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2007 Alaska northern inland passage wilderness cruise
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Hunkydory



Joined: 28 Mar 2005
Posts: 1925
City/Region: Cokeville, Wyoming
State or Province: WY
C-Dory Year: 2000
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Hunkydory
Photos: Hunkydory-Jay-and-Jolee
PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2007 1:56 pm    Post subject: 2007 Alaska northern inland passage wilderness cruise Reply with quote

The following write up of our adventure from Wyoming to Skagway, Alaska to explore the most remote areas of the northern inland passage and outer coast comes directly from the Hunkydory's log except for the road trip home. Due to its length I decided to write it here in parts. Only you can determine if the total is to long. For us the adventure was way to short.

PART 1

5-23-2007-----5-26-2007

Left home 10:30 am after working all night. Garmin 276-C GPS wouldn't work so several hours calling Garmin and other places to find a replacement. Only place to buy is Juneau, AL, so plan on buying one there for $700. Night at reststop 30 miles from Missoula, Mt. 450 miles the 1st day. Snowing and snow on road from Canada border to almost Radium Hot Springs. Saw several severe wrecks. By road saw many big horn sheep, 3 black bears, 3 grizzly bears, 3 moose and many elk and deer.

Passing through ice parkway Alberta, Canada between Jasper and Baniff

Alaska hwy boat protection set up

Night along road 20 miles from Muskeg, Alberta on hwy 40 between Jasper and Grand Cashe. Grand Cashe has one of the most strikingly beautiful settings we've ever seen for a town. 693 miles today. 17 degrees this morning. Coldest night ever spent on the boat. Stayed warm without running heater during the night. During the day saw cariboo, moose and stone sheep rams. Aspens just starting to leaf out. Some are still bare others are full leafed. Many mosquitoes at night spot just passed Stone Mt. Provincial Park. Only disappointment is oil boom has radically changed Canada from Vally View to Ft Nelson. Towns are all growing and wouldn't recognize them from trip in 2000. Many big trucks going to fast on winding road between Ft Nelson and Watson Lake. Saw 6 blacks bears today.


Over white pass and finally into Alaska early afternoon

Took us about 5 hours of steady work to get boat ready and launched. This is where we stored the pickup and trailer in Skagway for $50 while on the water

Weather doesn't look good for next week. High winds and rain for Lynn Canal with Gale on coast with 15 to 20 foot waves. Will hope for improvement.

5-27-2007
video-Skagway to Haines
With worse storms forecasted later in week for Elfin Cove and Pelican decided to see if we could make haines or further today even with the 30 knot winds forecasted between Skagway and Haines. Took several hours to make the 13 miles to Haines at 4 mph max speed. Stopped and rested in Haines then tried for Boat Harbor down the Lynn Canal. Not to bad the 1st 8 miles even made it past the narrowest part of the Lynn Canal where the winds funnel down and it should have been the worst, but shorty after that it got so bad we had to turn around and go back to Haines. Was even worse with the following seas. With our heavy load, 93 gallons of gas plus water and other supplies and towing the mokai we were the heaviest we have ever been. Was somewhat nip and tuck for a while and Haines though always appreciated for its beautiful setting never looked so good. The Mokai came through wonderfully. At times it was airborne and other times it would totally disappear behind what looked like a wall of water trying to come up and over our Stearn. The weather forcast is predicting several more days like this so tucked into the Haines small boat harbor and planned on staying a while.

33 miles today.

5-28-2007

Slept in to 7 AM. Winds had blown hard most of the night. Every time we woke up it was singing in the fishing boat mast close by, so was really surprised to to find the winds down to 15 knots in the morning. Decided to make a try for Juneau. Winds were supposed to pickup again in afternoon. the closer to Juneau the better the conditions. Fueled in Juneau and decided against spending $700 on a new garmin GPS. We have the small lowrance gps that sends signal to computer with the nobletech navigation software and a small small garmin E map gps. Had bought the garmin 276-C and had blue charts and had routes downloaded on it to back up the computer. After the Fords Terror incident in 2004 liked the idea of even more back up.

