkydory]

Continuation of 6-8-2007

Jo-Lee finally said no when I suggested seeing if we could take the boat through this cross sound land mark.


video Elfin Cove to Dundas Bay
From Elfin Cove caught south and north Inian Passages at slack tide for cruise to Dundas Bay. Checked out where Dundas River enters bay. Another beautiful spot and would have liked to check out river with mokai, but poor anchorage for the Hundydory. Many seals, porpoises and whales when entering the bay. Further up the Bay it has the same rugged grandeur of most of this area. This is part of Glacier Bay National Park, but doesn’t have any boat restrictions. There is more glacier silt in the water and black bears instead of browns and just the way we prefer, no other boats.
Large black bear Dundas Bay

After coming back out of Dundas Bay headed east down the north side of icy straight and crossed opening to Glacier Bay. Many puffins in the area and the first we had seen on this trip. Passed the small town of Gustavus which services Glacier Bay then through icy passage back out to Icy Strait.
Sun going down on Icy Strait

Reached Swanson Harbor at the north junction of Icy Strait and Chatham Strait just before dark at 11PM. For nights anchorage. 119 miles today 681 total for trip

[Hunkydory]

6-9-2007

Woke up to beautiful clear blue skies and no wind. 15 knot winds forcast today. Blue skies no rain days have been rare events, so will enjoy. Headed to Tenakee Springs for fuel. Surprise fuel 3.39 lowest price of trip and beat Pelican by a dollar a gallon. When entering Tenakee Inlet saw a large whale with many barnacles breaching for a long time. At least an hour. Though at first it was breakers hitting the rocks ahead because the wind had come back up. When we got closer could see it was a whale and when it wasn’t breaching it was on its back slapping flippers. It breached once within a 100 feet of a small boat. We would have loved to have been that close. With the rough water I don’t think we were ever closer than 250 yds. Stayed and watched till the show was over and it was quite a performance. After tying up at the combination fuel and Alaska State Ferry Dock toured the town.
Tenakee where we docked

Tenakee Springs from the dock

Tenekee Springs is another little town in the midst of major changes. Little and big, old and new houses lining a dirt walkway just a few feet wide. The view from town is a beautiful inlet with the usual rugged snow covered peaks on the sky line. The wealthy have built gorgeous new homes in a wonderful setting, but there is no work and not enough kids to keep the school open. Last class had 5 graduates and the old mercantile store built and in business since the lat 1800's is probably going to closed if new owners can’t be found. This store contained most anything one might need living in a remote setting. From Tenakee springs crossed from the west to east side of Chatham Strait headed for Whitewater Cove on Admiralty Island. Another beautiful inlet with similar grassy head and small river feeding inlet. Tried to take mokai up river, but not enough water. Saw 7 brown bears and took short walk in their land. Wind had changed from north to south and raised to about 20 knots. Whitewater Bay didn’t have a anchorage we liked so crossed back over Chatham Strait to Warm Springs Bay. Wanted to try the hot springs but with now puouring rain decided to make for Red Bluff Bay. Arrived late and would have been difficult anchoring where we wanted to had we not been there before. On the way between Warm Springs and Red Bluff Baay had a small scare smoke started pouring from the wallas stove. Could also smell strong electrical burning smell. I think the burner fan burned up. Between that and the pouring rain we are a little down. The cabin keeps out the rain but will sure mis the dry heat. The wallas stove is hard to beat when its working, but this is far from our first trouble with it. For something that cost as much you would think it would be more dependable. As much as we love it when its working we could not recommend it to someone else, especially right now.
143 miles today 824 miles total for trip

6-10-2007

Our anchorage in Red Bluff Bay video Red Bluff Bay before loss of video camera

Well its midday and after a good nights rest, the rain stopping and the sun peeking through we are in much better spirits. In fact I can’t think of a place I’d rather be than where we are. Brought out the little propane buddy heater and Coleman stove, so we are warm, dry stomachs full and high on coffee. Took the mokai up the river running into the bay and then around the bay. Talked to a couple on a yacht after seeing there dingy is a 14' c-dory and they also had a mokai. Very interesting people up from Seattle. This is the first c-dory we have seen and its riding a yacht.


I pause to look up here and watch a bear very close ambling along eating sedge grass. About an hour ago a couple off a sailboat came in while Jo-Lee and I were in the mokai videoing a bear on shore not more than 25 yds away. They came over and we took turns taking photos of each other with the bear in the back ground.
The bear

In mokai with bear


They invited us over for a spaghetti dinner tonight at 05:30 and with our mainly bread, peanut butter and jelly with trailmix and cereal for a break it sounds pretty good. Actually what makes it really enjoyable is the kind of people you meet when out like this have always been entertaining and enjoyable to share time with. Excellent company and meal. The sail boat is the Liberty out Friday Harbor, Washington and we had seen them anchored in Porkypine Bay at 5AM after exiting the dry pass on our way back to Pelican. The day we headed north they headed south to Sitka where we originally planned to go. Was interesting that we both ended up in Red Bluff Bay departing in opposite directions.

After dinner when going from mokai to the Hunkydory lost our video camera. It was in my lap under my coat to protect from the rain and when I stood up there was a splash and it was gone. We were both in anguish much worse than the wallas quitting. Moped for a couple hours then I took off in the mokai and got some good photos of a bear close to shore stand on a rock. Well he ended up standing on a rock.