With now gale force winds predicted to hit the Pelican area the next day decided to see how far we could get today. Smooth water to the Glacier Bay Inlet on Icy Strait, there it got pretty rough untill we got on the south side of Lemesurier Island. Many whales along the way. Saw at least 20. Many very close with us just trying to stay on route. Was concerned about South Inian pass where the currents between Icy Strait and Cross Sound can be as high as 14 mph. That into a oncoming wind and swell could really be bad. Worked out where we caught the start of the flood running with wind and swell so had smooth passage. A little unnerving to us was the swell hitting the rocks close by as we exited Inian Passage to Cross Sound. It was just a couple of miles from there to Elfin Cove. Elfin Cove was every bit as picturesque as we imagined. With the weather holding and the Gale predicted for the night decided to not stop for night but to head to Pelican or if not enough time to stop st Soapstone Cove at the entrance to Lisianski Inlet. Checked out Soapstone Cove. Decided we would just as soon not spend 3 days there if storm was as bad as forecast, so continued on to Pelican and arrive there after dark. Which is very late and made for a long however enjoyable day.

180 miles today 213 total trip miles

5-29-2007

Rained hard all night, but not much wind in Pelican Harbor. In morning met 2 couples on different sailboats who had come through Inian Pass at the ebb tide just before us and they said it was really bad. The couple on the smaller boat a 25 footer said they were terrified and though planning on making a similar trip as us from Pelican to Sitka along the outside of Chichagof Island, they weren't to sure they would continue especially with the 15 to 20 foot seas now predicted over the next few days in that area. Again we woke up to much better than forecast conditions , so after paying the Harbor Master and checking out the town, which is a really unique old time fishing village built on stilts and boardwalks everywhere. Only 15 students in the school. They need at least 10 for the State to keep the school open. Back to the better than expected conditions at present, though gale is supposed to still be coming.

Early afternoon with light wind and heavy rain decided to check out the head of Lisianske Inlet. Found it to be a wonderland of bears, eagles, otters and dear with beautiful valley and small river surrounded by majestic snow covered mountains.

Up the Lisianski River in Mokai

Saw 11 different grizzly bears. Anchored the boat and explored up the river with the mokai just like I imagined in my day dreams before the trip.

For once the dreams turned into reality. It was truly a magical day and one we will never forget.. If the rest of this trip equals today then we are really on a trip of a lifetime. All of this on a day we were expecting nothing but a relaxing and resting day in Pelican.

24 miles today 237 total miles on trip

_________________
Jay and Jolee 2000 22 CD cruiser Hunkydory
I will not waste my days in trying to prolong them------Jack London
https://share.delorme.com/JuliusByers


Last edited by Hunkydory on Sat Nov 24, 2007 6:13 pm; edited 5 times in total
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nomadcruiser53



Joined: 10 Jul 2007
Posts: 57
City/Region: Whitecourt
State or Province: AB
C-Dory Year: 2001
Vessel Name: Atlas Acadia 25
PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2007 4:40 pm    Post subject: Alaska Reply with quote

Thanks for sharing. Looks like a fabulous trip.
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Dave B.
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El and Bill



Joined: 08 Nov 2003
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City/Region: Lakewood, CO
State or Province: CO
C-Dory Year: 2000
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Halcyon
Photos: Halcyon
PostPosted: Mon Jul 16, 2007 11:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jay and Jolee --
thanks for sharing -- looking forward to the continuation.

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El and Bill (former live-aboards)
Halcyon 2000 CD 22 Bought 2000 Sold 2012
http://cruisingamerica-halcyondays.com/
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K7MXE



Joined: 03 Nov 2006
Posts: 151
City/Region: Eatonville
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2006
C-Dory Model: R-21 EC Tug
Vessel Name: Lois H
Photos: Lois H
PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 7:11 am    Post subject: Northwinds Reply with quote

Thanks for sharing.

Make sure you stop and get a "Skagway home of the North Wind"
bumper sticker. I had one on my sailboat and was quite proud of it.
I got mine at the gas station. Be careful up there.

Have fun, Bob Heselberg Eatonville Wa
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Sea Wolf



Joined: 01 Nov 2003
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City/Region: Redding
State or Province: CA
C-Dory Year: 1987
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Sea Wolf
Photos: Sea Wolf
PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 7:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jay and Jolee-

What a great adventure story and beautiful photos!

I'll defininitely be looking forward to more installments!

Thanks for sharing your expedition with all the C-Brats!

Joe. Thumbs Up Rainbow

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Sea Wolf, C-Brat #31
Lake Shasta, California

"Most of my money I spent on boats and women. The rest I squandered'. " -Annonymous
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ffheap



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 7:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for sharing. Great pictures. Wonderful adventure.

Fred

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Pat Anderson



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 8021
City/Region: Birch Bay, WA
State or Province: WA
C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Daydream
Photos: Daydream and Crabby Lou
PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 8:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, then! Anxious to hear the rest of this story!
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DAYDREAM - CD25 Cruiser
CRABBY LOU - CD16 Angler
Pat & Patty Anderson, and Baxter! C-Brat # 62!
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Hunkydory



Joined: 28 Mar 2005
Posts: 1925
City/Region: Cokeville, Wyoming
State or Province: WY
C-Dory Year: 2000
C-Dory Model: 22 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Hunkydory
Photos: Hunkydory-Jay-and-Jolee
PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 2:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

PART 2

5-30-2007

Decided to make a slow run on one motor at 6 mph out Lisianski Strait to outlet to ocean and on way stopped and checked out Stag Bay. The two couples and sailboats were there waiting on ocean conditions to improve.. They asked us to call them on VFH radio on way back and let them know what the sea is like now. We went down the strait on a flood tide and about a mile from the outlet conditions were already poor. Large swells with wind waves. Tide was changing to slack and we didn't want to come back in these conditions on a ebb tide, so it was about face and a full retreat back up the strait. Looks like we are going to be in Pelican for awhile longer. 42 miles today 279 total for trip

5-31-2007

Back up Lisianski Inlet to check out the bears and take a ride up the river in the mokai. About two miles from the head of the Inlet saw two grizzly bears with a guy about a 100 yards from them taking photographs. His RIB was pulled up on shore, so so we brought the Hunkydory in and I got out and walked up to Him to video the bears while HeHe took photos of them. He didn't have any bear spray, a gun or anything and was a little nervous as He should have been, but I could tell He was determined to continue. I knew just how He felt, because I have taken this kind of chance to do the same thing in the past. We talked a bit about past experiences. His name was Tony and was from Port Townsend, Wash. and was working on a fishing boat out of Pelican. The same weather system that was stopping us had his boat laid up too. There fishing grounds are about 80 miles out in the Pacific off Cape Spencer which is the north outlet of Cross Sound. He wanted to stay there and film these bears longer than us, so I gave Him one of our flare guns. They make an excellent bear repellent in wet conditions. Jo-Lee and I went on up to the head of the Inlet where there were 7 more bears in view. 2 sows and a total of 5 cubs. A short while later Tony showed up and we shared a cup of coffee and watched a mink run around close to the boat. He was cold from riding in the rib so I think the coffee really hit the spot. We walked out together to video and take photos of the bears. This is the place Tony met back up with us.

video Meeting the fisherman-shallow water and standing bears

They were very skittish. At one time there was four of them standing up looking at us. They looked just like a bunch of overgrown prairie dogs. Before He left Tony told us His boats Captain knew the Mirror Harbor south area really well having fished this area since l968 and we ought to look Him up when we returned to Pelican. After He left Jo-Lee and I took the mokai up the river feeding Lisianski Inlet and saw several more bears, another mink, river otters and of course the usual eagles, geese and other birds. We are having a fantastic time being stuck by weather from what we had previously planned.

Went to see the Capt and crew of the fishing boat Clarena when we returned to Pelican. He cautioned us to wait for the weather to improve before going out. We were invited to a fish dinner on board there boat that evening. Went and had a great time and meal. The Captain who had immigrated to the US from Norway when He was 13 had some good stories and personal experiences to share. Jo-Lee and I had never been on a commercial fishing boat and this sure was a good first.

There is no ice available to buy here, but the cannery gave us ice with a smile. From the Harbormaster on the people have been great and have made this weather waiting experience an unusually good memorable time. What a way to spend my 59th birthday. 24 miles today 303 for trip

6-1-2007

Left Pelican at 7 AM to again check out Lisianski Strait outlet. Supposed to be large swells with 15 to 20 knot wind and clear sky. Has been cloudy and rainy everyday, so looking forward to sunshine. Mid way out Lisianski Strait saw a bear. I got into Mokai and in very close to the bear. Jo-Lee videoed from the Hunkydory. Sea conditions were better than last time so decided to try for Lumber Cove about 2 miles down coast. Liked Lumber Cove but not a good place to stay under another approaching gale, so decided to make for Mirror Harbor. Had to cross area that was open to the ocean. Made for an exciting ride. A little to exciting for enjoyment.