Losing the camera is a tough loss and we are considering a run to Juneau to replace.
0 miles today

6-11-2007

We were invited aboard the yacht, Rhapsody out of Seattle for coffee and cinnamon rolls. The owner’s Ron and Dianne were an enjoyable host and we spent 5 hours in pleasant interesting conversation sharing experience’s etc. He had retired from Boeing a few years before where a had worked as an engineer, high in there testing division. She a retired school teacher. They actually lived on this yacht 6 months out of the year and it was a beautiful second home.

They gave us a complete tour of there vessel. Anyone who knows us would absolutely not believe the social gad abouts we have become on this trip. It’s amazing how a smile, wave and sharing similar experiences can cut through the social barriers of normal living. Out here whether the boats are tiny like ours or 50' plus we all are on our own and pushing our individual and equipment limits. This makes the sharing of our different back grounds, which has led us to these remote settings even more enjoyable. Jo-Lee and I are now sitting in the Hunkydory. She reading a novel. Me catching up on the log. The little generator is humming to top off our batteries. A bear is ambling along close by on shore. There are four insight at the present time.

Red Bluff Bays combination of spectacular scenery and wildlife puts it on top of the list of places we would like to return to and see again. Fortunately its not one of the more difficult places to reach, which is why there is generally a yacht or to present. With all the extremely remote places we have visited so far we actually didn’t mind the company here. Having the mokai to safely poke around also contributed to being able to fully enjoy this and other wonderlands we’ve visited thus far. 0 miles today

[thataway]

Fantastic log and photos! Brings back a lot of memories for Marie and I.

Any hassle bringing the 12 guage and 3" mag slugs thru Customs in Canada? (We had our .44 mag sent to a fire arms dealer in Ketechican-we will take a 12 guage in the future, but the .44 was much easier to carry in the dinghy, since we had two large labs with us).

Great thinking and acting when the bear/kayakers interacted. We have always worried about this as we saw kayakers or small boat campers in AK. We did hear of one bear which tried to board a boat where there was fish being barbequed in the open.

Thanks!

[Hunkydory]

Bob and Marie

Thought it would bring back the memories and pleased to do so. Thought of you often when we were in the Chichagof Island west coast area, especially Black Bay. That's were you had told me you saw bears. Turned out to be one of our favorite places.

Yes the pistols are now another forbidden item in Canada. Fortunately I've never had a problem with the shotgun. Just pay the now $25 fee.

Thanks for the compliment on the bear interaction. I was glad it went the way it did and that bear jumping in the water less than 10 feet from me is a memory for life. Just showed the video to my kids last night.

Jay

[Texas Steve]

It was such a treat to read of your magnficent adventures in Alaska. It makes me happy I decided to purchase our little tug. Don't know if we would ever be as adventuresome as you, but still looking forward to wonderful adventures here in the Southland. Can't thank you enough!

Texas Steve

[Casey]

Jay - great reporting as always.

RE bears ... In an earlier chapter of life I spent six years at Katmai National Park (King Salmon, AK). The summer months were spent at Brooks Camp. Brooks Camp = Brown Bear City.

We (tried) to deep bears outside the developed areas (lodge, cabins, etc.).

At the time (1981-87) we used what the science-types termed aversive conditioning therapy." That involved a 12 gauge loaded with bird shot, a couple "cracker" shells, followed up with slugs (only used on one occasion in six years) loaded in the magazine.

When all the food storage and other procedures failed and a bear needed to be moved you'd get it's attention (shouting, arm motion, etc) then use a bird shot round aimed so only about a third of it hit the bears rump (rump only...thick coat, and doesn't do any damage). The bears were somewhat startled (they're not accustomed to something as measly as a human sort of kicking them in the ass...) and would begin to amble away. The next stage was to carefully lob a "cracker" shell a few feet behind the bear. As the cracker shell exploded, the bear sort of shifted into second gear and began moving-out smartly.

One caution: don't accidently lob the cracker shell in FRONT of a departing bear. They can reverse direction Very quickly! I wouldn't recommend that you demonstate this procedure for the local PETA chapter - some sensitivities might get fluffed-up.

Anyway - cracker shells are like an airborne M-80 firecracker (farmers often use them for crow control...) and can be very useful, non-lethal deterrents.

...just an idea.

Casey

[Hunkydory]

Casey

Sure wished I could tell a story like you. Sure had me laughing and every bit of it true to boot. Do remember from our time down at Lake Powell your past with the bears. I've had a few years also, but not like you.

I always carry a couple cracker shells with me. Have wondered what the border types would do if they noticed them. I always thought they would work best when a aggressive bears is moving in your direction in a open area. I should have used one of them on the bear before it made its swim. It spent at least a half hour building up to entering the water and up to that point a cracker probably would have sent it on its way. After it entered the water I don't think anything would have turned it around. We were having so much enjoyment watching it that we really didn't want to scare it away along with neither of us believed it would actually swim to a group of people sitting in front of a fire with us in the boat almost in between.

Jay

[El and Bill]

Jay and Jolee --
You held us transfixed to the computer enjoying your incredible pictures and story. Well done. Sure looking forward to seeing your video.
Your shots of Red Bluff brought back some marvelous memories. Thanks for sharing!!

[Hunkydory]

Quote

Jay and Jolee --
You held us transfixed to the computer enjoying your incredible pictures and story.


El and Bill

What a wonderful compliment coming from two who have about seen and done it all.

You two have accomplished the same thing for us, only for many many more hours. Very happy for once we could do something like this in return.

Have 8 hours of video, that I don't know when I'm going to have the time to edit. The welcome mat is always out for you two here. Would love to show you a preview.

Jay and Jo-Lee