The open to Pacific places we have crossed and will continue to cross between harbors or passages in this area have shallow water reefs and rocks extending out at least 2 miles from shore and can make boating extremely hazordous especially in limited visability and rough sea conditions. We would not transit this area without electronic charts and gps. Even with these aids our level of risk acceptance had to be raised another notch.

Tide wasn't right for entering Mirror Harbor which is open to ocean and has a lot of sea weed in the entrance. This a photo of us exiting Mirror Harbor outer entrance.

video Entering and Exiting Mirror Harbor-West Chichagof wilderness

So spent 2.5 hours anchored in the lee of a small island to wait for tide. Spent the time looking at seals and sea otter on the Mokai. No problem entering Mirror Harbor other than charts didn't match with the gps and what was actual route. Had to back up for one rock and detour for seaweed all in very narrow .5 mile entrance. Photo of Mirror Harbor dogleg.

Mirror Harbor is very protected with a maze of surrounding sloughs that change with the tide. A lot of fun exploring with the mokai. This is our Mirror Harbor anchorage. As you can see its aptly named.


video White Sulphur Hot Springs-Bertha Bay
Jo-Lee and I went in the mokai about a mile to the start of the one mile walk to White Sulfur Springs. When looking the area over earlier in the mokai saw a large bear very close to the start of walking point. This is the start of waking point.

Much scat and other bear sign on trail. Beautiful trail that meandered up and down through the rain forest. a father and son had arrived at the springs just before us by kayak. They were on a trip from Sitka to Hoonah and were having a wonderful time for the past two weeks. The son was enjoying the large swells and of course the father was more Leary. White Sulfur Springs even exceeded our expectations and the Douglas-Hemingway cruising guide review and their review was very high. Words cannot convey this beautiful, remote setting overlooking Bertha Bay with the sound of distant breakers and the combination of trees, rocks, al little forest service cabin, fire pit and the spring one enclosed and the other open sitting in the middle of this setting. Photo of inside the enclosed spring.

This day alone has more than made all the planning and fears in such a trip worthwhile.

The father doing the kayaking was the only person I've ever met who had also backpacked over Rampart Pass in a extreme remote area of Wyoming that I too had been over on sheep hunts and once with my two sons backpacking. He had been there with is twin daughters. Among many of the great things about a trip like this the unique people you meet and share experiences with along the way.

Had the E map gps on the mokai not very well attached where the garmin gps normally goes. When we came back from White Sulfur Springs Jo-Lee hit it while getting back on the Hunkydory, so that's something we are leaving in the anchorage. Today 45 Miles Total for trip 348

6-2-2007

Up at 7 AM and out Mirror Harbor on a low flood tide close to slack with no problems making it through the narrow dogleg in the inner entrance. Several grey whales in the 5 mile ocean you had to cross to enter Imperial Passage which leads to Ogden Passage, which is a narrow winding smooth water route where we saw more than a hundred sea otters.

Sea conditions in this open ocean stretch was much worse than yesterday and by far the worst we have ever experienced. Got a real taste of the capabilities of a 22' c-dory. It had a similar feel to being on Yellowstone Lake on a canoe during a thunderstorm. Majority of remainder of day spent on one motor at between 5 and 6 mph. Checked out Dickerson and Black Bay. In Black Bay saw 2 brown bears and took the mokai a couple miles up the Black River. Temporary anchorage Black Bay

video Black Bay & River Chichagof Wilderness

Into Klag Bay through Elbow Passage then to Anna and Sister Lakes which are so remote and passages narrow and fast that the Douglas- Hemingway Cruise Guides states "they are remote and poorly surveyed and the passage from Anna to Sister Lake has extremely dangerous currents on ebb tides and they had no local knowledge to add about this intriguing area." We entered Elbow Passage and the passes to Anna and Sister Lakes on a high flood tide. They were not fowl like the entrance to Mirror Harbor, the currents were not bad or dangerous except for the entrance to Sister Lake. Many small whirlpools. Would not attempt it again except at slack tide. Came out on a slack low tide with no problems. Saw 6 bears around Sister Lake. One was a Mama with very young cubs. video Baby BearsWatched them close up from the boat for a while. Very entertaining. They were end over end and intent on mauling each other.

In the process of maneuvering out of a small inlet where we were filming a very large bear we left some bottom paint and a little blue on the top of a rock.

video Sister Lake hit rock by big bear


This is the bear we were watching

This a view back from checking bear tracks toward where we hit rock

For a moment or two thought we had made another big time mistake. The tide was up and at first thought we might be stuck.

The view looking into the south west inlet of Sister Lake added to by 2 more large bears was again beyond words.

This Sister Lake area is the place I wanted to see the most in the planning for this trip and it beat my expectations in every way. we anchored for the night in twilight in Klag Bay. Say a total of 9 bears today. ANOTHER WHAT A DAY!!! 62 miles today 412 total for trip

6-3-2007

Up and out Elbow Passage and down to Ford Arm, Khaz Bay which one arm is only 300 yards from Sister Lake. Ruins of old cannery there. Saw and talked to a couple in a 30' aluminum boat. They were up from Sitka and were planning on returning today to beat another approaching gale. This is where we went to shore on Ford arm.
video Whitewater Cove-Ford Arm-Chichagof Wilderness]

This is going to shore

We then went on down to Waterfall Cove, Khaz Bay. It has a 500' waterfall about a mile inland. This whole area is truly a wonderland. Photo of Waterfall Cove

We are half way between Pelican and Sitka and not much to see between here and Sitka except open ocean and boat traffic, so we decided to keep exploring the bays and rivers toward the north and then fuel again in Pelican. Have to look for a anchorage for the next gale coming through. Supposed to be 14 foot + seas again from Cape Edgecumbe to Cape Fairweather and that's our area. Decided to hole up in Sister Lake tonight, so back through the narrow passes at slack water. Saw 5 more bears while looking for the right spot to drop the hook. Have been out 3 days from Pelican and still have 60 gal of fuel left. Been getting a minimum of 5 mpg with the mostly one motor displacement speed cruising. This extends our range with 90 gal to a max of 450 miles. Have only seen 2 boats since leaving Pelican.

This really is an extreme wilderness area and very few people see its wonders. A lot of people help to preserve these areas, but few ever see them and that makes it all the better for the ones that do. The day before leaving Pelican was my 59 birthday and today is our 39th anniversary. Neither of us could think of a better place to be then where we are. 54 miles today 466 total miles on trip


Last edited by Hunkydory on Sat Nov 24, 2007 6:37 pm; edited 2 times in total
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doc



Joined: 03 Jul 2005
Posts: 261
City/Region: Auke Bay
State or Province: AK
C-Dory Year: 2006
Vessel Name: Blue Moon
Photos: C-Alaska
PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 4:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Jay and Jolee, What a treat to see the great photos and text to accentuate the stories you told us when you were in Juneau. It was sure nice to see your faces as you told us some of your stories in person. You got Colleen more interested in venturing out further when we can find the time and weather too. We are looking forward to more photos and travelogue.
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Steve and Colleen Torrence
Juneau, Alaska
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Pat Anderson



Joined: 02 Nov 2003
Posts: 8021
City/Region: Birch Bay, WA
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C-Dory Year: 2005
C-Dory Model: 25 Cruiser
Vessel Name: Daydream
Photos: Daydream and Crabby Lou
PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 6:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow, sounds like you are lucky to be back to write the tale! This is territory where "one big mistake" could be quite costly!
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oldgrowth



Joined: 27 Jun 2005
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 7:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jay & Jolee great travel log and just outstanding photography.

Every time I see or read one of your posts about your adventures, it makes me want to follow in your footsteps.

Thank You

________
Dave
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El and Bill



Joined: 08 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 7:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jay and Jolee -- Great photos and exciting adventure and story -- thanks. Felt like we were with you through those tight spots. Good on ya!
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El and Bill



Joined: 08 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 7:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jay and Jolee --

You two had a great adventure -- well-researched before hand and well-executed. thanks for sharing it with 'your family.'


Last edited by El and Bill on Wed Jul 18, 2007 8:33 am; edited 1 time in total
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johnf



Joined: 12 Jan 2005
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 8:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riveting!!! Couldn't stop reading the posts...

Really appreciate you sharing this truly grand adventure with us all. Admire you both for "making it happen"!

Wishing a wonderful and safe journey! Hope to meet you someday.

John

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Sea Wolf



Joined: 01 Nov 2003
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 18, 2007 2:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jay and Jolee-

It's great that you can post your adventures almost daily as they happen.

How are you linking your computer out from the remote areas?

Joe.


Last edited by Sea Wolf on Wed Jul 18, 2007 2:20 pm; edited 1 time in total
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